Behramkale

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We were in Behramkale, a small town with a harbour.

The town sits 780 feet above sea level on the landward side of a hill. On the seaward side the ancient city of Assos spreads from top to bottom. Many of the ruins are still intelligible, particularly the large amphitheatre.

A helpful local spent 20 minutes with us pointing out the locations where daily life occurred 2500 years ago. The temple at the summit looks out across the sea to the Greek island of Lesvos as well as for miles along the Turkish coast.


We took a pension in the old town and set off for the harbour. It took an hour in the blazing sun to descend the hillside as the road zig-zagged to its conclusion.

The harbour was fully occupied by fish restaurants, all of which failed to display their prices - just the type of places we try to avoid. We sat on the harbour wall and lunched on a bag of Doritos and a bottle of pop with the water lapping around our feet as we contemplated the coming ascent.

It took another hour to climb back to the town (Linda is a one speed walker) with only the inspirational view to divert our minds from the heat and sweat.

The old town looks down onto the semi-arid plain, with a single road disappearing into the distance towards the nearest main town. The coastal road cuts through the centre of the town. From here it is only as short walk to the square where a tea house and a couple of restaurants are complimented by their panoramic views.


Jalal, the pension owner showed us around his garden. We ate plums straight from the tree (after rinsing) and a tasty fruit, much like a large blackberry, though from a thornless tree (any ideas?).

We ventured out onto the plain to investigate an old Ottoman bridge (14th C) visible from the hill top.

The bridge was in a fine (though possibly not original) condition. We stood aside as a herd of goats were shepherded down to the water. Underneath, the bridge was like an apprentice nature reserve. With each step taken along the waters edge a cluster of frogs would eject themselves from the algae towards safety. Fish lolled in the sunny patches apparently oblivious to each other, moving only with the lengthening shadows.

In the evening we took another walk past the city walls, originally 19 metres high, we were told, now possibly 8 metres in places. The quality of the workmanship of the granite blocks is still apparent, even though they were hewn around 500BC. The method used to interlock them can be deduced from the many individual blocks scattered around the grounds. This would have required cuts of wood whose certain decay may well have contributed to the walls collapse in high winds or under military assault.

There was a strident wind, difficult to stand in, each afternoon and evening of our visit.

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Photos

Old Bridge
View towards Behramkali