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Published: January 12th 2015
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Woolly says – it was a late start to the morning and by the time I had put on every piece of clothing I had bought with me breakfast was finished, having discussed the need for food and sustenance we decided to find somewhere on our way and set ourselves up for the day. Turkish breakfast and cay dealt with and the view outside leaving us all shuddering at the thought of what the conditions were going to give us I suggested one of Woolly’s favourite places from our previous visit to Istanbul, the Rahmi Koc Museum. Woolly says – she does have a good idea sometimes and taking the view that a lot of the exhibits were inside it was meet with eager head nodding from our fellow travellers, it’s just a shame she hadn’t checked it was open! One taxi ride later we found ourselves seated in the only open part of the museum the 1940’s French Coffee Shop, none of the staff could explain why the museum wasn’t open but with my basic Turkish I gathered that it was closed today and tomorrow, plan b needed. Woolly says – Hmmmm plan b, something inside hopefully! As I searched through our tourist information I spotted what appeared to be an ornate palace, now that must be inside, mustn’t it? Topkapı Palace was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for approximately 400 years (1465–1856) of their 624-year reign, which must have made the Sultans very, very old! As well as a royal residence, the palace was a setting for state occasions and royal entertainments. My suggestion was approved and to stop my paws from freezing completely a taxi was summoned to carry his Royal Woolliness to his Palace. As Woolly considered his royal duties we joined the queue to pay before going through the security gates and into the first courtyard. The palace complex consists of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings. It was home to as many as 4,000 people and covered a large area with a long shoreline. Construction began in 1459, by order of Sultan Mehmed II, the conqueror of Byzantine Constantinople and was originally called the New Palace (Yeni Saray) to distinguish it from the previous residence. It received the name "Topkapı" (Cannon Gate) in the 19th century. Woolly says – My first port of call was to the kitchens to see what snacks might still be available, with high chimneys and huge preparation areas it must have been incredible to work there when it was fully utilised. The display cabinets contained the biggest bowls and plates I have ever seen, you could have fitted a hundred mammoths onto some of them. As Jo fired up the camera and took her first shot a guard rushed over and shaking his head explained that there was no photography. I do understand why but as a tourist it’s a shame that you can’t take away some memories of such special places. As we read the information boards Woolly kept a running commentary going detailing the amount of food, staff and supplies that would have been needed to run this immense catering experience. Woolly says – Food was prepared for about 4,000 people. The kitchen staff consisted of more than 800 people, rising to 1,000 on religious holidays. As many as 6,000 meals a day could be prepared and Jo thinks it’s hard work feeding me! The kitchens would have also included dormitories, baths and a mosque for the employees, most of which have now disappeared. With the thought of food stirring my furry stomach I headed into the second courtyard and went to peer at The Gate of Felicity which is the entrance into the Inner Court also known as the Third Courtyard. This Courtyard was the private and residential areas of the palace and no one could pass through this gate without the authority of the Sultan. The gate was constructed under Mehmed II in the 15th century being redecorated in the rococo style in 1774 under Sultan Mustafa III. During special festivals and religious days the Sultan would sit on his throne in front of the gate, I could do that, Sultan Woolly, it has a pleasing ring to it! Despite reading everything there was one think was perplexing me why is it known as Felicity and who on earth was Felicity, answers on a pigeon please.
Next came the Treasury and having used elbows and paws to gain access it proved impossible to see anything in the cabinets for the hundreds of people crammed into the room. Woolly says – having kicked a few people in the process of getting in I gave up trying to see anything and contended myself with a snack break while the others fought their way round.
What little that could be seen but again not photographed had huge emeralds, rubies and diamonds decorating headwear which must have weighed a tonne and would certainly have given you a headache. The building itself was bland and impersonal with nothing to make it noteworthy at all. Woolly says – having given up on the treasury I guided my party into the armoury which had the added benefit of being toasty inside and the ability to actually see something. Swords taller than Jo lay gleaming on black velvet with pistols that must have taken years to engrave lying next to them, most impressive unlike the information, I mean how am I supposed to learn anything when the information is given as ‘Sword – 19th Century Europe’ it’s not helpful and certainly not informative and that with the lack of photography again left me feeling somewhat disappointed. Our final destination within the Palace complex was the Audience Chamber, also known as Audience Hall or Chamber of Petitions. Surrounded by a colonnade of 22 columns, supporting the large roof with hanging eaves, inside is the main throne room with a dome and two smaller adjacent rooms. The decoration was beautiful and certainly very regal, here the sultan would sit on a canopied throne and personally receive the viziers, officials and foreign ambassadors who presented themselves. I could just imagine me greeting my subjects from my throne, why haven’t I got a throne?
It was definitely the most impressive part of the whole place and with photos not barred it was worth taking a few snaps. With tired legs and paws, the temperature down below zero we hurried our little tribe of people back through the streets and into the warmth of Alice’s. As the staff greeted us like family and everything and anything we wanted arrived at the table we settled into celebrating the last night of the year and the dawning of a new one.
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