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Published: April 18th 2011
Dear All
Greetings from the Syrian Desert! Currently in the town of Palmyra, Syria’s star tourist attraction, and a rather touristy little town it is – more reminiscent of Thailand’s backpacker hotspots, with pancake houses and touts by the bucketload – seems a bit strange for Syria, but actually rather welcome to be back on the tourist track again particularly at this time.
Last I wrote, I was just about to leave beautiful Aleppo, and a not-so-beautiful hotel room, taking a 4 hour bus trip eastwards towards the capital of the Syrian desert, Deir es-Zur. A journey of stark contrasts – starting off leaving civilization and verdant hills, and travelling through such a barren and inhospitable-looking landscape which is the Syrian desert. I felt thirsty just looking out of the bus window, from the comfort of air-conditioning and a large bottle of water in my bag, to the bleak Bedouin-inhabited landscape that is the Arabian desert. It was a great trip, though I have rather mixed feelings about the town of Deir es-Zur.
Upon arrival, we passed through a police checkpoint, and to my utter shock I looked out of the window and saw a casually dressed guy
in jeans, trainers and t-shirt, carrying a huge kaleshnikov rifle. Now I don’t mind military or policemen sporting such weaponry, but to see such a casual everyday kind of guy carrying one made me wonder how many of the people I encountered on my trip were actually part of this large cohort of secret police which Syria is notorious for. It was the start of my feeling a bit paranoid about travelling in this country during this sensitive time, for the first time on my trip. Just before arriving at the bus station, I was asked to get off with all my bags and head to the police station, where they took down my details, passport and visa information, name of my mother and father, and the like – an incident which was repeated numerous times in Deir es-Zur, though with my Mum’s name being Diana and being from England, this always brought a smile to the officer’s face which brought some form of relief.
The Lonely Planet states that this town on the banks of the mighty Euphrates River sees few foreigners, so expect a few interested looks. This was a bit of an understatement, as everyone I
passed stared at me. It took me a few hours to realize that this was not hostile, but out of interest, and often the situation relaxed when I smiled, or said “hello” or something. And then I started striking up conversations with people, or rather they with me, including a group of Syrian students taking a French degree, who wanted to practice their French so much with me, despite my telling them that their French was probably better than mine – they were having none of it! And then another student of English, called Mohammed but whose friends call him “Shakespeare” for his love of English and England! After my first evening there, I did get used to it, and then it started feeling like for the first time I was properly travelling in the Middle East, and not just sticking to the straight and narrow tourist trail, which felt great!
I did check in at the most expensive hotel in town, which at $45 per night did send a shockwave to my money belt, but very well worth it considering the dusty state of the town and my feelings of what a local hotel would have been like.
This was luxury – huge beds, big fluffy pillows, crisp white sheets and all, though it took me a while to convince myself that the splurge was worthwhile – upon reflection I think it was.
My second day in Deir I decided to visit the “nearby” site of Dura Europos, one of the great cities of the Seleucid Empire following the division of Alexander the Great’s empire upon his passing, and then becoming Romanised. An amazing place, stuck right in the middle of a desert plateau, stark and barren for miles around, before plunging 90 metres suddenly into the mighty Euphrates, one of the Middle East’s greatest along with the Nile and the Tigris, and its fertile valley and verdant farmland – what a contrast! At 1.5 hours towards the south-east of Deir by local transport, Dura Europos was only 25km from the Iraqi border! Wow! And lo and behold, I met the Russians again there – which was amazing, as there was not a traveler for literally hundreds of miles around – I think we are destined to meet many times on this journey, and this was as good a time as any, as we joined forces in
Desert Road
Aleppo to Deir es-Zurhitching a ride back to Deir, which was not an easy task.
As we approached the main road following our visit to the site, a jeep pulled up with two men inside who stayed there just watching us – we asked if they’d give us a lift, but they didn’t speak English. Almost every car which passed would stop as if making to give us a lift, but then upon seeing these two guys, would wave and just drive on again. Twice a car pulled up and we were just about to get in, when the two guys said something to them, and they pulled off again. Eventually we decided to walk away from these dodgies, and a car pulled up with us getting inside quickly, driving off only to be chased down by these two in their jeep. It was most unnerving, but the latest car driver was able to explain to us that these were secret police men, and were there to ensure we arrived back in Deir safely with a safe driver. They took down this driver’s name and details, and we were finally able to head back. I guess upon reflection these two guys were
really looking out for us, and I think I should be grateful to them, but at the time it was very frustrating and a bit scary – I’m glad I was with the Russians.
My last evening in Deir I spent in a restaurant along with other Syrians, watching President Bashar al-Assad appoint a whole new cabinet and pledging reforms, an end to the country’s state of emergency rule and moves towards more democratic freedom – a significant moment I feel. This following another TV broadcast I saw on Wednesday in Aleppo, with two Syrians “confessing” to foreign involvement in the recent anti-government protests which have flickered briefly across the country. I really don’t know the ins and outs of the whole situation, and it may be better to reflect further on this once out of the country, but this really is a hotbed of politics with not just the many Syrian interests involved, but relating much more widely to the rest of the Arab world, including especially Lebanon, as well as Israel and Iran – so many players, so many political interests represented, it all seems a bit too complicated to make head nor tail of, and I
Deir es-Zur
Street scene guess this is what makes this region such a volatile and unstable part of the world. I think it is far more than what a mere independent traveler like me can understand, so maybe I’ll just get back to the travelling!
Anyway, apologies for the ramble. Here I am today in Palmyra, after having taken a bus from Deir yesterday through gales of winds and sandstorms, which actually caused the front windscreen of the bus to completely shatter – as if two big rocks had hit it, but this was merely the force of the wind! Unbelievable. After the driver sellotaped the window back together and drove very slowly for a few minutes, another bus passed by, and we all filled up the aisle of this new one with luggage and babies in tow, with numerous factions breaking off into displays of proper Arabic anger – a rather uncomfortable hour later, we thankfully arrived in Palmyra - where again I bumped into the Russians!
A beautiful place, stunning Roman remains in the desert, surrounded by tombs, monuments and a hilltop Arab castle overlooking all. The sandstorm continued yesterday while I was taking a peek at the ruins –
check the photos! This was a mean one, which coloured everything red and got into everything, especially the eyes... Fortunately the hotel I’m staying in has a bath tub, so was able to wash it all out. Speaking of which, a fantastic hotel, whose price of $38 I managed to whittle down to just $25, since there are practically no tourists here currently in Syria! It really works out well in fact, and I may continue to travel in countries with political issues for just this reason (only joking, but it is a point!).
This morning went back to the ruins before the heat of the day kicked off – it must be about 35 degrees out there right now, and this is only April, and spent a happy three hours wandering around! I have employed a new tactic to deal with the many touts and kids who just spoil visits to places like this in wanting to sell you tea-towels and trinkets, by wearing shades and listening to my MP3 player – it works a treat, and I thoroughly recommend it to anyone suffering the same onslaught of informal employment. I have now seen just about everything there
is to see in this town, so am just going to spend the rest of today and this evening chilling before heading back to Damascus tomorrow, and then London and home again on Thursday.
Thanks y’all for reading, and hope you like the photos!
Speak soon
Alex
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Helen
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pics
Hey Alex!! as usual, a compelling read! What amazing photo's!!! Have you started a book about your travels yet??? get copies of all your blogs and pics and voila! One book!! I would buy it.. Take care out there and keep 'em coming..!!