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Published: November 28th 2010
Beaufort SC
We now have been to both Beaufort's - SC and NC. These swings are in SC and were very invitingNovember 17 – November 26, 2010
Happy Thanksgiving
As mentioned in the last blog entry we explored Beaufort, SC which was also an interesting town to explore. We have really enjoyed taking the time to walk the streets of the various towns we stop in and learn more of the history of the area and as always meet helpful people along the way. After leaving Beaufort SC we bypassed stopping in the Hilton Head area as we had been there a few times to visit our friends Joe and Meredith. Instead we moved on past this area and anchored off the Doboy Sound in the Duplin River. This was another wonderful anchorage – we even got a chance to stop quickly at a seafood shop (where the shrimp boats come in) and get another pound of fresh shrimp. Thank goodness for the numerous cookbooks that we brought along as we are trying some new recipes with the fresh shrimp we are able to find.
We have been enjoying the scenery while traveling through Georgia. We find that people either hate it or love it and we are of the latter group. The ICW meanders through the grasslands of the
The Beaufort SC visitor center
This looked like a fort, but it was actually an ammunition armory in the past but is now the Beaufort SC visitor center savannah to the point that to travel a total of a few miles as the crow flies may actual be 5 times that length due to the numerous twist and turns the waterway takes. The number of boats that we see now in Georgia has diminished as many do not like this part of the trip south and jump “outside” to the ocean to bypass Georgia. We had been tempted a couple of times as it would be nice to be a sailboat again, but in looking back we would not want to miss this part of the trip. We are also learning more about the history of this area through our various stops – Savannah and Fort Frederica.
We were able to take public transportation into Savannah from Isle of Hope (wouldn’t that be a nice place to have as your address?!) and then hopped onto a sightseeing trolley that provided us with a great overview of the city and the history of the town through its homes and historic squares. The city was established by Oglethorpe and laid out in squares. Luckily 22 of these squares are still existing in the historic area which not only provides
Robert Smalls
We were impressed with the words of Robert Smalls as well as the momument to him in Beaufort SC the residents of the city numerous green spaces to sit and walk, but also provides a glimpse into the history of the area through the numerous statutes and historic markers. Fortunately many of the homes in the area have also been preserved over the years which make this city an excellent one to explore by foot. The weather cooperated and we had a lovely time taking in the architectural details and many of the green spaces of the city.
Fortunately for us our friends, Jim and Joanne from s/v Heather provided us great information on places to explore and anchor. We took their advice and took an alternate route down the Frederica River and anchored near Fort Frederica, a national monument. We enjoyed it so much we decided to stay two nights at this location. This gave us some time to do a few projects, explore the national monument and for some down-time. As much as we have been enjoying the trip, we also realized that we needed some time to relax as each day we have been either moving about 50 miles a day or taking time to explore – you don’t realize how tiring that can be
A different lighthouse
The lighthouse on Daufuskie Island is different than the norm so sitting at anchor an extra day was the perfect medicine. We are learning so much southern history through our explorations (and some of the history that we learned up north is definitely different from the presentations we have heard down here). The same General Oglethorpe that settled Savannah in 1736 settled the military town of Frederick. Once the town was settled he had the settlers build a fort in this same location. As the national park brochure explains, “Both the British and Spanish claimed land between St. Augustine and Charleston. As a buffer along its southern frontier, Britain planned the colony of Georgia – the last of the original thirteen in the territory below the Carolinas. “ The ruins of the town and fort are now part of the national park system and as always we were impressed with the work they have done to preserve these areas and bring the area to life through the stories they tell.
In Georgia the tides are quite large ranging up to 8-9 feet in some areas. As a result it is interesting to see the differences when at anchor of the sides of the rivers and the grasses. As Joanne
One of many Savannah mansions
The city of Savannah has preserved many of its historic mansions mentioned to us it is something to look out and see only grass and then later be able to rise above the grass and look out. We weren’t quite sure what she meant, but now we know. It was almost like taking an elevator ride – it changed so dramatically. We also took time for a dinghy ride down some of the creeks that we couldn’t go down with Tsamaya – when we did we got a chance to see a river otter playing along the banks.
