Middle East and Mediterranean Marvels - Spring, 2017

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Middle East and Mediterranean Marvels - Spring 2017



Time to head back to my favorite region of the world - to cavort in the sands of the Persian Gulf before beginning my next adventure – this time on the high Seas of the Arabian, the Red and the Mediterranean for the next few weeks.



Today I leave for the airport at 8am, definitely a pleasant change from my usual zero-dark-thirty departure time; I even get to sleep in until daylight. The big blue chariot awaits outside and with my bag in the back, we are off to McCarran. Fast and efficient as always with the priority lane and I speed thru TSA security like a whirlwind – Delta sure pampers their elite flyers.



First leg halfway around the globe is cross country to New York, and as I fit my butt into a first-class seat, my coffee w/Bailey’s is already being prepared. A delicious chicken salad lunch and watching two of the latest movie releases, has me at JFK in 5 hours for a quick layover before boarding my transatlantic flight to Amsterdam. Considering the double-digit-hour flights I’ve taken recently, 7 hours to Europe seems like a walk in the park, and I even got to doze a little before landing at Schipol early the next morning.



By the time I boarded my third and final flight to the Emirates, I was feeling the strain of long air travel…just another 6.5 hours before touching down in the Persian Gulf. The plane was relatively empty and no crying kids, always a blessing in disguise! I fell asleep as the plane flew high above Turkey and came around as we began the low descent across the Gulf, over Bahrain and Qatar, before landing 10 minutes early in Abu Dhabi. It was already dark but still warm as I made my way to Immigration and using the Fast Track lane, I collected yet ANOTHER visa stamp in my travel-worn passport and headed to baggage claim. This international airport is up there with Bangkok – fast, efficient and no boring/useless questions from customs….just scanned my passport, stamped it and I was on my way out of the building in less than 30 minutes from touch down.



My Hilton Hotel limo driver was waiting outside the Arrivals Hall, resplendent in formal uniform, who quickly assembled my luggage and whisked me out to the parking garage and into a wonderfully air-conditioned Mercedes for the 30-minute drive to the hotel. In spite of previous visits, seeing the Grand Mosque lit up at night still takes my breath away – it is one incredible structure for sure.



The Hilton Grand Capital is an imposing structure, directly across from Al Bateen Executive Airport and a few blocks from the beach. Check in was speedy as always and I found myself in an upgraded suite on the 10^th floor, directly across the hall from the Executive Lounge – that will come in handy over the coming days.



I have a routine when first arriving at a hotel: crank up the a/c as cold as possible and dive into a hot shower to wash away all travel stains – everything else comes later. This is exactly what I did and by 10:30pm, I was showered, cool and enjoying a platter of fresh fruit, while catching up on world news via the BBC English language channel. All’s well that end wells in my book.



Not a great night’s sleep (that rarely happens when I first arrive in a foreign location), but I managed to stumble to the lounge at 9am for as much coffee as possible to force the old eyelids open. Being a lounge means a very limited menu when it comes to food, but the price is always right (aka free). For the remainder of my stay, I will probably head downstairs to the Oceana Restaurant where I understand they have a fantastic buffet spread….I like variety especially first thing in the morning.



That evening as it was getting dark, I decided to check out the dinner menu in the lounge, not really expecting much but ended up pleasantly surprised. Compared to breakfast, they make an effort for the evenings – I dined on delicious chicken curry with jasmine rice, and Swedish meatballs in a rich tomato sauce – who knew it would be this good in the Gulf? Henry the head waiter, kept my glass topped off with a superb Czech white wine – I know where I will be spending my evenings in the immediate future. The lounge was packed with guests, mostly westerners with kids attached (ugh), and a few oil wildcatters thrown in for good measure. I had a great time observing this happy bunch moaning about the heat, Arabs, way of life in general in this region of the world – god, these people are a trip. Talk about free entertainment – they have no concept of how lucky they are to be enjoying such a wonderful locale, but as the saying goes, “pearls cast before swine” – ain’t that the truth? But I digress….I had grabbed a seat next to the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the swimming pool and the Arabian Sea on the horizon. Lights twinkling from tall buildings, the majestic Grand Mosque in full splendor just a short walk away, and palm trees swaying in the evening breeze – I’m in hog heaven. I’ve been away from the Emirates for far too long.



