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Published: September 24th 2009
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Okay, so admittedly I promised not to get arrested illegally crossing the border into Iran. However, I didn't make any promise, pledge, or pact, regarding illegally crossing the border into Saudi Arabia, or at least getting close enough that wearing trousers and driving a car (for me) would be considered felony offences. And, since the peak of the highest mountain in Jordan happens to be within spitting distance of the Saudi kingdom, how could I resist a peek at the forbidden land of Mecca and money? (even if they have considerably less of the latter now, as I have it from a reliable source that the Saudi princes invested heavily with Citibank)
But, the climb to Jebel Umm Adaami (said highest mountain) was on my second day with the Bedouin of Wadi Rum (the desert known as Rum Valley, for anyone who has not seen ‘Lawrence of Arabia’). The first day involved a camel trek across the desert from Rum Village to Saleh’s mother’s tent, where we spent the night (and where the video was taken). In addition, on Day One we played on the sand dunes (beautiful), took a wild ride in a 4WD to see the rock bridges (I
almost bounced out the back of the Jeep), and watched the sunset set over Umm Sabatah.
Our time with the Bedouin was interesting and informative. We hooked up with a French couple, Didier and Sophie, who joined us for the sand dunes, rock bridges, and then overnighted at the camp. Our Bedouin host, Saleh, has only one wife and three children (fewer of each than most Bedouin). One of the children, a boy of five, spent most of the afternoon playing with my camera, including by shooting photos of himself and of his mother, which is taboo (Bedouin women do not allow themselves to be photographed). His mother, Saleh’s wife, spoke a little English, and, when she wasn’t yelling at her son, was able to tell us about her recent trip to Amman, which was her first visit and, according to her, will be her last. She was apparently terrified by the escalators at one of the shopping malls.
Staying in the camp overnight was an experience not to be forgotten, nor repeated. Bedouin tents have an outer building of stone for some cooking and storage, and then the tents themselves are covered on two sides and open on the
other two. There is no furniture, per se, merely pillows and foam mattresses placed on the woven rugs that cover the dirt floor. The less said about the sanitary facilities the better. The idea of sleeping under the stars was quite romantic when I was still in Saint Paul, and some of the quaintness remained while the Bedouin were singing and the campfire burning. However, it got awfully cold awfully fast after 10pm. Around 4am a wind storm came up which lasted until 6am, by which time the rising sun had made sleep an impossibility. Crawling out of our sleeping bags we found everything- including us- was covered in a layer of dust. So, it was with very little sleep that after breakfast (traditional bread and tea cooked on the campfire), we began our journey to the Saudi border.
After our climb, we lunched with the Bedouin and then began our nearly four hour journey back to civilization (still covered with a layer of dirt and dust and badly needing showers). Interesting, although we drove more than 200 kilometers, we passed only two petrol stations, but at least eleven military checkpoints.
Fortunately, Amil had the foresight to book us into
Wadi Rum Conservation Area
...the idea isn't really catching on. I found this abandoned in a sand dune. the Marriot Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the night, so a mani/pedi is in sight!
Regarding the video, yes, I realize that it is dark and looks suspiciously like a terrorist cave video. However, it is Bedouin singing (from our night in the desert) and, if you listen carefully at the end, you will get a 'traditional' surprise!
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Fr. Joseph Gallatin
Now that's going native!
Jennifer, you don't mess around, do you? I am truly impressed and appalled at the same time about your idea of a vacation. I've been to Jordan, but not out there! The panorama looking into Saudi Arabia looks like several other rocky wastelands I've seen in what more enlightened people call "Southwest Asia." Wouldn't it look great under a carpet of lush green grass? And finally, don't cell phones ring at the darndest times? Keep safe, and may God bless you as you relax at the resort.