Day 1 - The Camino Real

North America » United States » California
November 1st 2017

Published: November 9th 2017

It’s hard to believe that it was only 2 short years ago (to the day - November 1) that Sara and I walked into Rome on the Via Francigena. In our many visits to California to visit Brian at school, we typically would “add-on” a few days somewhere else in California and go bike riding. This lead to discovering the fact that the Spanish (ruling Mexico at the time) established a series of 21 Missions in California, from the Mexican border all the way north to Sonoma, to colonize what was then called Alta California from 1769 to 1823. The Spanish were anxious to establish the Missions and claim the territory, in a concerted effort to keep the Russians at bay. At the time, with Russia owning Alaska, the Russians were eager to come south to what is now Vancouver, Washington State, Oregon, and California to hunt for otter and beaver pelts, which at the time, were one of the world’s most valuable commodities (think bitcoin). The pathway between each of these twenty one Missions was dubbed “The Camino Real” or the Royal Way (Spain had a king). Almost all of the original pathway has been lost, moved, or paved over since then. There are now scattered signposts with bells placed along sections of road where the original Camino Real passed, and indeed, many present-day road names in California are specifically named “Camino Real” after their original purpose. This also explains why so many California towns and cities have “Mission Districts,” (21 to be exact). Now you know..... Sara and I are planning to cycle approximately 800 miles from Sonoma to Los Angeles. We will then stay through a family Thanksgiving on the 24th, and then fly home to New Hampshire. Should be quite a month! Today started very early. We caught a 5:00AM bus from Portsmouth to Logan Airport. Flight to San Francisco was pleasant, and with a 3 hour time zone adjustment, we arrived at 11:00AM. We Uber-ed to the hotel in Sonoma. There’s always a bit of excitement peering out the window while crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, and as we got closer to Sonoma, we saw evidence of the horrific wild fires a few weeks ago, with entire hillsides burnt black from the fires in the Carneros wine region. 12:30PM - arrived at Inn at Sonoma and found that both our room was ready, and that the bikes we had shipped out had arrived safely. Yay! We are both hungry, so walk 2 blocks up to Sonoma Plaza, which is a lovely 8 acre square park in the middle of the town of Sonoma, and then find Restaurant La Salette. La Salette is a Portuguese restaurant which immediately had me excited. Sara starts with a rustic butternut squash soup, followed by a Spicy Piri Piri Chicken Salad. Sara got the Piri Piri hot sauce on the side. Sara shared some of her lunch with me, and I liberally used the Piri Piri sauce, and it was (as advertised) quite hot. I don’t remember encountering the sauce in Portugal, but who knows? Paul had the Arroz a Valenciana, which was a saffron rice paella with linguica sausage, chicken, and shellfish. The entire meal was outstanding. Paul suggests returning for dinner. Sara counters: “I’m sure there are other Sonoma restaurants that are equally outstanding.” Looks like I need to find another restaurant for dinner. We walk back to Sonoma Plaza, and no more than 50 yards away is Mission San Francisco Solano. The Mission was the last of the 21 Missions, constructed in 1823. The Mission is very small (comparatively), and it is closed due to the recent wildfires. Indeed, the entire town of Sonoma was evacuated (but remained unscathed), and all of the Mission’s artifacts were temporarily relocated to Sacramento for safe-keeping. Sara and I continue our walk around Sonoma Plaza and notice homemade sign after sign in storefront windows, all thanking the firemen and first-responders for saving the town. It must have been quite an ordeal. We return to the hotel and spend the afternoon re-assembling the bikes (Sara) and getting haircuts (Paul). 5:30PM - After a very welcome shower, we head back to Sonoma Plaza. The late afternoon breeze has picked up, and the fallen oak leaves are swirling about on the sidewalks as we pass. Arrive at Restaurant The Girl and The Fig, located right on the Plaza. We start with a delicious cheese plate of California cow and sheep’s milk cheeses. Sara then has Flounder Meunière, and Paul had Steak & Frites. Another excellent meal - Sara was right. For those inquiring minds - yes, the original Williams-Sonoma Store is still here in Sonoma, which we pass on way back to hotel. 7:30PM We’re exhausted. Buenas Noches.

Day 1 - The Camino Real

Copyright Notice: All Rights Reserved