One Last Day in Istanbul

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Today everyone here was filled with excitement, not because it was my last day but because the Olympic torch was scheduled to pass through the city on its way to Beijing. This also prompted protests, notably one about boycotting the Olympics in order to "Save East Turkestan," not a cause I am familiar with.

I choose, however, to miss out on the communal excitement and focus on enjoying my last day here. I started off with one last visit to the Blue Mosque, followed by a too-short visit to the Archaeology Museum, where I saw, among many other things, what was reputed to be the world's first written love poem; mummies (I think I'll be getting my fill of those next week); and many giant stone (and one lead) tombs. Finally, having seen all the sights I intended to see on this trip to Istanbul, I was able to make my way to the Cagaloglu Hammam, the true focus of my last day in this fine city. I wanted to compare it to the other well-known hammam that I had visited earlier in the week for future reference - and for science, for the sake of all humanity, etc., etc. Of course, I really just wanted one final bath before Cairo, and what a place to do it. The facilities were nicer than the previous hammam: I got my own little cubicle with a bed for napping, tea service, and much spiffier wooden slippers; plus the staff was a bit more prepared and professional. Yet despite all that the bathing area wasn't as hot or as steamy, and I didn't feel that I could lie around as comfortably. In all fairness both hammams were quite nice, but I think I might have preferred the first one.

I had a few last errands to run before I could leave, and then sat down to spend my few remaining lira on tea and baklava at my favorite local teahouse, right outside the Grand Bazaar and filled with locals as well as a few tourists.

It's late and I still have to pack. Tomorrow morning I fly out of here to Cairo, via Rome. It might be a few days before I can write next because tomorrow night I am catching a train down to Luxor, and the next night I will be on a train to Aswan, from where I can visit Abu Simbel. I will return by train to Cairo three nights after tonight, and will try to write the following morning before departing for the Egyptian Museum, depending upon the facilities at my hotel. My goal is to undertake all of this with a hat, scarf, purse and no luggage. I'll let you know how it goes.

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