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Published: September 12th 2005
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Canadian flag over Lachine canal, Montreal
This canal was built to go around the rapids in the St. Lawrence River. It became obsolete when the St. Lawrence Seaway wascompleted. On a rainy Saturday, August 20th, we drove north from Burlington, Vermont to Montreal. When we crossed into Quebec, suddenly everything seemed French. There were little stone cottages with the curved roofs, road signs in French only, and casual care of the roads. They did not give out free maps of Quebec. They are for sale in the gas stations. Rather than buy one (since we were there a little more than one day), we "fudged it ", with a bike road map and maps from the USA (which of course do not show you much of the roads in Quebec).
We went through Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, and by Canal de Chambly, (somehow), where there are bike paths along many roads. We ended up in Boucherville (by accident). But here serundipity took over!
Boucherville was the most charming, restored French town I have ever seen. It was along the east shore of the St. Lawrence River, not far from Montreal. We had dinner in a very fine, "La Barca" Italian restaurant, overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Again, bike paths were all along the river. We decided we would have to come back to this area another time, to enjoy these special
A lock on Lachine Canal, Montreal
A family going through the locks on a Sunday outing. places. Saturday night was spent at Day's Inn, Boucherville.
The next morning, we drove to Montreal. It is possible to tour the whole city of Montreal by bicycle, but we only had an afternoon. That was enough to see quite a bit of Montreal. We rode along the canal on a sunny, Sunday afternoon, when many locals were enjoying the city also. We stopped at a market that reminded me of an organized "Strip District" all in a very large, old market building. Then we rode along the rapids in the St. Lawrence River, making about a 27 mile loop back to the car.
Getting off of the highways, and onto back roads we made it to Cornwall, Ontario, on the St. Lawrence River. We stayed in the Monte Carlo Motel, one of those sixtyish places that the owners have worked on for years, caring for it well, but never completely updating. I have learned to appreciate their care. It was a very prosperous little town, with a bike path all along the St Lawrence River. It felt British again. Monday morning We rode our bikes for another 20 miles along the river, before we continued driving west
Old market in Montreal
Everything was very clean, all signs in French. to the bridge crossing over to Ogdensberg, NY. (Ontario visitor's centers do give out free maps),
We stopped briefly in Alexandria's Bay, a tourist town where the boats depart for Thousand Island tours. Again staying on the back roads, we drove to Cape St. Vincent, NY. on Lake Ontario. Monday night we stayed in the Buccaneer Motel, Cape St. Vincent, along the lake. Being late in the afternoon, we took our bikes for a ride out to the light house, and to explore the town. It was a very quiet, lovely ride. At the lighthouse we talked with the manager of the hostel which is a part of the lighthouse complex. We also rode around the small town and took pizza and beer back to the motel for dinner, balancing it on our bikes! This was much more fun than a "shop-til-you-drop" town (at least we think so.)
On Tuesday we continued on the back roads. We found a peninsula , with quiet roads and small cottages all along Lake Ontario. We parked our car at a small, golf course, and rode another 20 mile loop among scenery just as lovely as anything we have ever seen. We
had a late lunch overlooking the golf course before continuing on.
In Ithaca, NY we visited my cousins, Bob and Betty Armstrong, Justin and Joel. They have a 20 acre farm, where they grow their own food, and raise goats, etc. We had a simple dinner straight from the garden. Just dug potatoes, just picked corn and chard with organic yogurt and cheese. We enjoyed every bite. Betty was recovering from a bicycling crash 2 weeks before. A concussion and broken collar bone had put her in the hospital for 3 days. She doesn't remember how it happened. (She was wearing a helmet). Jim and I ride carefully, but this was a reminder to pay attention!. Justin is building his own boat, and hopes to sail it around the world, beginning at The Finger Lakes. On Tuesday we stayed at the Best Western in Ithaca.
We made it back home on Wednesday evening, in time to welcome Karen( Jim's daughter), Brook and Sarah(grandaughter) on Thursday afternoon. Thinking back on this trip and the week before in Vermont, we remember many enjoyable good times.
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Bruce Sundquist
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Bike Highway?
Was that a 2-lane bike path I saw in one of the photos? -- complete with centerline, presumably dashed when you are allowed to pass slow-moving traffic.