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North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Puerto Escondido
August 15th 2008
Published: August 15th 2008
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Hey everyone
a quick update:
I traveled the rest of the Yucatan, and the states of Chiapas, Oaxaca and a little bit of Veracruz for a little under 3 weeks. It was great to explore the untouched beaches with the softest white sand made out of limestone annd great winds to try kitesurfing and some sailing. I also explored a lot of the mayans ruins and used the knowledge of my past clases (mainly geography of latin america) to completely understand how the regions - the people and land work. I have to say, the mayan are way advanced and brillant.

Chiapas was great. I definitly recommend Palenque: its a town (really small and not that interesting) with great ruins in the jungle. I easily spent 3 days- 2 nights living in cabnanas that felt like a tree house next to the mayan ruins. What i loved most about these ruins were they were not like Chichen Itza- well preserved but more like an attraction in disneyland. instead built within the jungle, the flora and fauna, the ruins and general atmosphere left a peaceful mysterious vibe. also the ruins are in a natural reserve so you can spend the day hiking the mountains and going to waterfalls.

In san cristobal, this city reminded me of Bolivia. Very indigenous culture, lots of people speaking mayan, leaving me feeling like a giant since the average height is no more than 5 feet. being in the mountains, its was the first time i had to wear my sweatshirt and jeans. THe food market was the most interesting. they sold almost anything imaginable. stalls with big sacks of different tyepes of beans, and different fruits. the most interesting was the ladies wwalking around with live chickens dangling from their arms. It was hard to take pictures. the next day i took a trip to the farm areas where i can really see and experience the zapatista movement.i am glad i got to talk to some farmers nad see sancristobal since i have studied so much about this movement tand the effect of NAFTA and globalization.


After that we spent a went to oaxaca city to spend a couple of nights. it was right before the guelagetza (i dont know how to spell it) which is this annual celebration of the different cultures in the state of oaxaca. I saw some preview dances of traditional music and folklore dance. to tell you the truth, it was not very interesting, but the food in oaxaca is the best. soo many different spices and flavors and different ways of preparing the same food. Oaxaca did not interest me that much. its a pretty city a good student town but lots of poverty. Oaxaca is the poorest state and the trend of urbanization did not work. many of the campesinos came to the city witht he idea of jobs and progress. however, with little educationa nd little oppertunities, they came only to be jobless. thus, there is a huge informal sector- lots of vendors and food stalls on the street. and the most aggressive beggars i have yet to encounter. Other than that, I visited some mezcal factories. mezcal is the sister drink of tequila but much stronger. one shot and you can feel it. it makes your throat warm. the cream flavors are dangerous.

Finally, a little less than a month ago I arrived in the amazing surfing town Puerto Escondido. I came when there was a huge swell ( like 18ft!!!!). Within 3 days I loved it and decided I wanted to extend my trip and stay here. I found a job working at a bar- restuarant 3-4 days a week. The job is way chill. I start around 7pm and spend the hour walking the beach of zicatela and telling people that we have live music tonight. in fact, the best reggae band in puerto plays at fajitas, where i work. I get to practice my spanish and portuguese and meet many people from all over and many people deeply involved in the surfing industry and famous surfers. when the sunsets, i eat a big meal ( so i save money on food becuase i dont eat a lot durnigthe day) and get all the free drinks i want. Its only busy from about 1030-130... and all that time i speak spanish and english and whatever else and meet lots of people.. in spite of all this, it is hard work and i only get paid 100 pesos... $10 a day. so, in all im paying for my room and saving money on food and drinks.. but not much else.. but it has been a great experience to see how business works in L.A. ( its hard for people to be punctual and here, they are so lazy..not motivated to work). and although there are not as many restrictions and permits needed to run a business, its the day to day excuses and interactions that make it dificult.

I have been surfing alot.. not in zicatela, but smaller waves and i have defintily improved. since i go when the sun is the hottest ( from noon to 6) it takes a lot of energy out of me and i cant go as often as i would like..also becuase everytime i go i have to rent a board for a day.. so the days i do go surfing i usualy get at least 4 good solid hours in the water... which with the current and sun.. is more than enough.. The sun and humidity makes it hard to do much..andi found myself doing vbery little, and having the time pass by fast.. i guess im enjoying myself too much

Zicatela is located south of the centro de puerto escondido. it has one main street next to thebeach and is where the famous beach break is. the centro is interesting- lots of authentic mexican shops and customs and you can find the tacos al pastor and salsa and where the locals work. Zicatela is where the surfers hang out. I spend so many hours watching them and the waves and I never get sick of it. Here, the water is truly amazing. the waves change and i see world class athletes challenge themself. I have meet many fmaous surfers- from cali, hawaii, peru, mexico.. all the guys you hear about in the magainzes like jamie sterling, jessie hines, and they have such a huimbleness to them that i would of never known they were the best unless someone told me. The surfers have to be humble becuase the waves are so intense that you are risking your life surfing them.. the current is strong and its really shallow so one bad wipeout and its all over. for a month, i have heard of 3 people dying from the strong undertow.. not surfers. obviously but people not aware and not strong swimmers.

other than that, i have been taking day trips todifferent beaches and just chilling and reading and of course practicing my spanish. I have made good friends with people from California, Mexico, Argentina, Chile, Peru, and Australia. i have a new appreciation for surfing and truely understand how it is a way of life. The water and waves brings a peaceful vibe.. and just like bob marley sings..no one worries much a bout a thing.. becuase as long as they have their boards, food, and health, everylittle thing is gonig to be all right.

After 5 weeks here, I will be ready to leave, since being a small town, it is all the same, and if one does not have a keen interest in surfing, it s easy to get over fast. I have seen puerto growing with lots of construction and talks of development.this town has a great authentic vibe, i am afraid in 3 years, it will sell out like the north shore of hawaii and become more commercialized.. and basically like southern california..

TO finish off my 2 month trip in mexico, I am going to spend 4 days in mexico city and then back to california august 28th. i decided to skip acupulco becuase i hear its dirty andd not worth it unless i want to party hard ( which at this point, i can skip...).. ill save it for when i return
The mexicans are very nice and i have not had much problems with them. they are all willing to help and talk to me. its easy to talk to locals like in argentina and every puebla, although similar, has something different and interesting to it.
i am just realizing how big nad diverse mexico is .. and of course,.. need to save upmore money to explore more

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