Historical Quebec


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North America » Canada » Quebec » Québec City
June 15th 2011
Published: June 21st 2011
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The road from Montreal to Quebec is pretty boring. Because the winters are so fierce, and Spring comes late, there was an absence of Spring Flowers on our route through the flat countryside. Near Montreal there were lots of farms, but further north it was mostly coniferous forest by the roadside. And on the way into Quebec, summer deserted us - presumably it hasn't got this far north yet. The coach party were shocked when we alighted from the coach in summer dresses and shorts into damp conditions with the temperature a chilly 12 degrees. Later, though, we were graced with bright spring sunshine, so no damage was done. (Though, Diane, our guide, explained that Quebec 'enjoyed' only two seasons - Winter and July.)

Quebec should hold a special place in our hearts. Because it was there that Britain achieved its finest moment of over-achievement. The defeat of the French left our ancestors with practically the entire North American continent to ourselves - just two years after we had added India to our trophy cabinet. For our victory in Quebec, the Brits sneaked up the St Lawrence river in the dark and then attacked the French from the rear after scaling the heights of Abraham. The battle lasted 20 minutes. (Unlike baseball in Toronto, the match was over even before the break for commercials!)

After our obligatory tour of the battlefield of 1759, Mary and I found a local creperie for lunch. Pancakes with Maple Syrup - delicious! We specially liked the murals painted on the renovated buildings in the Old Town, the only walled city in N America and the only place we encountered in Canada that wasn't set out on a grid system. The residential homes on the outskirts of the old town were lavishly opulent, but in a very tasteful way.

Unfortunately, our hotel was in the service area of town, away from the tourist haunts. Bit like a motel really! Actually, we would have liked to stay at the Chateau Frontenac for the night (or two or three nights) but we haven't had any success in the lottery recently. We did manage to wander round the public rooms of the chateau, meeting many employees in 18th century costumes. (They were generally entertaining groups of schoolchildren who were preparing to enact the 1759 battle. Even in these enactments, though, the Brits won every time!)

Mary and I got into a conversation with an earnest English-speaking local about the merits of the Anglican church. Mary and he got on very well. Of course, I had to spoil it a bit by bringing gay bishops into the conversation.

For our evening meal, our hotel offered a set menu for 26 dollars each. Bargain, after the expensive indulgences of eating out in style in Toronto and Montreal.

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