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Published: September 13th 2013
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Peggy's Cove
Click on this one. We amazed ourselves at how much we packed into one day!
Matthew, our motel/B&B host and chef in Yarmouth, did indeed fix us a "special" breakfast as promised. When we walked into the lobby he escorted us to a beautifully prepared table for two. There were eleven different kinds of fruit on our plate. Matthew is very proud of his culinary presentation skills and even though it was just scrambled eggs, ham and a boiled then pan fried potato, after he expounded on the "purity of his ingredients" I was intimidated enough to not ask for hot sauce. But it was a great way to start the day, loved Matthew's choice of guitar music, too.
We followed the Lighthouse Trail (Highway 3) all the way to Cape Sable Island and the southernmost point in Nova Scotia to do some birding. Joe added zero life birds and very few birds were to be seen at all in this "Important Bird Area" even after stopping in several areas. Joe spent a long time talking with the lady at the tourist information office in Clark's Harbour. We were interested in her husband's lobster fishing business and her son's job as an Irish
Breakfast in Yarmouth
Chef Matthew fussed over us. Moss harvester. She asked Joe to sign the guest book and after she looked at his info she told us she was very surprised that we could be from the USA because Joe was so friendly and bubbly and interested in Nova Scotia. Hope he changed her mind a bit about people from the US. She didn't say one word about me and I thought I was nice, too, and I even bought some fudge.
The beaches in southern Nova Scotia are beautiful and even though it was a warm sunny day, the beach season is over and we were all by ourselves while walking on The Hawk. We spent some time talking with real live lobster fishermen as they repaired lobster traps. Wish we'd had the video camera going because they definitely spoke with a strong Nova Scotia accent. After we crossed the causeway back from Sable Island, at the recommendation of several locals we stopped at the Lobster Shack for our first lobster dinner (lunch) of the trip. $15 each, can't beat that deal! They wouldn't dream of boiling a lobster in NS, it must be steamed or fried. Ours were steamed and we both thought it
Breakfast at Lakelawn
11 kinds of fruit. Great coffee. was the best lobster we've ever had...not that we've had a lot. Came with garlic mashed potatoes, coleslaw, and salad. None of the locals were eating lobster, but had swordfish or fishcakes of pollock. It all looked good to us. Have to mention the bathrooms in this restaurant were labeled "Gulls" and "Buoys"...cute.
Back on the trail to see Lunenburg, a fishing village as lovely as they come. We looked in shops and admired the wharf where Joe was excited to see one of the last Salt Banker ships, the Theresa E. Connor. We made a quick stop in Mahone Bay to see what the Lonely Planet called the "prettiest village in Canada." Although it is pretty with its tree-lined harbor, we disagree, we've seen many much prettier.
It was getting late in the day but we had time to stop at the famous Peggy's Cove to get what we think are some nice photos and to climb around on the rocks. It was nice to have so few other people there, this place is very busy with tour buses in the summer.
We drove into Halifax in the dark and are staying at a Travelodge in
Clark's Harbor
Lobster Trap Bench Dartmouth a city just a few miles east of Halifax. Nova Scotia and maritime provinces are supposed to be hit with huge rains from Hurricane Gabriel tonight and tomorrow so we may stay in the Halifax area for a couple of days. There's plenty to do here, even in the rain. The zipper on my old suitcase ripped out today so our first stop tomorrow may be at Costco to buy a new one. It's going to be sad parting with that suitcase, we've gone a lot of miles together.
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Connie
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I love the colorful houses- not sure what I expected, they look like wooden blocks stacked on each other. By the way, I found a web site and ordered a lobster buoy birdhouse for Tere's birthday- he loved it, and is now trying to decide which tree at Dana's house will be adorned with it. I didn't realize how big a buoy is-