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Published: October 9th 2006
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The Old Post Office
Makes you wonder what the new one looks like! in the District of Columbia
It's an odd play on words on DC licence plates - subtly mocking the catch cry of the revolution of 1775. I didn't get the joke till Mary explained it to me. It's a fantastic city is Washington, built to Pierre l'Enfant's master plan for the new capital. It has wide boulevards, the National Mall (as opposed to Mall of America) and is adorned with so many gorgeous neoclassical buildings.
Jen and I arrived on Friday morning at 5.20 am. Lesson for the day - red eye flights are not that crash hot across the USA. We were both thrilled to see Pete and Mary as we stepped out of the airport an hour later into the bucketing rain and DCs morning rush hour. To see so many cars on the Beltway at that time of the morning was something of a shock, but this is America and this is the hub of an enormous bureaucracy.
Mary was keen to visit the Holocaust Museum so after an odd breakfast involving square bagels and the rubbish American's call coffee, we dashed across the city in the rain through the swamplike Mall, reminding
me quickly and brutally that my shoes leaked! The Holocaust Museum is a moving memorial to those who lost their liberties and lives before, and during, World War II. It outlines the Nazi rise, the Holocaust and the Nazi fall with some engaging exhibits gleaned from museums and memorials all over the world. For me, it was a little bit 'once over lightly' but then I've studied the history. For those that hadn't, I think they learned a great deal. The highlights were the cattle car taken from a museum in northern France, the gates of the Kovno ghetto and the interior of an Auschwitz barracks, rebuilt in DC. For some lighter material in the afternoon, we ate amongst the teeming hordes at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum. I can now say that I've seen the Hope Diamond, and it was quite a bit smaller than I thought. The rest of the geological exhibit was rather interesting, including a whole display of jewellery donated by master diamond-smith, Harry Winston. We admired some fairly disgusting live insect exhibits - millipedes - ick; as well as the mounted dinosaurs. By that stage, we were all a bit knackered, and I was sick
of having wet feet, so we adjourned to historic, gentrified Georgetown and ambled through the shops. I bought shoes. After dinner with Pete and Mary, we saw them off for their trip to Boston, and agreed to meet again in NYC in a few days. Magnificent.
The rain continued on Saturday, albeit somewhat more subdued that the day before. We slept a little late but ventured out about lunchtime to the most famous address in the USA. We arrived just in time to see Dubya himself (well, I'm pretty sure it was him) flown in by chopper from Ronnie Reagan International. Kinda neat that. 😊 The Whitehouse is just that, white, and not as imposing as I thought. A lovely subject for photos though. In an effort to escape the rain, we dashed down to the Mall and visited many of the memorials there. The Vietnam Veterans memorial was imposing but the crowds made something of a spectacle of the whole thing. The Korean Veterans memorial was much more quiet and reflective, and honoured not only American soldiers, but all those who fought. I liked it a great deal. The Lincoln memorial is kitsch, jingoistic and naff. It's a
Al and Andrew Jackson
He might be ugly (AJ, not me!) but there were cannon! great statue, with a great view, but the building is ugly and the crowds took something away. The FDR (Franklin Delano Roosevelt) memorial round the Tidal Basin is much more profound. FDR was the great Democrat, and probably America's most beloved president. The chosen quotes and thoughts of FDR highlight his concern not only for his people, but for all people and the world we live in. Jen wondered what he would think of the current administration. Jefferson's memorial is more majestic than Lincoln's I think, and not as obnoxious. I liked it immensely, mostly for the quiet reflection of Jefferson, looking out at the Washington monument. Speaking of which, it's a great big obelisk. Looks great in the Reflecting Pool, otherwise, I could take it or leave it. We closed off the afternoon in the National Gallery of Art with an appalling cup of coffee and some Raphael. I read a fantastic book recently about the life and times of his St George and the Dragon, and came here specifically to see it. Remind me, and I'll tell you the story sometime. It's small, but beautifully painted. I was even more delighted to find, at the end of that
gallery, Raphael's Alba Madonna, perhaps his most famous Madonna, and certainly his best. I didn't know it was here, and I love it! It was a real thrill to see. We also had the pleasure of admiring some lovely works by Titian, Cannaletto, Uccello and of course, El Greco. I am beginning to understand why my parents think so highly of him. We were booted out as the gallery closed, and responded by going to see Jet Li at the movies. Figured we should do it at least once while we were here. Lessons: American seats are reclining, their shorts are really long and detailed and it appears that Sarah Michelle Gellar is setting herself up as a scream queen. Oh joy.
After being unceremonially woken up at O-dark hundred this morning by our South African roomies returning from a night on the booze, we were both knackered as we stepped out into a day worthy of California in it's sunniness. We caught the metro out to Arlington National Cemetery. It's a really sobering experience, given that nearly 300,000 servicemen and women are buried there. Apparently they bury another 24 each day! We saw the Kennedy tomb, which I
Thomas Jefferson
and his words of wisdom found slightly disconcerting, and then ambled among the stones up to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier for the changing of the guard. It's a highly symbolic duty, riddled with secondary meanings but it was interesting to watch nonetheless. The drill was immaculate and the sergeant in charge absolutely frightening. More frightening was the saluting and hand on heart patriotism of the locals. Yeesh.
Anyway, we got out of there, but only after having seen (accidently of course) the stones of Chuck Yeagar and Omar Bradley and rode the metro back into the city to return to the National Gallery of Art. We had discovered, in the course of our departure the day before, that there was an exhibition of Le Douanier, Henri Rousseau on in the East Building. It was magnificent - almost a complete collection of his greatest works, including the truly incredible
Dream. We pottered through the rest of the main gallery, and enjoyed seeing some real gems. Rodin's Thinker was my favourite, but there was a sizable collection of Matisse, Monet, Manet and van Gogh. Loverly! Oh, and an original da Vinci sketch - wow! To close off our day, and our visit, we had
A Castle?
Only in America a quick look round the Smithsonian Hirshhorn Gallery. Mostly it was naff modern art, but there was a Miro that I rather liked and a couple of Magrittes that were rather cool. We sat in the sun and rested our aching feet, and then sat back to think about what we were going to do in the greatest city in the world. To NYC tommorow!
Anyway, I've got to say that I think we've both rather enjoyed Washington. It's a beautiful city, full of things that have to be seen to be believed. The people here have been really friendly, and I think it's the city in which I've felt most comfortable. It's something of an odd city to look at now, as the enormous new glass towers go up amongst the granite, sandstone and marble edifices of old and it's created an interesting social phenomenon that's very reminiscent of downtown San Francisco. DC is beginning to face up to the problems it's had in the past, and no doubt has a bright future.
Happy Columbus Day New Zealand,
Take care all,
Talk soon,
Al and Jen
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