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Published: August 7th 2007
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Hola everyone! Hope everyone is good and well - big love comin at ya! We are nearly at the end of our tour of Mexico and are currently, as of today 29th May, at Tulum in the Yucatan Peninnsular (by the beach again for a final 2 weeks of fun). So just wanted to get you upto date with what we have been upto - I am posting 2 x blogs in quick succession as the blog site is referenced by location for other travellers to look up whats happening where, so hope you don't mind the spam.
Mexico is a massive country and we have been trying to find places of unusual interest on our journey to the Yucatan and we certainly couldn't have hoped for a more insightful look into the indigenous mayan culture than a trip to San Cristobal De Casas. We headed out of Oaxaca City by night coach and journeyed further into the mountains to a whopping 7000ft above sea level this time and the temperature on arrival was chilly to say the least - we had to get the jumpers out of the bag for the first time of the trip! San Crisobal is
yet another picturesque little town nestled in the surrounding mountains, it's architecture again heavily influenced by the spanish invaders. We had read that there is a very unique Catholic Church in Chamula (a small village outside San Cristobal) where there hasn't been a regular service for over 300yrs as the local indians still worship the old gods and spirits, which involves the use of Coca Cola (yep you read it right) to burp and purge themselves of evil spirits. It sounded too good to be true so after checking into the lovely Hotel Margarita (which was very central and good value) we booked a tour with the on-site travel agents to visit this oddity the very next day.
We set out early the next morning with Alberto as our guide who was exceptionally well informed and was known amongst the locals in Chamula, which allowed us a fly on the wall perspective of these peoples customs and way of life. We started the tour of the village and were shown around a local Mayan Holy Lady house that had been turned into a shrine of worship to the spirits. I must note that customs in this village dictate that
the taking of photgraphs in some areas and of some holy folk is strictly prohibited - our guide was quick to tell us to stop clicking at any point he felt was not wise - this made you feel very wary of taking photos at all in case you incensed a local (they are known to destroy camera's and confiscate equipment). The shrine had what looked like clay camels with candles burning in there humps pointing inwards to a picture the Lady of Guadelope (Mexico's paitron saint), this was enclosed behind wreaths of corn that hung from the ceiling and created a curtan wall of dried fauna that we were allowed access into. It was dark and there were scatterings of pine needles on the floor, insence was being burned and the smoke was wafting upwards towards the spirits. (Claire bravely shot a quick picture! - I dare not having already lost one camera..). All the time we were being carefully watched by the Mayan Holy Lady.
Once outside again Alberto our guide explained the importance of the crops to the locals and sybiosis of the corn, squash and bean plants all grown together - the tall corn plant
giving the beans a stalk to run up and providing shade for the cultivation of squash. He also explained in detail several meanings for the Mayan Cross (which actually predates the Christian Cross although looking very similar) The Mayan Cross is usually painted green and has an image of the Sabre Tree running up its vertical axis. The meanings given forth are as follows - Firstly they are directions for the cardinal points ie. North, South, East, West. Secondly it is a visual representation of our solar system in the galaxy (which apparently is a vertical solar system in a horizontal galaxy) and thirdly it represents the overworld or heavens (being the tip of the cross), the earth (being the horizontal axis) and the underworld (lower vertical) leading always into a plinth which allows offerings to the spirits of each.
I must clearly state that Alberto was known to the locals and was extremely knowledgeable of the local customs and as such we had a very rare glimpse into these local peoples lives. After ingesting all this information we were taken into the village centre and were allowed entrance to the so called 'Coke Church'. Before coming to Chamula
we had read online that the locals use Coca-Cola or Pepsi or any other soft drink to burp and purge spirits from their being. Now let me put this straight - Alberto is a local and he told us in no uncertain terms that it is a popular misconception - the soft beverage is used only for energy (although there were certainly lots of bottles stacked outside peoples houses in the village- to the extent that you wondered if the locals are sponsored by the mega-corps). So with that one whimsy out of the way we entered into the ethereal church. This is the one main area that you can NOT take photgraphs. It's hard to put into words the feeling of walking into a fully decorated church - that is instantly not like any other you are gonna walk into. Locals sat down in family groups or solitary, on a pine needled floor amid an ocean of candles, I mean thoudsands of candles - no pews or seats just a wide open area for the locals to amass offering chants and wails whilst lighting more candles. Carvings in guilted gold of the saints adorned the walls of each side
of the church as we were offered (pre-warned by our guide what it was) a clear, rum tasting alcohol which is used to get into the spirit of things so to say. We took our time to move amongst the congregation and true to Alberto's word I witnessed no belching or excessive consumption of the soft stuff. It is a spectacle to be sure and one you are just dying to take a photo of purely for its unique quirkyness - a fully adorned catholic church being used for an un-christian purpose - lit solely by thousands of candles of all shapes and sizes - priceless!
After the church we were taken to another nearby village and into the family home of some textile weavers utilising age old equipment and technology to produce stunning bags, clothes purses the lot. Sheeps wool makes the majority of the clothing around these parts and because of this its considered sacred - no lamb for sunday lunch here I'm afraid! We were allowed to take photo's and were lucky enough to be shown the authentic way of making tortillas - pressed out with a wooden press and cooked on a woodfire atop a
flat limestone plate. We sampled the resulting tortillas with locally produced cheese and salsa - hmmm tasty. That just about rounded our day trip off - very informative to say the least and thoroughly recommended.
Well thats it for San Cristobal de Casas we headed off the next evening for the mysterious and enigmatic Mayan site of Palenque.
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