Cycling the Icefields Parkway - An epic adventure through the heart of the Canadian Rockies


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Published: October 26th 2012
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Having arrived back in Lake Louise after three days of hiking in Yoho NP on a sunday evening, I was due to set out on my five-day cycling trip from Lake Louise to Jasper along the famed Icefields Parkway the following morning. So this was it: judgment day. The reason I had gone through the logistical nightmare of bringing my nondescript hybrid bicycle with me from the highlands of Scotland to the ... Read Full Entry



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Leaving Lake LouiseLeaving Lake Louise
Leaving Lake Louise

Crossing the Trans Canada Highway on day one
230kms to go...230kms to go...
230kms to go...

The start of the Icefields Parkway
Roadside sceneryRoadside scenery
Roadside scenery

Passing Lower Waterfowl Lake on day two
Mistaya CanyonMistaya Canyon
Mistaya Canyon

Mistaya River carving a course through the canyon
The valley narrowsThe valley narrows
The valley narrows

Following the North Saskatchewan River on day three
Barren wastelandBarren wasteland
Barren wasteland

The flat valley floor below the Columbia Icefield
A fine way to end the dayA fine way to end the day
A fine way to end the day

Upper Sunwapta River valley - take one
A fine way to end the dayA fine way to end the day
A fine way to end the day

Upper Sunwapta River valley - take two
Looking backLooking back
Looking back

Halfway up the climb to the Big Bend
Looking aheadLooking ahead
Looking ahead

Halfway up the climb to the Big Bend
Almost time for a rest breakAlmost time for a rest break
Almost time for a rest break

Approaching the Big Bend
Picturesque parkwayPicturesque parkway
Picturesque parkway

Setting out from Beauty Creek on day four
Mirror imageMirror image
Mirror image

Snow-capped mountains reflected in the Sunwapta River
Faint backgroundFaint background
Faint background

Heading towards the Endless Chain ridge
Ribbon of waterRibbon of water
Ribbon of water

Stanley Falls, at the top of Beauty Creek gorge
Thundering cascade #1Thundering cascade #1
Thundering cascade #1

Lower Sunwapta Falls
Thundering cascade #2Thundering cascade #2
Thundering cascade #2

Athabasca Falls and Kerkeslin Mountain
Silent sentinalSilent sentinal
Silent sentinal

A lone pine tree beside the Athabasca River
Scenic rest breakScenic rest break
Scenic rest break

High above the Athabasca River valley
Scenic silhouetteScenic silhouette
Scenic silhouette

Sunset over the spray of Athabasca Falls
Flowing into the nightFlowing into the night
Flowing into the night

The Athabasca River at dusk



1st June 2015

Bear sightings along the road
Thanks for sharing about your adventure! I'm going to be cycling the Icefields Parkway this summer and am trying to read as many blogs/articles about it as possible to prepare myself. I see you wrote about 2 bear encounters, and I was wondering how you handled those situations? Did you bike past them; did you stop at a distance or try to scare them off before approaching; were they scared by your presence or did they ignore you?
1st June 2015

re: Bear sightings along the road
Hi Merissa! Firstly it is awesome that you are going to be cycling the Icefields Parkway this summer - it was definitely one of the best travel experiences of my life! You will love it!!! As for the bears, I really wouldn't worry about them. For starters, any bears that you do see along the Icefields Parkway itself will almost certainly have attracted a large crowd of spectators by the side of the road. They call it a 'bear-jam', and as soon as you come around a bend and see ten or more cars all parked on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere you will know that there is a bear there somewhere. The only time I had a more 'intimate' encounter with a bear was when I took Highway 94A back from Jasper heading south (it runs parallel to the Icefields Parkway for about 30kms between Jasper and Athabasca Falls, but on the other side of the valley) which is a MUCH quiter road. I first saw a grizzly bear along this road and in the 15 - 20 minutes that I spent watching it from the side of the road only three cars came past and stopped. A short time later I encountered a black bear right beside the road and in the 10 - 15 minutes that I spent observing it I don't recall a single car coming past. This was the only time I was a little worried because at times the bear was literally no more than five metres away from me (I really shouldn't have come so close, but it wasn't a particularly large bear) and could have attacked if it wanted to, but to be honest in this case as in all other bear encounters I had the bear seemed to be way more interested in the berries and leaves that it was snacking on than any humans who might have been around. Unless you plan on going for hikes off the road (which I would definitely recommend as well - but for which you need to be a little more careful and keep your wits about you) I really wouldn't worry about bears at all... there will most likely be at least twenty or thirty other people vying for the bear's attention whenever you see one! Just sit back (at a safe distance), observe, and enjoy!
1st June 2015

re: Bear sightings along the road
Sorry, it just occurred to me that you may not have read my follow-up blog from my return trip along the Icefields Parkway, which deals with the more intimate bear encounters that I referred to in my previous comment. It's called 'From Jasper to Lake Louise on Two Wheels and Two Feet'. Also has a couple of nice bear pictures I took from the saddle of my bicycle.
1st June 2015

Bear Sightings
Wow, thank you for the solid advice! I'm feeling much more at ease now as the wildlife was the only thing still making me a bit nervous for the trip. I figured there would be people stopped over to look, but it's relieving hearing it from someone who's actually done the trip - so thanks!! And I can't believe how close you were to that black bear, I'd be a bit freaked out, haha. I found and read your other blog as well and it was also a great read - good for you for cycling there and back on your own, sounds like it was an unbelievable adventure. The grocery bags hanging from the handle bars made me laugh, but I applaud your resourcefulness :P I am looking forward to getting out there and seeing the Canadian Rockies, so thanks again for sharing about your awesome trip - it makes it that much easier for those of us who have yet to do it!

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