Apparently they didn't film 'The Proposal' here...

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Docked at Sitka around 9am but the two hours before as the ship sailed in were 'stunning'...get used to that word! There are hundreds of islands of all shapes and sizes as you approach, many of them like gigantic examples of 'bonsai' trees. Just a couple of rocks sticking out of the ocean with a couple of pines growing out of it at strange angles with the foliage springing out at bizarre angles as if manicured that way.

Big excitement amongst the regular geriatric cruise brigade because a) this was the first time this year that the cruise ships had got into Sitka (or some of the lines anyway) and b) the dock at Sitka has been upgraded and this ship will be the first ever to actually dock there as opposed to drop anchor (nautical stuff) in the main harbor and tender ashore from their vessels. Imagine!! Regardless, it was a fantastic day weather wise and it took about 15 minutes to disembark (that means 'get off'😉 and catch one of the charter buses the 5 miles into Sitka township and the O'Connell Bridge.

Sitka has a proud Russian heritage dating back to the whaling days and remnants of this still remain with the Russian Orthodox Church and a number of other sites. The main street is Lincoln Street, which is not very Russian at all, and the town spreads off this. For context, Lincoln Street runs about 500 metres and there is very little on the parallel streets. The place is quaint and is just what you imagine, assuming we all imagine the same, when you think of Alaska towns. If we don't imagine the same then your absolutely none the wiser as to what it may look like. We wandered for an hour or so and then went to the Highliner Cafe, famous in Sitka for its coffee, we were keen to go for its free wi-fi. As it turned out the coffee was exceptionally good and the kids had healthy smoothies. I have been writing the blog on the ship so all I needed to do was cut and paste it into the blog text box and it was done. However the upload of photos takes time on a shared wi-fi, particularly in the back of beyond, and Sitka is way back and way, way beyond (there are no roads in) so only did a few.

Sandy quizzed a local business operator about why the cruise ships stopped coming into Sitka and he said the locals had grown tired of the ships and petitioned successfully to have them stopped. They then did an about turn as taxes and rates were increased dramatically to pick up the shortfall in revenue and result, some ships were allowed back in. There were two ships in today, so maybe 2,000 or 3,000 more people wandering the street(s). That's the story anyway.

Wandered some more and we were bedazzled (a word I have never previously used) by the stunning views. Mountains, harbor gleaming like crystal, the islands and forests surrounding. Even a harbor seal showing out every now and again amongst the long line trolling fishing vessels coming in and out chasing the running salmon.

Then joined the tour for the day we had booked, Sea Otter and Wildlife Quest with Allen Marine. Good two level catamaran with pumped up and souped up outboards off the back and a big viewing platform on top. Even supplied complimentary binoculars. Then headed out just after 1pm and pulled up alongside about a dozen rafting otters at around 1.10pm. They are called a raft of otters as they join together and make a raft when they sleep, normally amongst a floating mass of kelp or seaweed. You just keep learning stuff! My first thought was 'is this it' but then the skipper came over the PA and said this was just a taster. Kids loved the otters and they looked pretty cute, which is deceptive as they are similar in size and weight to German Shepherds. Getting mauled by a 'police otter' doesn't really sound right though.

There was a reef to cross and the Skipper timed his run to cross it on the swell and really knew what he was doing. Once over the reef dropped into becalmed waters amongst a large group of wooded islands. Cruised around in here for around an hour and saw otters throughout, usually solitary figures floating on their backs clawing at food on their bellies. Found a larger group, apparently male, probably otter equivalent of 'Freemasons' just hanging out hiding from their wives and kids. There was about a dozen again and the water was very calm, they were very relaxed, and the boat just quietly sidled up alongside them. We sat there looking at them, they lay there looking at us. From our boat came sounds like 'oooh aint they so cute' and 'just wanna take one home they're so darling'. No sound came from the otters but you could tell what they were thinking and it wasn't complimentary.

Saw a number of Bald Eagles in the trees and in flight and this was fantastic. Saw some of their nests, these enormous structures of old sticks, close to the size of a small car. Had a good look at these for a while and then the skipper called that we might shoot out a little ways and see if we could see some whales. We said 'okay' but not overly hopeful as Sitka is lower down the list of optimum whale sighting locations in Alaska we have been told. Twenty minutes later we're still pounding out and nothing in sight when Skipper slows and says there's a spout at 11 o'clock. Amazing the number of people who checked their watches! He headed towards the spout and sure enough there was a Humpback. He cruised in a little closer and then just parked up and we watched and waited and sure enough another Humpback appeared, and then another, and another, and another.

For the next hour we sat pretty much in the same spot and saw whale after whale surface and blow and then dive. Many were so close that as they blew the air and water out their spouts you could smell their breath, literally. A mother and calf drifted alongside for several minutes before mum took the plunge and junior followed soon after. The water was calm and the sky was clear and the views were spectacular, the back drop beyond the whales awe inspiring. On occasions there were whales all around the boat and conservatively there were at least 20 passing through there while we sat there.

This was an afternoon of pure magic. The otters had been new and completely different and a real surprise to get in to watch them from so close. The whales left us close to speechless. Sitting close enough to count the barnacles on the this of their tails, to feel the spray from them when they surfaced and blew, to make out the details along their spines was incredible. To have been close enough to see this on one whale would have been a rare treat, to see it repeatedly was a privilege.

After 3 hours we headed back into port but the tour boat dropped us back at the ship as opposed to the wharf where we would have then needed to have caught a shuttle. En route the tour operator told us a little about Sitka, and we got a real lecture on farm -v- wild salmon and the evils of the first. How it endangers the wild stocks with its genetic handling etc... and how should always buy Alaskan wild salmon. She was also very quick to stress that the movie with Sandra Bullock, 'The Proposal' was not filmed in Sitka as it was to inaccessible. The bus driver had said there were only three ways into Sitka, by plane, by ship or by birth canal. Seems it is true.

Once back aboard the Century, fed the kids who were a bit hungry and then Reuben and I played 2 on 2 basketball with some other guys on the basketball court on the top deck. Its an outdoor court with netting all around for obvious reasons, but the setting was just a little unusual, as the cruise ship sat docked, nestled amongst this labyrinth of islands and the sun set with this spectacular display of colour. Very memorable. Reuben's team won. I wasn't on his team.

Sandy and Caitlin went to the show at 7pm while the menfolk stayed in the cabin. The girls got back raving about the show around 8pm and we went for dinner.

All done and dusted, kids in bed by 9.30pm. If you haven't been to Sitka or Alaska - drop it on your bucket list and not too far down it!

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Photos

Bonsai magnified..
Typical of the little islands that litter the region. This is outside our port hole at dock in Sitka.

Reuben winding up his mother...
On deck just prior to disembarking for a day in Sitka.

Otto the Otter...
One of a group of males completely unphased by our boat sitting right alongside them.

Happy with this...
Not a bad photograph at the end of the day but there were so many whales had lots of chances to practice and get the timing right.

Kindred Spirit...
Lone Bald Eagle just soaking up the sun and surveying the surrounds.