Handicraft Villages

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We took a day trip with a private guide on our last day in Oaxaca. He took us to the Friday market at Ocatlan. This market was fairly overwhelming. With the guide along, we never really felt like it was OK to stop and buy something, or to explore. It kept feeling like we were rushing through the market, to get somewhere - and then suddenly, it was over. We had "seen" the market, but we hadn't really seen it because we spent most of our time trying to follow our guide through the crowded stalls.

Next, we saw a gorgeous church restored by a famous artist in Ocatlan. He had painted the outside and inside so creatively. He is very famous for his work in Mexico, having also painted inspirational murals in Mexico City's subway stations.

Famous in Ocatlan are the Aguillar sisters, who create clay figurines. Their father started the practice and they have continued, with 4 workshops side by side. The themes range from mermaids, prostitutes, cabaret dancers, Frida Kahlo, the Virgin Mary, and animals. I saw a beautiful woman in a pink evening gown and had to take her home with me, and bought a little mermaid figurine for a friend. It turned out that we bought from the most famous of the sisters, Guillermina. I should have bought far far more, but of course, we were concerned about carrying these fragile clay figurines back.

The next village we stopped at - having skipped a few for it was a long day and we were paying by the hour for the car & guide, was San Martin Tilcajete. This village is famous for alibrijes, carved animal figurines. I had wanted to buy a few little ones for my child. 80% of the town is involved in the trade, but we went to the most renowned and artistic of the workshops. when I later saw other alibrijes in town, I could see that ours had far more detail and work that had gone into it. Most other ones were painted mainly with acrylics in very simple designs, probably good enough for most people, but not once you've seen the real thing.

The process of creating alibrijes is quite amazing. First, they carve the figures from Copal wood, allowing the shape of the wood to determine the figure that will emerge from it. Then, it must dry for 3-6 months. Next, they create pigments from natural tints, just as the Zapotecs did. Today, they also use acrylic paints, which are brighter. Acrylic paints are used for modern pieces, and by the children. The natural tints are used for indigenous designs, and each one has a meaning, just as the original Zapotecs woudl have done.

I bought two figurines - one small howling coyote in bright acrylic greens and pinks - and a beautiful reddish-brown dog figure in the traditional Zapotecan style. It cost a lot but I was impressed by the workmanship.

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