Went downstairs the following morning to check out the Oceana Restaurant’s much-touted breakfast buffet. Yes, the selections were far more than the executive lounge and even had a fresh orange juice squeezing machine available but overall, not that special really. A mass of humanity flooded the glass-walled room like a swarm of hungry locusts, wolfing down food like it was their last feeding day on earth – not a pretty sight. The Turkish coffee was delicious – boiled down to a thick viscous brew – strong enough to make my hair stand on end. Semi sweet and served in a demitasse, I had died and gone to heaven and so early in the morning too. I decided on some scrambled eggs and fresh fruit and lots and lots of the coffee…breakfast was done and done.



For most people, the United Arab Emirates means just one place: Dubai, the city of iconic skyscrapers, palm-shaped islands, city-sized malls, indoor ski slopes and palatial beach resorts. But beyond the glitter awaits a diverse mosaic of six more emirates, each with its own character and allure. But I’m spending a few days in the one considered the business capital: an hour's drive south, oil-rich Abu Dhabi is positioning itself as a hub of culture, sport and leisure – I’ve “done” Dubai a number of times and I need a change of scenery. Abu Dhabi is all about the largest, biggest, highest and so on. It claims the world's largest hand-loomed carpet, the fastest roller coaster, the highest high tea, the tower with the greatest lean, the largest cluster of cultural buildings of the 21st century – for sure, this emirate isn't afraid to challenge world records. Welcome to an exciting city where nothing ever seems to stand still…except perhaps the herons in its mangroves.



If you’re looking to engage with Gulf culture, here are opportunities to understand the UAE's history through museums, exhibitions and tours. But thankfully Emirati heritage isn't boxed and mothballed; it's also experienced through strolls around the dhow harbor, haggling in markets and absorbing the atmosphere at sheesha (aka water pipe) cafes. With a population of just under 1.5 million, it’s the headquarters of numerous oil companies and embassies. With only 420,000 native-born citizens in the entire emirate, each has an average net worth of $17 million! The city features large gardens and parks, green boulevards lining all the streets and roads, sophisticated high-rise buildings, international luxury hotel chains and opulent shopping malls.







A little bit of history:



Long viewed as a staid bureaucratic outpost entirely lacking in neighboring Dubai's pizazz, things started to change radically in 2004 after Sheikh Zayed passed away and his son Sheikh Khalifa took over. Sheikh Zayed had ruled so long (1944 to 2004), no doubt locals thought he was immortal. In a bid to attract tourism and investment, land sales to foreigners were allowed and restrictions on alcohol were loosened. Homosexuality is currently illegal throughout the United Arab Emirates with possible resulting penalties of deportation, fines, prison time, or the death sentence. Several massive projects are also under way. Yas Island hosts Abu Dhabi's Formula 1 track and the new Ferrari theme park, while the upcoming centerpiece, the Guggenheim (scheduled to open this year) has been repeatedly plagued by delays. It remains to be seen how well the strategy will work, but the city is certainly experiencing a construction boom.



Its Easter weekend and while this part of the world isn’t exactly celebrating (gee, I wonder why?) most of the kids in the hotel are carrying chocolate bunnies and eggs in Easter baskets, including the Emirati children. I guess celebrations can span all religions when it suits a purpose. Still hot and somewhat humid but basically a lazy day. My time at the Hilton is slowly coming to a close and as much as I enjoy being in the Emirates, I’m really looking forward to the next phase of my current adventure…..stay tuned!



A new day has dawned and I wanted to get to the port early, as I expect crowds to be present at the arrivals hall, waiting to get checked in for the cruise. Climbing into the Hilton limo, I was off and running by 11am for the short drive to the cruise ship terminal. The boat doesn’t sail until 6pm today, but as it can take a couple of hours sometimes to complete all the boarding formalities, the sooner I get started, the sooner I’ll be unpacking in my cabin.



