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Published: September 13th 2007
The Bay of Fundy
Shazza taking in the sea airSo from Saint John, New Brunswick, Shazza and I took the coast road around the Bay of Fundy. Sick of all the straight highways, Shazza loved getting onto some curved ocean roads. Famous for having the world's highest tides, the bay had some interesting coastline features, like "flower-pot islands". That night we finally made it to Halifax, thus successfully completing our west to east coast journey.
The hostel that night was one to forget- I was given a top bunk, right next to a sun-rising window with no curtains and a mattress filled with sand. The shower only had enough water pressure to trickle against the wall, and the toilet seat was not attached to the bowl. It made my decision to only stay one night there.
After spending the morning looking around the compact port-city of Halifax, we headed south-west to the postcard fishing village of Peggy's Cove. A small rocky bay, surrounded by small fishing shacks, a small jetty stacked with lobster pots and white lighthouse on the point, completed the movie-like scene. Unfortunately the handful of buses and wondering tourists with bum-bags took the magic away. Luckily for me though, I took a turn off on
Mail box
Maritime style the way back down to a very similar village, but with only a couple of locals walking through the dirt streets. The lighthouse in this village was replaced by a white-spire church in the middle of town. It was the exact scene that people described the Maritimes being like.
On the word there was an epic coastal road in the far north, we drove all afternoon up to Cape Breton Island. Essentially a cape with a small causeway crossing, it is the heart of Nova Scotia's traditional Gaelic area. After the experience the night before, I lashed out on a B&B in the lovely lake-side town of Baddeck. My nautical-themed room and bathroom overlooking the lake was a far cry from that hostel. The local entertainment in town that night was a Ceilidh (kay-lee) at the local town hall. Basically a Scottish sing & dance-a-long, it was pretty funny watching all the retirees square-dancing to the violine and piano music.
The next day we spent cruising along the famous 'Cabot Trail' through Cape Breton Island National Park. Canada's equivalent of Victoria's 'Great Ocean Road' or California's 'Highway 1', this road not only wound its way around the coastline,
but also up and over mountains as it went. One of them is a small ski resort in winter, even though it sits right on the coast. Small fishing villages break up the otherwise deserted stretches all the way up to 'Meat Cove' on the North Cape. I think its name must have been from describing what humans are to the resident sand-flies that maul you as soon as you get out of your car. In the evening I did a walk called the 'Skyline Trail', which takes in some of the best coast views in the park and is renowned for the large number of moose in the area. It didn't disappoint with a mum and calf grazing on the trail on the way in, and then a big bull around 15 metres away on the way back out. After night in the 'Pleasant Bay' local hostel, we headed off early to finish the rest of the trail and head towards another island. As we made our way south through small coastal towns, most selling traditional Gaelic crafts, a pod of pilot whales were swimming down the coast.
Back onto the mainland, we headed straight for the ferry
Rear-view sunset
Heading into Nova Scotia to Prince Edward Island (or just PEI to most). It was the first time Shazza has actually got a lift from something else and she loved it (it was also her first time at sea, so she felt a little sick). I arranged to meet up with a local group I met on the train from Jasper to Vancouver back in April. They lived on the other end of the island, so after a quick look at the island's capital- Charlottetown, I drove across to meet up with them. A small, green island with a main export of potatoes and locals that speak with a twang and extend their R's (like barrr), it almost felt like Ireland. The most famous tourist spot on PEI is the house that 'Anne of Green Gables' was set on. While it doesn't mean much to me, they estimate 10-15,000 Japanese alone make the trip across to see this house. After looking at it briefly and laughing at the hotels, tours and amusement parks that have gone up around it, we took a quick look at Cavendish Beach, before having a BBQ and drinks for dinner. All was going well with the game of poker
Tug Boat
Halifax harbour that we played afterwards, until one of the couples broke out into a huge domestic fight in front of us. It turned out he had caught her cheating on him 2 weeks ago and thought we should all hear about it- at 2 in the morning.
The next morning I left PEI via one of the world's longest bridges (13kms) back to New Brunswick, then into Quebec and navigated my way through the French road signs into Quebec City. It was amazing that driving for 3 days in Eastern Canada felt like I started in the Scottish Highlands, before heading across to Ireland, and now ended up in a small French city. And the distances are probably pretty similar too.
As soon as you enter Quebec City and drive through the outer walls of Old Town, you are blown away by the classic old buildings and streets. Thin, cobblestone roads are flanked on either side by houses, pubs and restaurants, most with vibrant colours and all with French signage. The stunning buildings like the Chateau Frontenac, the post office and churches are all contained within the high stone walls, lined with cannons. The city was fought over on
Peggy's Cove
With the crowds hidden several occasions between the French who settled it and the English who finally conquered it, but the name is derived from an old Indian name, meaning 'where the river narrows'. It’s like stepping into a European city as you walk around the compact downtown being greeted with "bonjour". The limit of my French vocabulary extends to (in a yobbo Aussie accent) "civil-play" and "mercy-boocoo", but the locals are happy if you just have a try.
I had 2 nights in Q.C., taking in the wonderful sights of Old Town and tasting the great local food. I visited The Civilisations and French- American Museums to find out more about the history of the city, as well as the intricate Notre Dame Basilica Cathedral. The whole of Old Town feels like one big museum with its history, architecture and even random things like a cannon ball wedged in a tree from an old battle!
Last night I drove south, past Montreal and out to a chalet-hostel (with a sauna) in the Laurentians Hills area. This morning we drive out to look at the east coast's most famous ski resort town of Mount Tremblant, which is to Montreal what Whistler is
The lighthouse
On the point of Peggy's Cove to Vancouver. The big resort is well set up with a charming village and is within close range of the city.
I am now in Montreal and will be picking my bro Jimmy up from the airport in a few hours from his flight from Toronto. I can't wait to see him again after a year and a half. I'm also a bit nervous as it’s the first time Shazza has met a member of my family, and Jimmy had a similar tough parting with his old car when he left for OS, so it might bring up some memories for him. We will then pick up Luke and head over to Boston and then New York for a few weeks.
From every state and province we've stayed in, I've bought a sticker to put on Shazza's back window. It’s like her badges of honour she earns for "conquering" a new state or province. Like a girl guide would earn and display her patches, Shazza wears the stickers with pride. We may have completed out coast to coast journey, but we certainly don't win any prizes for the most direct crossing of the continent. With the distance we've
Maritime Shoreline
Through Shazza's window covered- if we had've driven on the main Trans-Canada Highway, we could have driven 2.5 times across the continent, or from Vancouver-Halifax-Vancouver and halfway back again (to Winnipeg)!
Distance Travelled So Far: 9,000 miles
Spanish Known at This Point: It's been all French lately!
French Known at This Point: Vous ètes de ceux qui font leur chamin dans la vie (you are one of the people who "goes places in life") Taken from my fortune cookie tonight- I'm not sure if it means I'm going to do great things, or just travel.
Horoscope for the Week:
Taurus (April 20- May 20)
"The presence of Mercury in your sign can only mean one thing: The stars have officially run out of euphemisms for discussing your monthly menstruation."
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Linds
non-member comment
Aussie Tom! Glad to see that the East Coast is treating you well, its definitely a beautiful place, hey? Quite differerent from good 'ol Van City. I am also happy to hear that your brother is going to be joining you sooner rather than later...I am slightly concerned about your "relationship" with the car. I noticed in the last blog there were a whole lot of "we's" in the last entry! Great pics as per usual! xo linds