Unimaginable Toronto

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Once again, thanks to everyone who wrote a quick comment on my Winnipeg story. Writing back always takes time -- so I appreciate your messages, and I hope you keep replying. As the comments pile up on the "blog," we seem to be starting our own little 'discussion' group for family and friends. I think it's neat!

Toronto was surreal, but beautiful nonetheless! For those who are expecting an account of smog and awful smells, you will be disappointed.
The train gently rocked through a dense ravine on its way to Union station. It was like sliding through a rain forest, only there would be the odd apartment complex that would rise out of the foliage. According to a native Torontonian on-board, there are few pathways that run along the creeks and rivers in the valley. Everything lives and grows in the wild -- a mini oasis to greet passengers as they commute to the downtown core from Winnipeg (or Sudbury). For some reason, I expected what writer Hal Niedzviecki has called the "Concrete Forest" of Canada. To be fair, I did eventually hit the pavement, the gutters, the roar of the roads, the drenched air, and the smell of cooking oil in the streets. But, I did not expect the first "wild side" of the city to be, as it was for me: "pure wilderness"!
At night-time, the area around Union Station and Front Street feels more like an amusement park than like a city. If one goes with the flow, the wave of tourists will quickly wash you up to the front entrance to the CN tower. Because I only had three hours in T.O. before boarding a night-train to Montreal, I decided to settle down in an Italian restaurant rather than walk the glass floor of the city's famous landmark. As sweat poured down my brow, I ordered a Mediterranean dish (how appropriate, given the weather!). I sat on the patio, thinking that I might cool off. One can eat inside or outside; but the heat will follow you to your table.
Suddenly, the pace of the city changed. It was like someone, somewhere, had pushed a throttle to "maximum speed." The doors to the ball-park by the Tower swung open. Men, women and children marched out with plastic horns and painted faces. Taxis were double- and triple- parking on Front Street. The chorus of voices grew louder. Thousands of shoe heels hit the side-walks like hail and rain. But, the steady stream of hyper-active fans slowly dispersed. People would either swing into polished cars at a nearby lot, or they would vanish into the corridors of the metro stations. By the time the bill arrived for my meal, someone must have returned the throttle back to "normal speed." I could safely step back onto the street without worrying about a mini stampede.
I waited patiently in what seemed like the boiling catacombs of Toronto's train station. We were ushered up a moving ramp to VIA's new Renaissance cars. I think this was a fitting name for an over-night train: "renaissance" or "re-birth." The seats are like space-aged cradles that float above the platform of the car.
I probably should have experienced a rebirth on my way to Montreal. Indeed, this is how the marketing department at VIA describes the high speed journey on the Renaissance cars. However, the train agent (a.k.a the guy on the train who walks around helping passengers) forgot to turn off the loudspeaker before he went to bed. Every fifteen minutes, there would be a loud gtttchhhhhhh sound.
I overheard a more accurate description of the trip from a woman behind me on the train. This was the true meaning of "Renaissance" that day:
"Riding this train is like giving birth to a child. You are kicking and screaming and waiting for it to end. But, when it is all over, part of you just can't wait to 'hop on board' and do it all over again."
I laughed, and fell asleep for an hour before waking up in Montreal.

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Comments

[Margo]

inspiring
Everett, As always your writing is both poetic and informative. The last time I took a train trip across Canada, passenger service was normative and often cheaper and more convenient than other modes of travel. Your journey is inspiring me to consider taking such a trip myself, especially since I want to return to the Maritimes next year and spend considerably more time there than I have done. Make sure you look for Cow's ice cream in the Maritimes!! Et dites "bonjour" a Montreal pour moi; c'est de belle ville! Margo

[joanie]

descriptions!
Very creative pictures of the trip so far!! Sounds loke you see and hear things others would not even notice!!Well done!!

[Glenda MOM]

TravelBlog is Great!
Really enjoying your stories Everett....as Margo said they are poetic and informative. It is great to be able to read others comments. Of course, my memorable train trip across Canada was when I was 6 yr. old (1953), with family, to pick up a new car (Hudson). My job was to make sure I told the "conductor" that I was 5 yr. old, not 6, as the price of the trip went up when you were 6! Have fun! This is a great way to keep in touch. Love MOM

[Robert (dad)]

passing through
My trips to Toronto have been on my way to somewhere else. I did go once to a Grey Cup game (with Glenda MOM). Have a picture taken at the base of the CN Tower that digitized our image and used the alphabet to reproduce it with a computer printer. wonder what that stat of the art person is doing now.