Into the axis of evil

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Leave your preconceptions at the border Syria, chances are Syria is not what you expected. The only immediate difference you notice when you cross over from Jordan is that the terrain switches from desert to farmland. I wouldn’t quite say it’s westernised but the people are very friendly towards outsiders and much more liberally dressed than other parts of the Middle East. At the same time there’s a definite sense the country is cut off from the rest of the world. Everyone’s a bit out of touch and dressed not quite right. There aren’t really any western chain stores and the internet is pretty restricted. It’s a bit like a “modern” version of a Soviet country I guess!

I’d already organised a multiple entry visa in advance because I’m planning on going to Lebanon. Back in Amman, I’d heard a ridiculous amount of horror stories about the border. In the end though there was absolutely no problem getting a visa at the border, it’s just slightly more expensive. I was even travelling with a guy who’d been to Israel and he got in!

Damascus is said to be the oldest continually inhabited city in the world and the old town is a perfect place to just wander around. There’s a long covered market, selling literally everything that leads to the heart of the old town. The nearby Umayyad Mosque is one of the most important buildings in Islam. The architecture is stunning but you obviously have to be dressed properly. Apparently my shorts weren’t acceptable so I was given a skirt to wear. For the ladies it’s a full length hooded cloak.
Azem palace is also really impressive but my definite favourite was Khan As’ad Basha. I only stumbled across the place by accident but the courtyard and fountain is one of the nicest pieces of architecture in the city.

If Damascus was located almost anywhere else in the world, the place would be overrun with tourists! I cannot recommend it anymore highly.

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