Chillin' by the Golden Gate: San Francisco

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Originally a Spanish fort, San Fran's population boomed during the Gold Rush of 1849 when the prospect of riches lured settlers westward. Along with them came the sourdough bread so sought after by tourists today, denim jeans for workers made internationally renown by Levi Strauss, and famous chocolates manufactured by Ghirardelli catered to the laborers. The construction of the Transcontinental Railroad attracted Chinese immigrant workers who subsequently settled into the oldest Chinatown outside of Asia, while the Great Depression initiated the building of one of America's biggest civil engineering projects, the Golden Gate Bridge. The City by the Bay was also the epicenter for the Counterculture movement in the 60s when hippies flocked to the Haight-Ashbury district during the Summer of Love in 1967 and gays moved into the Castro neighborhood. The city also witnessed the Sexual Revolution that inspired free love and public nudity, and the Peace Movement that protested our involvement in the Vietnam War. In the new millennium, San Fran was also the capital of the dot com boom, which made it home to corporations like Yelp, Pinterest, Mozilla, and Craigslist.

With such a rich history, it's expected this city offers much to see and do. The 43 hills on which slopey streets wind down and tightly packed townhomes are nestled impart a certain European character, which is why many consider San Fran the most European city in America. This was made possible by the earthquake in 1906, a blessing in disguise for it was the architectural and cultural renaissance this town desperately needed. Like the Great Chicago Fire, the earthquake resurrected the city into the sprawling metropolis it is today, which gave life to the eclectic architecture it is famous for.

But before you explore the buildings, discover the sea-based cuisine this city popularized. Begin your adventure at the most famous pier in America, Pier 39. Located in North Beach, this attraction is known for the lounging sea lions sunbathing on the docks and the fresh-caught oysters. Afterwards, make your way to Fisherman's Wharf, the stretch of the bay from Gharardelli Square in the west to Pier 39 in the east. Here, you'll find steaming hot clam chowder in sourdough bread bowls at Boudin's (160 Jefferson St) for under $8. After a couple hours of shopping and dining, walk southeast to the most famous crooked street in America, Lombard Street. This is best viewed on foot from the bottom looking up on Leavenworth Street, or by car from the top going down on Hyde Street. If you're already driving, continue eastward for 7 blocks to Telegraph Hill and circle up to Coit Tower located at the top, which many claim was designed to resemble a firefighter hose. Once you've soaked in the views, enjoyed the murals on the walls, or paid to take the elevator to the top, walk down the 400 steps to the bottom of the hill as you look for parrots that inhabit the gardens lining the stairs. Then hop back in the car and drive along the Embarcado southward to the Ferry Building Plaza where the finest restaurants can be found. Go to Slanted Door if you can, which many tout as having the best Vietnamese cuisine in the city.

Now that you've explored the North Beach, Marina, and Russian Hill districts, move west to the Golden Gate Park where you can find the Japanese Tea Garden and the Botanical Garden, both costing $7 for admission and free for kids under 4 years-old. Find your way north to Presidio Park, a former military fort turned public space which offers amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge on the upper level. For a good vantage point on the lower level, walk down the steps to the base of the bridge along Marine Drive where you can find free parking for 2 hours. Then drive southeast to the Palace of Fine Arts (3301 Lyon St) for great photo-ops of a beautifully manicured pond and European-style domed pavilion, thus completing your visit of the city landmarks.

Continue your trip into the neighborhoods and explore the various districts that comprise the most densely-packed U.S. city besides NYC. This geographically small yet highly populated area makes San Fran one of the most expensive real estates in the country. Take time to wander outside the city center, which is something Kristina and I didn't have the liberty of doing. But if time permits, take the cable cars up the steep hills to Nob Hill, the former home of the city's business tycoons. Then walk east into Chinatown and discover the oldest Chinese community outside the Great Wall. Wander south to South of the Market and the Financial Districts where internet startups are situated. Then stroll over to Haight-Ashbury to find bohemian architecture and vibrant stores. The last neighborhood worth a visit is Pacific Heights, built by the wealthy after the 1906 earthquake. It's only once you've completed a tour of these neighborhoods that you truly get a taste of this eclectic city. Since we failed to do this during our first visit, the bay area calls for a second round in the future, something we highly look forward to. Until then, happy travels!

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Photos

Boudin's Cafe
Clam chowder in sourdough bread bowl