And talking of cabins….as per my advice to many on booking “guaranteed category status” instead of selecting a specific cabin on cruises – I followed my own advice again this time. From making an inside cabin reservation, to getting upgraded to a Veranda stateroom with private balcony, this sure paid off like the proverbial Las Vegas slot machine! Haven’t sailed with Celebrity before, so looking forward to a new experience.



After a lazy sleep-in and breakfast in the lounge the next morning, I headed to the lobby to check out of the Hilton. The same uniformed driver from a week ago arrived a few minutes later, and we were off to the Al Minya Zayed Port of Abu Dhabi where the cruise ship Constellation awaited. It had arrived very early this morning from its last port of call (Dubai), and the staff/crew are in a mad frenzy dockside getting everything prepped. It was just 11:30am but the arrivals hall was virtually empty of passengers – uniformed staff were every 6’ or so lined up to assist – they outnumbered the passengers at least 8 to 1. I was checked in, issued my boarding card and had all paperwork finalized in less than 4 minutes. That must be a shipboard record for yours truly. Then to my amazement, I was invited to board immediately even though it was hours away from actual sailing time. What the hell, I was ready to explore this new temporary home of mine, check out the cabin and relax. Soon as I cleared security, a waiter approached with a tray of champagne flutes, orange juice and chilled water. I grabbed the champers and a juice which, mixed together, gave me a delicious Mimosa….now this is the way to start a cruise, drinking at noon! I just might hang around here for a while. A PA announcement dashed my hopes of immediately seeing my cabin – that wouldn’t happen for about another hour as they were still being cleaned – so I headed off to the nearest harbor-view lounge. Here I ran into two more couples from the Hilton hotel who I hadn’t had the opportunity to meet earlier, had just seen them at breakfast on a couple of mornings.



The hour flew by and the next PA announcement had me off to the Penthouse Deck to find cabin 6060. What a pleasant surprise. Small yes, but extremely compact with boatloads of storage space, more hangers than I had pieces of clothing, room under the king size bed for my empty luggage and a large shower (thankfully no tub to climb in and out of – gets my vote). The balcony sported two very comfy adjustable deck chairs and a cocktail table – this is going to be my ideal spot for photographs on this voyage. Had my bag unpacked and clothes hung in the closet just before the ship’s alarm sounded, and we all know what that means on the first cruise day, don’t we? Yes indeed, my all-time personal favorite (NOT) - lifeboat drill. God help me, these neon orange monstrosities do nothing for my skin tone, and don’t get me started on how they clash with my red hair! But I gritted my teeth, suffered thru 20 minutes of this mandatory torture and then scooted back to the cabin to prepare for my first evening onboard…..here we go folks, I’m headed for the open sea.



I selected the late dinner sitting (8:30pm), which means I get to see the live stage shows in the Celebrity Theater first, and then have late evening hours for either the bars or entertainment lounges thru-out the ship. I attended the live stage show at 7pm….Gold Duo, an acrobatic man and wife team from the Ukraine, who’s current claim to fame is that they won the latest Ukraine’s Got Talent television show, and will be on the American version this coming September. Parts of the 50-minute caught my attention but overall, I could easily have missed it and not missed much. I don’t see them winning the American show at all….time will tell.



Dinner was delicious but then, when isn’t food on a cruise ship excellent? I had a slab of prime rib rare which took up at least 50% of the dinner platter, served with garlic mashed potatoes and an assortment of fresh veggies. Dessert was crème brulee, always a favorite. I was seated at a table for 8 and had 7 empty chairs as company. The room’s multiple tables were probably a third empty and many did not have a butt in every chair. I can only attribute this to being the first night and people went to bed early to recuperate from the long flights to the UAE. But if this isn’t the case, I certainly don’t relish the thought of dining alone for a couple of weeks. So, going forward, I’m taking advantage of Celebrity’s Select Dining option, where I will be seated at a different table each night. That way, I’m assured of a variety of company, fingers crossed. Its other positive aspect is that I can dine at any time between 5:45 – 9:30pm which is really appealing.



