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Published: April 28th 2010
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There is nothing to see in Al Hasake, which is why I went there. There should be a castle around somewhere, but I couldn't even find that (more my fault than the castle's, I'm hopellesly lost if it's not on my GPS). I spent about two days in Hasake, I think I spotted another tourist, but I'm not sure.
On the full day I had I just wanderred around, mostly in the souk. It's a typically Arab town, around lunch most shops close till the heat dies down. Then they open up again untill late at night. It's much mure rural that Aleppo, with a different ethnic blend. Quite a lot of Kurdish. I met a man in the market who told me he studied as an argricultural engineer, but he sold vegetables in the market because he could not get a wrok permit as he did not have Syrian (or any other for that matter) citizenship. The plight of the Kurdsih is nasty one...
Everyone in the souk was incredibly hospitable, and as I have a problem saying No I counted that I had 3 cups of coffe and 7 teas before I went back to the hotel.
Everyone wanted their picture taken, and at some point I was dragged from stall to stall to take their pictures.
In the evening I wenty for dinner and afterwards was pulled into a house again for coffee, and ended up armwrestling with one of the guys who turned out to be the servant (I won...). They all we're very friendly towards me and each other but the pecking order was clear: everyone gave up their seat for anyone who came by who was older, but when we ran out of seats the servant sat on the floor...
The next morning just before I left town I stopped to check my map, and was invited in for tea again. I actaully wanted to leave, but when the police invites me in for tea, I just say yes. Nice tea, everyone was smoking and I was assured that the new no-smoking-in-public buildings law that had gone into effect a few days earlier would take a bit longer to reach Hasake as they all sat around with their Alhambras :-) And did I want to take a nap before I left? Or have some breakfast?
By the way, something I
The Hyena of Justice
If there's enough evidence in the scale to make the hyena fall over, you're guilty forgot to mention from drive to Hasake. Around here you wave your hand to slow down as a sign that you're hitchhiking and want a ride. When you see just another guy doing that, make sure he does not turn out to be police and actaully wants to see your papers. He was not wearing any kind of uniform and I just drove past him as I don't take passengers. He was waving a bit fanaticly though and a glance in my rear view mirror revealed the submachinegun I hadn't spotted so I decided that stopping might be a good plan. Again, very nice guy, 'Welcome to Syria' etc. They write down your passport details and your on your way with a smile.
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