The Dead Sea

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Sunday, August 6, 2006 - Today was a classic. I got up early in order to be at the Chinese embassy when they opened at 9am. I took a relatively expensive cab ride there and then couldn't figure out how to get in. The police man on duty led me around to the back entrance with his big gun and then I spoke to the woman about getting a visa. Turns out I need a letter from my embassy and about $75. So I walked out and will hope for better luck in Turkey. I went next to Turkish Airlines to buy my ticket to Turkey next week. The cab driver got lost and had to ask for directions a few times, and this got on my nerves because we were using the meter and this meant I had to pay for his confusion. But once I got there I bought the ticket and all was well. I then tried to get another taxi to the bus station where I could catch a bus to the Dead Sea. But the cab driver told me to cross the busy highway and flag down a service/shared taxi, as this would be cheaper. I eventually found a circle and was able to cross there. I waited for a long time for this taxi and eventually got in one. The ride was shorter than I expected, and then I was getting in the bus to the Dead Sea. Except this bus didn't take me to the Dead Sea, it took me to another bus that would take me there, or so I thought.

At the end of the second bus ride, the driver said I was there. We were actually at a military check point and this is where he turned me out. So now I was standing around with about 15 military guys checking IDs. They were wondering why I was there and so was I. I had no idea how to get where I was going from there. Eventually they asked some guy if he could drive me there. He said he would and told me he was going to the Marriott and would drive me there. I agreed, if only to get out of the heat. But I knew the Marriott would charge me big $$$ for use of their anything, so I was a bit dubious about the whole thing. We got to the hotel (excuse me, resort and spa) and he let me out while he parked. I went in, looked around, and headed to a bathroom where I put on my bathing suit and headed out into the sun. I walked past about 6 pools, heading to the Dead Sea water itself. Just as I thought I was home free, a guy asked me if I wanted a towel. I said yes and he asked me which room I was staying in. What to do? Do I make up a number? Explain my sad sad story and hope not to get thrown out? I told him I wasn't staying there and he asked me if I had my day pass voucher. A couple of Arab guys explained that I had paid but left my voucher elsewhere, so that I could go swimming. The hotel guy gave me the towel but came back about one minute later to clarify. I explained the whole thing, about my bus rides and what a trial it was to get to the Marriott accidentally. He said people pay 20JD to come here for the day - about $30 - but said I could pay 10JD to swim. I said I would have to leave then. He ended up letting me stay anyway.

So I got my stuff situated on a beautiful lounge chair and headed into the sea. It is really a very salty lake, about 33% solids or so, so that there is no life in it, hence the name, and you float remarkably well. I walked in and after a bit I could no longer keep my feet on the ground - I just floated upwards. Insane. I floated on my back, on my front, on my side. I sat up in the water and stayed that way. It was a lot of fun, but it was actually really lonely, as all bathing suit places tend to be when you're alone. Everyone else was a couple or a family and there I was, just floating nearby. I got out and slathered myself with mud that is supposed to benefit my skin in some way or another. I looked like everyone else at least. The I washed it all off in the sea and floated some more. You have to be really careful not to get the water in your eyes, as it burns terribly. Same with your mouth.

Eventually I got out and hosed myself off with some fresh water - really needed to get the salty crust off. Sat in my lounge chair, eating some cookies from my bag in secret, as you are not allowed to bring in foods from outside the hotel. Read a book and relaxed until about 3pm, when I thought I should get ready to go and try to find my ride home. The guy saw me leaving and asked if I wanted to swim in the pools. I said yes and he said it would be 10JD and so I passed. Was it really worth $15? No way.

Made my way to the bathroom and changed and then sat in the air-con lobby for a few minutes. Asked at reception about a way to get back to Amman and he said they had a shuttle bus. The shuttle costs - you guessed it - 10JD, so I said I couldn't do that. They told me if I could wait until 4pm I could see if the bus had an extra place. If so, I could go cheaper. So I waited and left with them at 4pm, for the bargain price of 2JD. The shuttle didn't go downtown, but one of the guys from another resort, the Movenpick, said he would help me get there. So we walked to a bus station and took that bus, which he paid for. Then we walked for 20 minutes or so until I knew where I was. He said I could come back with my hostel roommate to the Movenpick resort for free in the next day or so, and I think I will take him up on it. May as well get some luxury for free. I deserve it.

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