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Published: June 13th 2017
Geo: 45.2734, -66.0641
Day 7 – The Road Less Traveled
Saint John, New Brunswick
Farewell to Maine. Twice.
We checked out of the Harborside Hotel early. I asked if there were coffee in the lobby and they told me there was a coffee bar in the coffee shop. I helped myself and was told I owed $3. Yikes. For the price per room, certainly a go-cup of coffee could be complimentary.
We drove north to US1, stopping at a grocery store near Bar Harbor for breakfast snacks. There I found that they sold Tab! Oh, joy! Who needs coffee when there is Tab to be had??
On our agenda this morning was a drive along Schoodic Scenic Byway (ME-186) to Schoodic Point and its crashing waves. This is another section of Acadia NP. The park has parcels here and there, all across the Downeast portion of Maine. So we headed north and then down ME-186 to Gouldsboro, and on to Winter Harbor and Schoodic Point. We stopped several places along the way, including Frenchman Bay Scenic Overlook. This drive is even more spectacular that the one on Mount Desert Island. Take a look below. Unfortunately, we had fog, mist and even a little rain. So the photos are greys and blues, but it makes for something different.
Patrick and I agreed that driving the coast of Maine is a little like hitting all the red rock parks in Utah and Arizona, a trip we did one fall. After a week of Sedona, Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion, etc., we were a little "red rocked" out. Same is true for Maine. Rocky shorelines that were breathtaking a week ago have become a little ho-hum. Shame on us.
The rest of the day was devoted to what Maine refers to as its Historic BOLD Coast. Millbridge. Columbia Falls. Machias. Cutler. Lubec. In this area, there are a few cranberry bogs inland to break up the views of the rocky coast.
Columbia Falls was a quite a find. The town has some seriously beautiful Federal-period homes, including Ruggles House, built by Thomas Ruggles, between 1818-1820; he was head of the militia and first postmaster. Today the Ruggles House, a jewel of Federal design and Adam ornament, is the star of the area's preservation team.
Next up was Quoddy Head Light House, one of Maine's most recognizable, with its broad red stripes. This is the easternmost point of continental United States. It's
one of my faves.
We went another 5 miles north to the Canadian border and bid farewell to Maine (briefly) and entered Campobello Island, where FDR's cottage is located. (If you consider doing this, don't forget your passport!) It's a lovely home, with 18 rooms and six baths. But no heating/cooling, no phones and not even electricity. Light sources were fireplaces and kerosene lamps.
FDR first came here in 1893 with his parents, who loved the area and decided to purchase a place of their own. Later when he grew up and married, his parents bought him and Eleanor this cottage next door as a gift. The original home was in disrepair and was torn down in the 1950s. FDR spent much time here in his youth but visited only three times as President. And even then, only one night was spent in the house. The others were spent on a boat anchored nearby, easier for the Secret Service to secure and where there was electricity and phones.
We lunched at Family Fisheries on Campobello at the recommendation of a friend. There was a huge lobster dominant in their signage. My friend posted her whole lobster lunch on Facebook when visiting in June.
And yet the word “lobster” wasn't even on the menu. “We ran out,” the waitress told us. They won't be serving lobster till next season. Really? Will I have to go “cold lobster” for the remainder of our trip?
PS -- I learned later that the various provinces have varying lobster fishing dates. New Brunswick's dates start in November.
We reentered Maine and headed north on US1 to cross into Canada by car. There was some confusion about times (when were we in Eastern Daylight Time and when in Atlantic Daylight Time – another hour ahead of St. Louis). And when could we use our GPS (because we were in Maine) and when not (because we were on roaming in Canada). Even when in Maine, my iPhone was showing “Rogers” in the upper left hand corner as the source of phone service, which is, of course, roaming.
We entered Canada the second time today -- and bid Maine farewell again -- at Calais, but not before stopping at the St Croix International Historic Site operated by the National Park Service. Saint Croix Island is the 1604 site of the first French attempt to colonize North America. Some 79 members of the expedition, including
Samuel Champlain (who later founded Quebec), passed the severe winter of 1604-1605 on the island. Because they couldn't commute to the mainland, they ran out of water and food; 35 settlers died. In spring 1605, the Passamaquoddy befriended the French and taught them survival skills. The colony moved and founded the settlement of Port Royal, in today's Nova Scotia. The site has bronze figures and historical placards depicting these events.
Patrick and I have had a division of labor on this trip. Because I did all the planning and knew much about where we were going and what choices we had as we went, he did the driving and I did the navigating. I felt badly that I wasn't carrying my share of the transportation responsibilities, but he was happy not to have to navigate. But when we entered Canada, I did the last leg of the drive. Mainly because there was no navigating. No GPS on our phones (or roaming data charges), only old fashioned maps and really good Canadian signage. We made it to Saint John, New Brunswick safe and sound.
Not that we needed more food – I think we have stored up enough for the winter –
but today was a VERY disappointing food day. We had a VERY sticky bun from a Bar Harbor grocery store for breakfast -- we went through quite a few wet wipes to clean our fingers and will need a laundry facility to clean the clothes. Lunch was a bowl of clam chowder instead of the whole lobster I had my heart set on in Campobello. And when we reached Saint John, I just wanted to sit in the room and relax, so we snacked on stuff from our cooler.
Our Maine adventure is complete. We loved it. It's a beautiful state and we are amazed we waited so long to visit. We would like to come back to New England some fall for the leaf peeping, and play golf along with way. SO many places and so little time.
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John Loomis
non-member comment
I am certain it is on your itinerary but don't miss the Reversing Falls at the Bay Fundy. It is spectacular. We have greatly enjoyed your trip blog. Very well done and interesting.