Day 9 San Cristobal De Las Cases

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This morning was the most facinating part of the trip so far when we visited the communities of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan in the highlands of Chiapas, near San Cristobal. While both are Maya descendants they have very different mystic traditions and are immediately identifiable by the colour and style of their traditional clothing. Chamulans wear black & white while Zinacantans wear multi-coloured dress with intricate flower motifs.

Zinacantans work as a collective selling arts & crafts, fruit & vegetables for 10% with the rest goes into a pool with the seller also getting a share of the pool whereas Chamulans don't share.

The churches & customs are another point of difference but unfortunately no photos allowed. While the outsides are the same Spanish style construction & the inside include alters & statue's of God, Mary & saints they then incorporate their own Mayan traditions. Both have curtains hanging from the roof in the shape of a pyramid. Zinacantans religious statue's are all dressed in colourful ribbons representing rays of the sun which is the centre of all Mexican indigenous cultures.

The Zinacantans seem more accepting of the Catholic rituals with hymns etc although the tune being sung while we were there was the same tune as Bob Dylan's "blowing in the wind". The Chamulans are very much opposed & would attempt to kill a priest if attempting to enter.

The Chamulan ritural is very different sitting around on the marble floor of the church & strewen with pine needles. The needles represent nature, as it continues to exist before life & after death. The families light coloured candles with the colours representing health, purity death etc & they may also consult a charman. Just as well we didn't get to see the next part but they walm hen eggs and use them to rub on their body to clean & absorb sickness & then sacrifice roosters for their health. As they are vegetarians they don't eat the meat & feed it to dogs.

Afterwards they drink a highly potent alcohol called Posh, (made from cane & maise) at 98% proof (only 38% for the Zinacantans) however we could see they were getting started during proceedings and give it to their children as young as babies. The irony is that the proceedings are aimed towards health but they are destroying themselves with drink. These practices occur daily & a family unit could go twice a week if someone was unhealthy. The government provides free health to discourage these practices but they still practice their beliefs.

San Cristobal is one of Mexico’s best preserved colonial towns, full of brightly painted houses and narrow one way cobble streets. Cars are restricted to some of the best streets & has a real bohemian atmosphere with wall to wall restaurants, cafes, bars, shops and artisans’ markets.

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Photos

Morning tea being prepared
Mayans have arranged marriages but not before ladies can prove they can cook & men must prove the are good farmers.