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Published: January 5th 2008
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It was a short hop from Corozal, Belize to Chetumal, Mexico. The ticket guy on the bus helped us get to the correct window for foreigners and fill in our forms. It was only ourselves and an American Jehovah Witness lady who were not from Belize or Mexico. Going through customs we had to press a button on some traffic lights. The American got a red light and had to open everything. We got a green and could go through. We wondered if someone behind a tinted window was controlling the response or if it was truly random.
In Chetumal we were dropped across a multi-lane road from the bus terminal. We helped the American to the terminal as she had lots of bags. We also helped her get her ticket to Cancun. We bought tickets to Tulum for P$152 (US$14.50) each. It was definitely more expensive to travel in Mexico but they have first class and executive class options that are advisable for security and pleasantness. And our first class bus was lovely, very modern and lots of leg room. We left on the same bus as the American and also on the bus were the 2 Irish girls
who we had met in San Ignacio briefly when they were getting on the shuttle we were getting off.
After a chilly ride (must remember a warm top for the next air-conditioned bus) we arrived just after dark in Tulum and shared a taxi with the Irish girls to the beach. The first place was full, the second place was US$60 for a cabana with no bathroom and hippies camping at your front door. And the third was horrendously understaffed. It took ages to find the cabanas in the dark. We found an acceptable one for US$60 with bathroom but foolishly paid for 3 nights. It was comfortable enough but very bare and breezy. Only later did we notice the cockroaches and bad smell. And the lights went out at 11 pm. Although I am rather fond of the sound of the waves on the beach and of seeing the sunrise over the ocean, it was not worth the price. For anyone visiting Tulum, arrive early enough and with enough energy to shop around. There are tons of places on the beach. Don't bother with Papaya Playa. And if nothing grabs you just stay in town. The town of
Tulum is quite pleasant.
We took a long walk along the beach to the Tulum Mayan ruins. There was a fair amount of clambering over rocks but it was lovely. It was a cloudy day so it was not a great view of the ruins. We walked up to the road and found the entrance to the ruin swarming with tourists. It was P$45 entrance and not a magnificent site but still interesting and beautifully positioned on the cliffs. If there were less people and if we had better weather we would have enjoyed it more.
We booked a day trip to the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve just south of Tulum. We were picked up by
CESiaK at 8:30 am and transported to their environmentally friendly resort just inside the reserve, beautifully situated on a sandbar between the ocean and a lagoon. Walking to the lagoon we jumped into 1 or 3 boats. There were 2 Germans and 2 Australians in our boat with a lovely captain who went first in the convoy, across the lagoon and into a windy waterway. This meant we got first view of the birds before we scared them off. We also scared
a crocodile into the water. It was a fantastic ride swerving around the bends in the river. The water was so clear. We saw giant crabs and cormorants swimming. And lots of fishes.
We went all the way to the next lagoon and returned to a dock and got out to look at a Mayan temple. Then we stripped to our togs and jumped in the water. With life vests on we just floated with the current for 20 minutes or so. It was lovely and we chatted most of the way with the Aussies. They were on a driving holiday for 4 weeks. We returned to the resort for a lovely lunch and a rest before returning the park entrance where we visited a cenote, a fresh-water sinkhole, which was filled with pretty fishes. But the pier was so tiny and there were people waiting back down the path and people already there. So we didn't go in. It was a great day out and worth the US$70 each we paid.
The town of Tulum is quite pleasant as we have already mentioned. Although there are many tourist type restaurants, we found some perfectly pleasant inexpensive local
places. One was Don Cafetos where we enjoyed a traditional platter of chiles rellenos (stuffed chilli peppers) and enchiladas in a mole (chocolate and chilli) sauce amongst other things. Fantastic food.
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