D.F. = definitely FANTASTIC

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We hit the ground running, that is after sitting on the tarmac for an hour while our plane's communication system got fixed. In a city this size always has something going on at any hour, so we are walking all and dropping at night. First surprise was were the "Alebrijes" on the sidewalks of Reforma: weird creatures some ten feet high.
Pedro Linares started out as a common papier mache artist who eked out a living on the outskirts of Mexico City by making traditional piñatas, carnival masks, and Judas dolls for local fiestas. In the 1930s, he broke from tradition and started creating elaborate decorative pieces that represented imaginary creatures he called alebrijes. Inspired by a dream when he fell ill at age 30, and in the delirium of his fever he started to have visionsn of fantastic creatures. Once he recovered he began to create what he had seen out of paper maché. These papier mache sculptures were brightly-painted with intricate patterns and frequently featured wings, horns, tails, fierce teeth, and bulgy eyes.
Linares' unique creations were discovered by a gallery owner in Cuernavaca, Mexico and have since been exhibited around the world. Linares received Mexico's National Prize for Popular Arts and Traditions (Premio Nacional de Ciencias y Artes en la Rama VI, Artes y Tradiciones Populares) for his work. Linares' sons and grandsons carry on in Pedro Linares' tradition and have become sought-after artists in their own right.
Sculpting Papier Mache Alebrijes
The artist first builds a frame for the sculpture out of reed or wire. Dry newspaper is sometimes taped to the frame to build up areas before the papier mache is applied. Once the artist is satisfied with the basic shape of the piece, sheets or strips of paper are glued on in layers using a homemade, flour-based paste. Additional elements such as horns and tails are often constructed separately and affixed to the sculpture once it is dry. The entire piece is painted with a white base coat, and then decorated using bright colors and is completed. Usually delirious, and they have the tendency to inhabit your dreams once you see them...
Great museums, esp. the National Museum of Anthropology, where we spent five hours and got through half of the first floor. Amazing pieces from every place in Mexico.
Although it has been rainy, it is quite comfortable, and looking like the weekend will be sunny for Dias de los Muertos. Thinking of taking the bus to Mixquic on Monday. The PantéonCivil de Dolores, just up the street is huge, so planning a couple of days there.

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