We had heard from some people that we have met along the way about a Thanksgiving celebration in St. Mary’s, Georgia. We didn’t know if we would make it, but it worked out that it fit in nicely with the pace that we were traveling. Approximately 10 years ago a few boats had stopped in St. Mary’s due to bad weather around Thanksgiving. The local innkeeper felt bad and said that he would fix them a turkey if they provided the extras. Well, that tradition has remained, however, it has grown to a very large event as word has spread by word of mouth. The local restaurant still hosts this event by
Savannah historic square
Savannah has 22 historic squares remaining providing green space for everyone to enjoy. This is only one of the many well-kept parks that makes this a city that is so enjoyable to walk through providing not only the space but the turkeys and ham for the meal. Many people now make it a point to have this as a destination on their travels south each year and plan on staying here for a week or so. The restaurant turns over its patio, lounge and bar area each night for a happy hour so all the new boats that arrive can socialize as well as help the local economy some. Local residents also volunteer to drive cruisers to the local grocery store, liquor store, post office or Laundromat. They have been doing this all week with 4 runs a day! Today was the big event and there was enough food for an army – and an army of people there were! Found out that there are 102 boats anchored here which made up for approximately 204 people, about 30 boaters in the area came by car and about 30 local residents that volunteer their time or services all joined in for a fabulous feast. This was so well organized that each morning at 9AM everyone listened to their VHF radio to find out the events of the day (tai chi in the park, seminar on
The old cotton warehouses of Savannah
The old warehouses along the 40' bluff of the river in Savannah have been converted to restaurants and shops anchorages in Florida and the Bahamas, trips to the store or Laundromat, etc) as well as check in with what each boat was going to bring as their dish to pass so there was a balance of items between veggies, desserts and every other dish possible. It was great to have a chance to share the day with some of those that we have met before on our travels as well as those that are new acquaintances as of today.
One of the businesses in town is a used book store that has allowed cruisers over the years to write their boat name, names and dates on the wall. They even sponsored a get together with free muffins and coffee and encouraged people to bring a book they have read to donate and to buy “new” used books. We went to the store yesterday to make our mark on the wall and met a reporter from the local newspaper. As a result the article in the Georgian Times Union has quotes from both of us as well as other cruisers he met. Nothing like making it into the local paper!
This event hits home the benefit of getting to know
Working the nets
When passing through the many sounds you see working shrimp boats with their nets out and the flocks of birds surrounding them others in this very friendly community of cruisers. Everyone is willing to share ideas and help each other out. We also find that this also brings out the good in everyone. The people of St. Mary have been very generous and helpful to the cruising community. The other day we asked directions to the library and we were told that it was quite a hike and that they might be closing soon so he drove us there – he even said he’d wait for us if we weren’t going to be too long! We told him we’d walk back which we started to do, but another kind couple that was driving by in a golf cart (Bob has decided that it would be great to be live in a community where you can drive a golf cart around that you don’t even have to register ) stopped and asked if they could drive us to the waterfront. No one does this for pay, but out of the goodness of their heart and willingness to be helpful.
If this trip has done nothing else, it has confirmed how many generous people there are and that not everyone has a
Low tide view
Here is a view from our anchorage of the grasses and mud when it is low tide “me first” attitude. We always knew this, but it is nice to be reminded of this fact. Hope everyone had a nice thanksgiving where ever you were. You have been in our thoughts and wish you all the best.
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Lynn
non-member comment
Great as always. I love reading the captions and info attached to each picture, I even enjoy the history of the area (must be a sign of age for me, because I was never interested in history that much!). Keep up the great work and continue on your great voyage.