Mills Lake (Rocky Mountain National Park)

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Distance: Mills Lake - 5.35 miles, Black Lake - 9.8 miles
Rating: to Mills Lake - moderate

Despite what I’ve said earlier about snow in the high country, I couldn’t resist heading back up to Rocky Mountain National Park again. Since it was still only mid June, I knew there would be snow on the ground. What I didn’t anticipate was just how much snow would still be around. For this hike, my dad and I had planned to make the long trek to Black Lake in the glacial cirque below the jagged peaks of the Continental Divide. Unfortunately, there was so much snow that the trail became obscured past Mills and Jewel Lakes. This route is not used enough for foot traffic to wear a path through the snow. So, while I call this hike “Mills Lake,” it really should be called something like “Halfway Between Mills Lake and Black Lake,” as that’s where we decided to throw in the towel.

The trail to Mills Lake is a very popular route leaving from the equally popular Glacier Gorge Junction Trailhead. This is one of four stops made by the shuttle bus that leaves from the parking area near Glacier Basin. Perhaps the biggest attraction along this trail is Alberta Falls, an easy destination for casual tourists. While many of the sight-seers stop at the waterfall, this trail remains quite congested as it provides access to other popular places like Loch Vale, Timberline Falls, and Lake Haiyaha. The trail provides some absolutely amazing views of the Continental Divide and the imposing summit of Longs Peak, the park’s highest mountain and only 14er.

From Glacier Gorge Junction, the trail begins to climb at an easy pace up to Alberta Falls, a little less than a mile in. After the falls, the trail begins a more difficult and steady climb up past the junction with the North Longs Peak Trail. Here, the trail enters a gorge, with towering peaks on all sides. The trail descends a bit here and eventually hits the intersection with the Loch trail (a little over 2 miles in). Follow the trail to the left to begin the moderate climb up to Mills Lake. As the trail ascends, look to the southeast for increasingly stunning views of Longs Peak’s flat top. The trail flattens out just before reaching Mills Lake at the mouth of Glacier Gorge. Longs Peak rises to the east, while McHenrys Peak, Chiefs Head Peak, and the Arrowhead are visible to the south. From the lake, the trail winds through dense forest and passes the nearby Jewel Lake. Because of the dense forest and cool temperatures at this altitude (9955 ft.), the snow may not melt for some time. We ended up turning around about a half mile past Jewel Lake.

As I mentioned, this trail provides access to several other note-worthy hikes to impressive lakes with more great views of the Continental Divide. For more information on this area, see my entry for the Loch Vale/Lake of Glass/Sky Pond hike.

As with all sub-alpine and alpine hikes, be prepared for fast-moving weather. The Glacier Gorge area tends to be very windy and storms move in quickly. Muddy conditions can be found all year on the trail beyond Mills Lake, so be prepared for slippery conditions if you plan to make the longer trek up to Black Lake.

Directions: From Denver, take I-25 north to the Boulder Turnpike (US 36). Follow US 36 through Boulder (it becomes 28th St. in town). When the highway dead-ends, turn left (west) into the town of Lyons (beware of speed traps!). At the town’s main intersection, turn right and follow signs for Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. Along the main drag in Estes Park, pay attention to the signs and follow US 36 (rather than US 34, which heads to the Fall River entrance). Enter the park at the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station along US 36. Take an immediate left onto Bear Lake Road. Continue on to the shuttle parking area across from Glacier Basin. The drive to the park can take about 2 hours. Cars are allowed beyond the shuttle parking area, but spaces at the trailhead are extremely limited and fill up early in the morning. The shuttle busses run every few minutes, so you shouldn’t have to wait for too long.

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