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Published: October 7th 2008
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the farm girl in her element
(this is my new basket and the flowers from Flower Gate) It was an interesting weekend, one that included our first day off since we’ve been here. Saturday morning we arose extra early in order to head out to the pueblo of Teotitlan. After meeting at Omar’s school we climbed into our ‘cochas’ and headed for the mountains. It was an overcast morning but warm and we had the windows down with the radio blaring old Cranberries tunes. I wouldn’t have taken our young driver for a Cranberries fan but hey, people surprise me everyday.
As “Zombie” finished we drove up the cobble stone streets of Teotitlan. The daily market was in full swing so off we went to find some bargains. I ended up buying a traditional basket and filling it with a bouquet of Jasmin and Calla Lilies, Both 10 peso’s each, Jason and Diana purchased flowers as well with the intention of making bunches for our wonderful host mothers as well as Bridget who was missing the trip due to illness. After the market we headed to Paco’s house where we were getting a demonstration of their traditional rug making techniques (rug-tapites) and some comida. It was at Paco’ house were Flower Gate happened.
We had asked
Paco's nina
she almost got kidnapped by Jen who googled at her untill comida for a bucket of water to stick all our flowers in so that they wouldn’t wilt during the four hours we were meant to be there. A bucket was filled and brought to us so we innocently filled it with our lovely flowers. Unfortunately no one communicated the fact that they were gifts for our mothers to one of the women of the house. She assumed they were all for her, all seven bouquets, and promptly began removing them from the bucket and taking them inside. Before we knew what had happened they were all arranged throughout the house without so much as a “thank you” or “muchas gracias”. Now, I don’t know about you but when I bring flowers as a gift I present them to the giftee by hand, I don’t normally stick them into a dirty bucket saying “we’ll take them when we leave”. But hey, I guess people do things differently in different cultures? We are laughing at it now but at the time it put a dent in my day. It would have been rude to ask for them back so we had to choke back feeling of being ripped off and hope that she
was enjoying them more then the look on her face implied when she saw how many flowers she had to deal with. Needless to say I kept a close eye on my new basket for the rest of the day, making sure to put all my stuff into it so it didn’t also go walk about.
The carpet demonstration was very interesting, especially the stuff about how they make the dyes, from the bodies of dried, crushed cactus animals in the case of the red dye, and how they trade for colours they can’t make from their own surroundings. We watched as Paco stirred up a cauldron of red bug bodies and plain wool. After the demonstration we were treated to a massive comida of quesadillas filled with zucchini flowers, a sopa called guias that was very spicy, molle negra con chicken y aroza (with chicken and rice), chocolat oaxaqueno (local hot chocolat) and a desert of chayote azucar (sugar soaked chayote). Paco then had to roll us out to see his herd of turkeys and then down the street for a walk in the mountains.
The walk was lovely and enabled me to do some black and
white photography as well as some quiet walking time. It was a beautiful walk, accompanied part of the way by a local Teotilanian and his two burros heading back from a long day of carting fire wood to the village. After our rejuvenating walk we all pilled back into our coches to drive back into Oaxaca and go to bed, or at least that’s what I thought.
About 8:30pm my phone rang and I presence was requested in two hours at the zocalo so that we could go salsa dancing. Now, I have been looking forward to salsa dancing since I knew I was coming on this trip, but I was very, very tired. Fortunately I wasn’t given much of a choice and at 10:15 I met Jen, Sarah and Jason in front of Santo Domingo. We walked around for a while and then headed to the Candela club which, we have been told by everyone, is the best salsa club in Oaxaca. Because Jason’s homestay mum met us there and she is a regular, we were seated at one of the best tables with a few of her Oaxacan friends, then the salsa band took the stage.
Wool dying the old fashioned way
The red colour comes from the dried, ground bodies of a bug found on local cactus. Wow, Oaxacan’s can move! I watched for about 30 minutes in awe of the amazing turns, wiggles, spins and twists that were happening on the dance floor before I got dragged up there myself. I was very open about not having done salsa dancing before but that didn’t seem to be an issue for my dance partners, all of whom had obviously done salsa before. By the end of the night I had salsad my way across the floor many times, spinning and twisting the phenomenal live band and having the time of my life. I even felt like a local when I recognised friends at another table and went over to chat. By 2am I was exhausted and having to turn down offers due to sore feet and an inability to lift my head from the table. In short I went to bed a happy dancer, promising myself to sign up for dance lessons first thing on Monday.
Domingo (Sunday) was a day of rest and relaxation, the first so far. I slept until breakfast, then returned to bed, with a bit of reading until comida, about 4pm. Diana came over about 7pm and we had an adventure
Spanish Loom
This one was brought over by the Spanish wheras at Santo Thomas they use the more traditional strap-looms. in Chedrouie’s (which we now call Chewbaka’s, or Chewy’s for short) then came back to my room and watched Casablanca with Fabiola (my Maxican sister).
Today was another day of Spanish classes and I am so glad we are taking them. I have been able to have various conversations with my familia here and seem to remember more and more each day. I was even able to follow the plot on an afternoon soap with Mama after comida today.
I’m going to sign off and get some sleep as tomorrow we are visiting a school and I need to have energy. Miss you all and love you.
S
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