'Ruin Hopping Taxi Tourists,' or 'Six Ruins in Two Days'

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Our journey to Xpujil (shpoo-heel) was absolutely first class. We commissioned a tour outfit to drive us from Campeche and show us ruins along the way, as an alternative to yet another day on the bus.

First stop was Ednza (en-za). Without a doubt, one of the biggest and best restored sites we've seen on the trip. One feature that really stands out is how much open space. Another nice thing was that there were perhaps a half dozen people scattered amongst the massive area. Restoration work is ongoing, so we were able to peek in on some of the actual effort that goes into shaping a grown over pile of rubble into the impressive pyramids and complexes that make up the ancient Maya cities. To date, much of it is done by hand, one brick at a time.

After an hour and a half wandering around in the sun and humid air we were thankful for the A/C and to be making some miles for a new destination. And more ruins. For the remainder of the drive we left an actual taxi and hopped into the tour guide's taut little dark grey Volkswagen Derby. Next was Hochob, a small three building complex rich in detail and decoration. Most memorable is how rich the main temple's detail and colour remains to date. From there we made some miles to a rustic Mayan village comprised mostly of ramshackle concrete buildings and thatched roof huts. The kids looked happy if the dogs were a bit skinny. Just past the village, we visited another small ruin called Dzibilnocac (see-BILL-no-kak). Here it was no stretch to see that there was much work yet to be done to excavate the remaining ruins. Perhaps the most prominent feature was the 360 degree panorama of the region from the top of the temple. Although it was a brief look we both noted that it was interesting to see the Mayan people today in contrast to what it must have been like in their ancient past.

Passing through the Xpujil area on the way to our hotel, Rio Bec Dreams, our driver attempted to take us to another ruin (Becan) but it was closed for the day. Good thing too, because it was a huge site and the day was getting long.

When we arrived, we found that there was the most absolutely perfect little jungalows (as they're called) for a very reasonable rate. They have a sink but no running water, and use a shared bathroom and shower. The larger jungalow has a desk and its own toilet, while cabanas are self-contained with private showers. Because the property is in the jungle it really doesn't take much time to feel surrounded by the flora and fauna, even if the road is near enough to hear traffic whizzing by in the night. Since we've been in the country we haven't slept more soundly.

While dining on some toothsome fare at the hotel we met some fast friends and some intrepid travelers. Fresh salsa and tortillas that you could live on, mango yogurt we can't compare and succulent chili to name a few. The friends, a family of Jack Russell terriers comprised of a pair of long-legged parents -- one short haired and the other long haired -- with four two-month old puppies. They were insufferably cute, and Jenny was pining to take one or two home. Among the sightseers were a trio of couples; European honeymooners who kept to themselves, Californians who were on a vacation from work, and Candian retirees enjoying their twilight years. The Canucks were moving their stuff from a home in Florida to a new property in Belize that they'd purchased and had plans for a fruit orchard with a guest cabana. It was great hearing about different places like Japan and SE Asia on one side and camping all the way from near the Bay of Fundi through Florida down through Belize.

The next day we went to three separate ruin sites: Chicanna, Xpujil, and Becan. The first two were both impressive in their own way but the latter really stole the show in it's impressive power. An obvious military power, Becan was surrounded by a moat in its heyday well over a millennium ago. One sight to see was an intact limestone false arch sidewalk that was expansively long. Near the end of the day I saw a toucan with a large green beak out of the corner of my eye, but alas it was too quick of a glance to get a lift my camera let alone focus or get a photography. Oh well, it was a nice sight so that when it was squawking away out of sight elsewhere I at least knew what he looked like. Exploring so many ruins offered plenty of time to climb and photograph and be photographed. It was a terrific day spent in the sun and jungle with the ruins decaying but alive at the same time.

Among many of the ruins highlights were the passageways and different rooms which would have held the elite, and climbing to the top of one particularly treacherous escarpment. Jenny even climbed to the top of a narrow and nearly vertical staircase which was about as claustrophobic as one could imagine. The views from the highest points on the temples were expansive and green. All over the surfaces were random remnants of detail from the temple's original state, bits of colour here and carved hieroglyphs there, plants carving out a living in cracks and the occasional lizard making claim to a random hole in the base or wall.

That evening everyone had checked out and we had the place to ourselves, though not for long. A delightful Aussie couple who'd retired and were finishing a year-long world trip checked in, and before long we'd once again chatted the night away. Turns out they'd been touring the Yucatan (right from Cancun) basically a day or two behind us and it was interesting to compare stories. Seems as though the day after the World Heritage celebration in Campeche they also noticed a lady who was relentlessly barking a sales pitch for -- among other things -- lottery tickets and "arroz con leche" (rice pudding) through a vehicle-mounted loudspeaker. We had a good chuckle about that, especially when Tim asked our server if rice pudding was on the desert menu.

More next from our next day we spent at a mega-ruin, deep in the jungle at Calakmul, located about 35 km from the Guatemalan border in a Biosphere reserve and World Heritage Site of the same name.

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Photos

Ednza I
Jenny beside a wall decoration in a courtyard.

Ednza II
The Gran Acropolis at Ednza.

Ednza III
A Mayan long-count calendar afoot the tallest temple in the Gran Acropolis.

Ednza IV
The ball court at Ednza.

Hochob I
The main temple.

Hochob II
One of two towers in similar condition at Hochob that offer sweeping views from each of their north and south facing rooms.

Hochob III
After a short jaunt up a rare hill in the Yucatan you're right amidst the ruins in its small courtyard.

Jungalo Tigre
For three nights this was our home, set in tranquil surroundings where the sounds of the jungle and the depth of the stars really envelop you at night.

One of a Litter
This was the shyest puppy of the litter at Rio Bec Dreams, but gave the best picture.

Chicanna I
Very common theme amongst Maya temples, Chaac, the rain god.

Chicanna II
A very well preserved ruin, though small, rich in detail.

Chicanna III
There was a lot of colour still on this temple.

Chicanna IV
This doorway was not only contained history of the city in the hieroglyphs but it looks like a gaping mouth.

Chicanna V
There was a lot to process at this site, with the lush surroundings.

Chicanna VII
A well preserved cistern that still contains water... possibly even potable.

Chicanna VIII
A small butterfly that was interesting in that the pink on the side of the wings when closed are red when open.

Xphuil I
Main temple with its decayed though discernible false staircases going up the towers.

Xpuhil II
Stairway going up the south tower, very steep and close.

Xpuhil III
Looking north from the top of the stairway in the south tower.

Xpuhil IV
At the base of the main towers.