Valdez -1

---

We are off to Whittler to catch the ferry to Valdez. WoW another absolutely awesome drive and now on the Marine Highway cruizin the waterways of Prince William Sound. We could be on a Manly Ferry except that: we are going faster, there are way less people, no cars or buildings in sight and snow capped mountains all around and come down to the shore line.

The road to Whittler took us back past the 7 glaciers resort of Alyeska. So we took a detour to check what it looked like on a clear sunny Alaskan morning.... more wow...We would love to spend some more time here but need to drive to get to Whitter by 11.30 to book into the ferry. We stopped at the Jade Factory (which was closed when we were in Alyaska the other day. Here there are so many beautifu pieces of carving and jewelery and a 22 ton rock, no, boulder of Jade which they use as necessary. The Jade comes from the very top of the country somewhere. I got Des a piece, just a lump which I will give to him later, because he wants me to but also because it's good luck to be given Jade.

Anyway back on the road again we find the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Park. We discuss with the gate attendant the constraints of our schedule. She is most helpful. We work the times backwards from needing to be at the ferry by 11.45 and the tunnel at 11.30 etc. Its 10.34... 1.3 miles circle drive with 10 spots to view the native animals. Yes, we can do this... so we drive in. This is much better than the zoo. We mosty hope to spot the bears which we do pretty quickly (along with a bus load of Japanese). Oh well, they move on fairly quickly. its only a 2 minute stop on the schedule. (funny about that!) The grizzly is pretty active and staying close to the fence. Its not as big as I had thouhgt. A second bear is playing in the lagoon nearby. Des says he is eacting but I'm sticking to playing. I would certainly not like to meet these guys out in the open. The black bears in another part of the reserve are acting nervously pacing up and down not unlike the ones att he zoo...perhaps they are just having fun. I'm feeling better about the caged/behind the fence animals in Anchorage.

On to Portage

On to Portage, Portage Glacier and the mountain tunnel .

Sometimes used for trains and certainly originally built for trains and these days it’s a tunnel time share arrangement. Cars travelling through the tunnel, Portage to Whitter on the ½ hour and Whitter to Portage on the hour and trains have right of way. It a 2.45 mile interesting drive. Dark, narrow, damp and slippery on the track. Des and I do the usual fun stuff making train noises and sing all the songs that have some link and remember stories of Cassy Jones.

Back now into sunlight we hit the village of Whitter. First sight a huge cruise ship. Its looks stunning against the ice covered mountain backdrop. We pass shops and business area, not unlike Homer but filled with boats of all dimention getting ready to hit the water. The line up is about ½ mile long. We watched the ferry unload. Cars and bikes came out front first but the big trucks and trailers, RV’s all backed up the gang way. Skillful stuff.

Once on the ferry and car stored we select our seats. Usual emergency lessons and sit back - the views are amazing, Fills one with so much joy - would like to be out sailing in it but this had got to be a close second.

The trip itself is a smooth fast 3 hours mostly because we are totally engrossed in the scenery and oh working on avoiding talking to the very boring Kiwi who has bailed up everyother passsenger with some story… his… and the ‘I’ve been every where’ thing. Its fairly easy to keep focussed on the scenery. Really it is so beautiful. Sadly not a lot of wildlife to distract us.

Arrival at Valdez. We check off the ferry and head for the B&B a large blue 'A' shaped building on street back from the water (That’s if they haven’t had a new paint job for the summer). Once sorted, we head off, as usual, for a walk to get the lay of the land/water.

Like most other places, Valdez is gearing up for the summer ouslaught of tourists. We venture into a few shops including the Anadyr Adventure tours and gallery. Here we find some beautiful pieces of glass work, Inuit beadwork and the usual assortment of tourist bits and pieces as well as a softly spoken ageless (but I predict ??? older than me) lady (Nell) with whom we begin to converse. She is a gem of knowledge about the area. She gives us a history lesson about the comings and goings of the area. I think she has been around forever. Later we discover she is the originator and owner of the adventure tour business in the area. We leave this establishment after about ½ hour of chat and some thoughts of a sea kayak trip. This was on my list of must do’s either for Alaska or Vancover. Anyway we move on as the yardarm tells us its drink time. Mike’s Place had been recommended by the guy at the B&B so we head in there and are meet by a lovely young lady who recommends the establishment next door for that drink we so eagerly await. Oh yes, we can check out the Mike’s menu at the same time.

