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Published: January 15th 2024
Constantinople
The breathtaking city of IstanbulUpon first observations, I can confidently say Istanbul is quite the multicultural milkshake. That, and I am completely charmed by its cobbled streets leading towards the sea. What a condensed, sprawling, hodge-podge of people and life!
Demographics say its 78 percent Turks, but there are so many other faces. That's 15 million people tightly packed into stackable buildings, some within the confines of a walled city, with dozens of mosque domes predominantly gleaming in the midday sun.
Landfall finds me in the old city European part of Istanbul, with less than a week to explore both sides of the Bosporus. Its not very often I make strategically sound travel decisions at last minute, but my unassuming hotel is lovely and perfectly situated, within walking distance to everything touristy.
Well done you. First line of business, a walkabout to get my bearings. I use Google to zig and zag my way about. I am relieved to see grocers and a few local eateries, trams appear easy, and the streets are teeming with shoppers. I’m beckoned in by a few waiters to peruse their dinner menus. It’s too early I tell them. They agree. Maybe a coffee then? Maybe.
How Bazaar
The trinket salesmen were off their game when I visited early in the morning But in a flash, I’ve moved on and the same convo occurs only a minute later. Then I happen upon the carpet district, the shop owners fall over themselves in a bid to get me to come in and see their rugs. I literally run away.
I find relief in the gigantic Sultanahmet Square, a massive hippodrome once used for chariot racing back in the Roman times. While I wandered around looking at the obelisks and monuments. I realized there was six cruise ship’s worth of tourists queued up for entry into the two big mosques. Damn it! I did not think to prebook anything. It would be hours before I could get in.
As I tried to sneak some free WiFi near a cafe, I became a juicy target.
It was comical actually. These men, in their early thirties with chiseled features, quaffed hair, and leather jackets, wearing way too much cologne, would zero in on me navigating the massive crowds. What they didn’t know was I spotted them first. I would take a deep breath and brace as they sidle up in an attempt for flirty conversation. I was Canadian polite at first, but after the
Floating around in the Bosphorus
Checking out the famous waterways in Istanbul third ambush I gave one of them a real dressing down. They must have called each other, because no one bothered me afterwards.
Beautiful Turkey! I’m here in October. Roasted chestnuts and cobs of corn were the popular street treats on this cool weather day.
I sat on a park bench outside the blue mosque and enjoyed the people-watching GOLD unfold before me. The mosques were obviously a no go, so I found the Ephesus experience museum with no lineup, I don’t know why, because it was a fantastic visual interpretation of the 8,000 years of history for this entire region, with a strong emphasis on Islam.
Which was a perfect educational afternoon for me, because I didn’t have a clue. After the tour, I walked along the waterfront and watched the fishermen before I made a quick retreat back to my hotel’s reliable Wi-Fi to buy online tickets for the next few days of sightseeing.
It was also when I learned via WhatsApp that several of the group members I traveled with in Egypt had all come down with Covid.
Great. I didn’t feel ill but purchased a test from a nearby pharmacy. Negative.
Backgammon and Smokes
It was significantly noticeable the young Russian men hanging out in coffee shops in Turkey A day later I lost my sense of taste, a sure sign. Still no Covid.
Maybe I’m one of those pandemic mutations? Forgive me, I’ve been watching The Last of Us.
I braved a late afternoon tour out on the Bosporus. The sea churned and our boat leaned and lurched as we jostled for position to float past all the key sites. A nice English commentary accompanied each tower, palace, fortress, mosque. Plus, the bonus of seeing the two biggest mosques by unobstructed sea view. Our view included thousands of multimillion dollar mansions that lined the skyline.
Is Turkey a tax-free haven or something? There is ALOT of money here. The Indian tourists aboard hugged their freshly made family photo albums and jockeyed for the best seat for which to Instagram. I waited for my turn to snap a few photos. By the time the trip was halfway over, most of them were sitting quietly, chilled by the prevailing winds, with a slight shade of green across their cheeks.
I’m pleased to report that no one spewed chunks. It was highly recommended that I visit the Grand Bazaar while in Istanbul. For the historic significance alone, it
Turkish Delight
Sweet shops in every corner. I couldn’t resist was a big yes. Established over 560 years ago, this flourishing marketplace sits strategically within the walled city, which if you think about it, is a very smart move to concentrate all their trade in one place as to provide security against theft, fire and uprisings.
If you are a shopper, this place is your jam. Trouble is, I’m not a fan of buying things. Sure, I can appreciate a mosaic brass lamp, ceramic tea set, or a dusty carpet. My minimalist-self wants nothing to do with it. Lack of space in my suitcase is my formal, go-to excuse, but honestly, I just don’t need anything.
That wasn’t going to stop the Turkish vendors. They were legendarily aggressive.
Not my first rodeo. I’ve scrummed through the thickest of souks in Morocco, the chaotic markets of Kenya, Mexico, and Thailand, and most recently, Cairo’s dirty bazaar, and came out of all, unscathed. Since it was such a short walk from my lovely hotel, I snuck back into the labyrinth early the next morning hoping that the vendors weren't hopped up on their Turkish coffee yet. I was right. They sleepily opened their shops, allowing me to browse
Roasted chestnuts and corn
Not quite the street snacks I enjoy but the Russians love them almost unmolested.
Almost. I did end up having to buy an evil eye pendulum for the front door of my house in Canada after being warned excessively why it was necessary.
Wasn’t going to tempt fate. As the cruise ship patrons shuffled in and the crowds thickened through the endless maze of corridors, it became a free for all, so I hastily did an exit stage left.