We are 395 nautical miles from the first port of call, Muscat in Oman, but today is a sea day and I plan to explore the ship to “get my bearings”. After breakfast, I made my way to the 8^th deck to see what the library had to offer. What a disappointment. A very small room with only 5 tiny walls for books, most of which were bare. Can’t use the “first day” excuse for this lack of material, and certainly not up to the standards I expected. During the next few hours, I overheard at least 7 other passengers discussing this, and none were happy about it. Strike One for Celebrity here. Grabbing my Kindle, I spent a pleasant afternoon in one of the quiet lounges on deck 11, as we cruised thru the Straits of Hormuz and entered the Arabian Sea.



My smartphone had me out of a deep sleep at 6am the following morning, and I stepped out onto the balcony to watch as we docked in the port of Muscat. Even this early, the warm humid air surrounded me but thankfully, it was a beautiful clear day with the sun slowly creeping over the horizon, to bathe the city in a golden shimmer. Outlook watch towers top the surrounding peaks, and the white city buildings gleam in the sunlight.



A little bit of history:



Oman (officially the Sultanate of Oman), is an Arab country on the southwestern coast of the Arabian Peninsula, with a population of less than 5 million. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the UAE, Saudi Arabia and Yemen. The warm, peaceful culture here has created a society that consistently ranks highly on the annual Global Peace Index, as well as being named the world’s 9^th safest tourist destination by the World Economic Forum in 2015 – quite an accolade, considering its geographical location! Oman is often referred to as the “true Arabia”, because its ancient culture has been so beautifully preserved. Here the souks (markets) are selling silver and frankincense, cattle and pottery, in the same way as has been customary for thousands of years. Recent archaeological discoveries suggest that humans settled in Oman during the Stone Age, more than 10,000 years ago. The Omani people also have a well-deserved reputation for being among the world’s most hospitable. Smiling faces testify to their eagerness to share their culture with visitors, and many travelers will have at least one story of remarkable local hospitality.



As the great Arab navigator, Ahmed bin Majid al Najdi recognized in 1490, the port city of Muscat even to this day, has a character quite different from neighboring Arab capitals. There are few high-rise blocks, and even the most functional building is required to reflect tradition with a dome or an arabesque window. The result of these strict building policies is an attractive, spotlessly clean (voted the world’s cleanest city in 2005),and whimsically uniform city – not much different in essence from the ‘very elegant town with very fine houses’ that the Portuguese admiral Afonso de Albuquerque observed as he sailed towards Muscat in the 16th century.



Muscat means ‘safe anchorage’, and the sea continues to constitute a major part of the city: it brings people on cruise ships (like me for example) and goods in containers to the historic ports of Old Muscat and Muttrah. It contributes to the city’s economy through the onshore refinery near Qurm, and provides a livelihood for fishermen along the beaches of Shatti al Qurm and Athaiba. More recently, it has also become a source of recreation, taking advantage of the sandy beaches that stretch almost without interruption from Muscat to the border with the UAE.



The opening of the Royal Opera House in 2011, with performances of acclaim from around the world (one of which was a recent appearance by Rihanna), has helped place Muscat on an international stage and highlighted it as a forward-thinking, progressive city. With the imminent opening of a fine new national museum in Muttrah and the promise of new luxury hotels in the award-winning Al Mouj development near the airport, Muscat continues to be a beacon for those who live in the interior and a model of understated calm in a region of hyperbole.



I had selected a full-day tour entitled “Fascinating Forts” but to my disappointment, it only included one major fort and a lesser castle along with four endless hours of driving out and back into the mountainous interior. Definitely not worth the ticket price. Once outside the city on a well-maintained highway, the landscape immediately resembled the Mojave desert of the southwestern US states – I could have been driving from Los Angeles to Las Vegas and seen the exact same arid and barren views. It is an extremely mountainous region with almost no vegetation to be seen anywhere, just the occasional cluster of white buildings in the villages. Arriving in Nizwa, the country’s previous historical capital and longtime religious center, we began the tour strolling the new souk complex, starting with the dates and honey vendor, as the sun climbed higher and the mercury soared. Having visited souks around the globe on numerous occasions, I would have preferred to skip this portion and just get to the main event, but that was not to be. It was over an hour before we finally entered Nizwa Fort built in the 17^th century by the ruling Sheikh. Very plain and a mono color of sandstone throughout – maybe I’ve become jaded with historical buildings over the years, but I left the structure unimpressed and with few photographs – such is life.