Well!!! What an experience was to come. Opening the door we are confronted by a dark smoke fill room with by what could loosly be described old, kicth 50’s or maybe 60’s pub type décor. The bar runns parallel to the street - maybe to give a view of the beautiful vista or maybe to ensure everyone on the inside knows what happening on the outside and in the harbour without actually leaving their seats. Certaily a number look as if they haven’t (left their seats that is) in a good while. Some may have even fossilized on the stools. This place is jumping. As we enter heads turn and excessively long exhales of smoke billow upward. I am not sure what the look on my face says but I am not game to look at Des but there is a million thoughs happening in my head. So I stride on in and head straight for, no not the bar, but a table a little bit back. I don’t think anyone have been this far back in the room for a while so I give the table a dust and take up a perch where I can survey this remarkale sight/ snigger a little/ joke and laugh without drawing any undue attention and wish like hell I had the guts to get the camera out and start snapping. The consequences may well have been dire. This is remarkable, remarkably unreal that is. I am reminded of a Scottish Pub we visited a number of years ago. Des of course is having his own little experience at the bar.

Finally he arrives safely and with two beers and we talk softly so as not to interrupt the atmosphere. At one stage I almost loose control laughing. Des is being his usual corny self which doesn’t help… he chooses to stay sitting opposite as I almost repeat the Christmas, Harbord Hilton trick. On closer inspection of the clientele there appears to be two categories: Vietnam vets escaping the world - these now have long grey hair and shattered look - and the ordinary down and out refugee from the outside world. The other identifying feature of this establishment is the fine quality air. If I die of lung cancer it will be from the 20 minutes I spend in this room. After one beer, lots of mirth we figure we have had our fun and not upset the regular flow of bar life too much. We choose not to have a second beer and move on.

Later we have a lovely dinner at Mike’s Place followed be a very long walk around the harbour. It’s a big harbour filled with a mixture of pleasure boats big and small, charter fishing and yachts.
Fishermen are bringing in their catch (mainly halibut, my new favourtive fish in all the world) to the public filleting area. These areas are perfectly set up spots along the shore line and are fitted up in stainless steel with nylon cutting boards, running water and water driven shute that takes the left over bits back to the sea or to feed the birds. A kind fisherman offers to share some of his catch with us.

Highlight of our return to the B&B is the Fu King resturant (Why didn’t we eat there?). Another great named establishment to add to the collection.

Next morning we head off for another stroll checking out other Valdez sights passing once again the Adverture tour shop. We ponder the Kayaking question.. but not for long and soon we are getting kitted up to explore Prince William Sound, maybe we are the first Darwinians to tame these waters. Actually there is not much taming to do it’s a beautiful sunny warm Alaskan day.
Heidi our guide for the day thanks us for getting her out of the office. We look great in our wet weather overalls, spray skirt and float jacket. I certainly don’t have any intension of falling in the water, its 3 degrees. Now dressed and having chosen our paddles the excitement is building up. It’s been 20 years since I kayaked and never before have I been in a two man event. Des had better behave and do his share!! The lady yesterday said I should take the front seat - so that’s what it will be. Down to the wharf we go dressed and ready. It’s easy paddling with lots of time to take in the sights. Valdez is a oil port so tugboats for guiding tankers of the Exxon Valdez type are a usual sight and we take the inisde tack around these vessels. They are pretty big and there is three of them. Lucky these guys are parked. I think for a moment about Greenpeace and Rainbow Warrior activitsts. As this is the place where that dreadful oil spill happened, it is a big topic for discussion. Heide tells us the local version of events.

Birds abound even an eagle perched high in a tree surrounded by hundreds of very noisy seagulls. I guess they are nervous. A harbour seal joins us popping his head up every now and then. I guess he is enjoying the event too. I certainly was. This is so great. Another wow moment and my skills of yesteryear have resurfaced and I am pretty happy with my stamia. Des must have been doing his bit.

I discover later that I have sun burnt arms. Who would have imagined that!! Along the way Heide tells us Nells story. She started the business Anadyr Adventures and is totally devoted to the area and sharing it in as many ways as possible. Another great day and its only half over.

---

Photos

Portage
Train Tunnel

Portage
Portage Glacier

Valdez
Boat Harbour - Stressful place according to some!

Valdez
Fu King Good Chinese Restaurant

Prince William Sound
Intrepid Duo

Valdez
The Man Himself - Prince Willaim ???

Valdez
Dog LADY
Whisker Licker