My booking for the Hagia Sofia was midday, so I went for a stroll through the old city while I waited for my time to queue. It feels very eastern European metropolitan. The fortress walls are in a state of crumble throughout with salvaged portions near the tourist zones well maintained and gateways guarded. At the cafes, I observe young Russian men, who I’m going to assume are waiting out their mandatory conscript back home, angrily smoking and playing backgammon in their typically dark clothing.
The Hagia Sofia was chaotic but well worth the wait. Such a spectacular design outside, and the inside seems to glisten in gold. I went in during the call to prayer, so it had that extra feel of enchantment. Serving as a church for 916 years,
Hagia Sofia
No Iphone photo will ever do this beautiful mosque justice. and then a mosque for 500 years, and most recently, a museum for 86 years. The religions all meld together into a fascinating spectacle. Gigantic plaques with verses from the Quran in deep Islamic green try, but can’t, take your attentions away from the jaw dropping Byzantian mosaics and their nod towards Christianity, as golden chandeliers appear to swing, and kids play freely on the lush teal carpeting. The whole experience triggers my overwhelm, so I fight the feeling to glaze-over as the tour guide gives his lengthy explanations. Even though it receives more than 120,000 visitors each day, somehow it retains a little bit of religious solitude within a very hectic atmosphere.
Bonus, I found my shoes without effort. Big mistake. I shouldn’t have gone to the Blue Mosque right after, because now, in my mind’s eye, they are both now permanently blended into one mosque. But it was right next door, so I found myself automatically queuing, and therefore I'll have to live with my subconscious comparisons. The Blue Mosque itself is spectacular and was built in the Ottoman era in the 1600's and has functioned as a mosque since. The name itself relays a lush tranquility.
Stunning Hagia Sofia
Despite the queued crowds it is worth the wait. What I learnt though, not so blue. Nonetheless, I gaze upon the extravagant ceilings of this place of worship, and I can’t help but feel the opulence.
But why the burnt orange carpet? It assaults your eyeballs.
The big Lebowski would be mortified, as it did not tie the room together. Backing up a bit, I should mentioned the start of my six glorious mornings in Istanbul was an epic continental breakfast offered at my hotel that consisted of Turkish fair, stuffed olives and savory salads, meats and cheeses, dried fruits and pastries, with thick yogurts. To add to the basement ambiance, they had actual ancient ruins encased in glass to look at while you sipped your expresso and ate scrambled eggs. I felt like an wannabe archaeologist.
Overall, I have to admit. Plan B is going very well. Although Turkey was not on my original itinerary, I am so glad I decided to come. I see now that I need to return to explore the Asian side of Istanbul before I head off into the Turkish countryside for a tour. Once my friends had discovered I was in Turkey, my phone pinged periodically with suggestions of
Cats of Istanbul
There needs to be a calendar last minute things to do. Funny enough, I was actually standing right next to the Basilica Cistern when it was suggested by Anna that I should try to find it.
I’m like.
Hey, wait a minute. I'm not an underground kinda gal, but will sign up for any fascinating venture into the bowels of a city. A quick descent down some stone stairs and I was inside a underground cathedral, lit up in all carnival bright.
It still gives spooky. But very cool. There are these gigantic upside-down Greek medusa heads (upside down to avoid curses) being used to prop up the columns, along with many other statues and water filled chambers. The guide explained how this subterranean cistern was built back in the 6th century by the byzantine emperor Justinian I, and how it was abandoned then rediscovered by a French tourist in the 1700's. The guide also catered to the younger crowd by talking about how it was used as a backdrop for some video game, and a James Bond movie.
At street level again, I strolled through Gulhane Park, the oldest one in Istanbul, on my way to visit the Topkopi Palace. I
Views from Bospherous
Looking back at Istanbul from a boat is probably one of the best ways to see the city. What a place! mean, as a Hortie it’s almost impossible for me to not. I can report that it is well-maintained but its also late in the year, so it’s packed it in a bit. I enjoyed the crisp autumn air with that faint hint of decaying leaves, although there were none on the ground.
The lavish Sultan's palace was just that, lavish, on steroids. All the Turkish royals have been at residence here for almost 400 years. I wandered through its courtyards and pavilions, the views of seaside Istanbul from its grand terraces, something to behold. Inside, the rooms all display artefacts and Ottoman treasures. There was even a harem residence where concubines and their subsequent children were kept.
If I had more time in Istanbul, I would have a taken a food tour, but instead I took the advice of friends and enjoyed a couple of local eateries near the Sultanahmet Square, Turkish food is really, really, amazing and way too much for just one person to endure. I was served heaping plates of grilled meats on rice with veggie salads, and all the condiments.
This is my only pet peeve about traveling solo, eating in restaurants alone
Middle Eastern feels
Keeping your eyes averted while trying to see the endless wares and food, impossible. Those shop keepers are on to you if they spot you looking! and requesting a doggie bag just out of politeness. In most cases, I find someone sleeping on the streets to hand over my gently used leftovers, but oddly there wasn't anybody sleeping rough in this part of the city, so I left them with the bellboy.
My last evening in Istanbul, I attempted to book an authentic Whirling Dervishes show at one of the cultural centers, but alas it too was sold out. So, I went to a hammam instead. It was a well known establishment just down the street from my hotel.
Ah. A Turkish bath in Turkey! Finally. I’ve never felt so rubbed down and relaxed and ready to move on to my next country.
Tomorrow, I head for Rome. Gelato here I come!
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Dancing Dave
David Hooper
Turkish Delights
We have had Turkey at the top of our list for years but others have distracted us which we did not regret. Your blog excites as you obviously are. Love this pic but the crowds!!!