Lunch was at a local 3-star hotel (no doubt the best to be found in the area) for a lackluster buffet meal. The beef was cooked almost out of existence – would have made great blacktop road material – the vegetables were without seasoning and don’t get me started on the fish and chicken. For a moment, I thought salvation was in the offering when I espied the famous Arabic dessert – my favorite Um Ali - but alas that was also not to be. It was closer to a bread pudding and pretty much tasteless, yet another disappointment…..I’m batting zero on this tour! But I must admit, there was a strong positive. The hotel offered a great internet connection and I could download all my emails since I left Abu Dhabi 3 days ago – see, there is always a silver lining somewhere if you look hard enough. Back on the bus, we headed for the final stop before returning to Muscat. The Omani fort of Jabrin Castle is another 17^th century structure with a medieval atmosphere. Again, a mono sandstone color with little in the way of artifacts to pique my interest, and once more, not much in the way of interesting fodder for my camera. I was happy to return to the tour bus and make the drive back to our ship, arriving there around 4pm. An icy face towel from a crew member at the gangplank, was welcome after a day in the burning sun, and I immediately made my way up to the buffet restaurant to drink a couple of gallons of ice water. I had just gotten back to my cabin when the whistle sounded and we slowly began to push away from the dockside. I went out onto the balcony with my camera and got some lovely pictures of the city, the mountaintop forts and even a dhow sailing into the harbor, then we were full steam towards the harbor entrance and out into the open ocean. It is 2,486 nautical miles to Aqaba, Jordan in the Red Sea, which means 5 full days at sea, surrounded by water, no land in sight…thank god for my Kindle.



These sea days are settling into a routine which is turning out to be far better than I expected. On the daily newsletter update regarding shipboard activities, I noticed a Solo Traveler Lunch scheduled for noon and when I showed up, I had the pleasure of meeting a great group of people who, like myself, travel solo around the globe and enjoy every minute of it. Champagne first and then lunch at dedicated tables in the San Marco Restaurant. Definitely people I will enjoy spending time with, in the coming days.



An announcement was made about a drill to be held ship wide, in preparation in case of pirate attacks! The Gulf of Aden/coast of Somalia are areas renowned for this activity and though it’s highly unlikely an incident will occur, it’s a better safe than sorry practice. We enter the danger zone in the next two days – I almost have my fingers crossed an “enemy” boat would appear alongside….think of what I could do with that in this blog – boggles the mind….I have visions of me manning a water cannon on the starboard side, fighting off the invaders - LOL. Each night from 6pm to 6am, outside lights across the ship are switched off, access to the decks are blocked off, and every outside cabin must keep blinds drawn and no balcony lights. This is obviously to make the ship as invisible as possible to pirates, but it feels a little weird to be so “insulated” and not seeing the moon or stars. Thankfully, once we turn the corner at Aden and enter the Red Sea, this will all be over.



Arriving in Aqaba, Jordan an hour earlier than anticipated, we were greeted with a cloudless blue sky, brilliant sunshine and a cool breeze – probably around 75f and the coolest I have felt since arriving in the Emirates a few weeks ago.



A little bit of history:



The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a small country (approximately 6.5 million population) with few natural resources, but it has played a pivotal role in the struggle for power in the Middle East over the years. Jordan's significance results partly from its strategic location at the crossroads of what Christians, Jews and Muslims call the Holy Land. It is a key ally of the US and, together with Egypt, one of only two Arab nations to have made peace with Israel.



The desert kingdom emerged out of the post-World War I division of the Middle East by Britain and France. The population at that time was largely made up of tribes which had taken part in the Great Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire. Unlike Arab states to the south and east, Jordan has no oil of its own. Its resources are limited to phosphates, potash and agricultural produce, with the economy depending largely on services, tourism and foreign aid, of which the US is the main provider. Jordan prides itself on its health service, considered one of the best in this part of the world.



A 2-hour drive north thru the desert brought us first to the Movenpick hotel, located a short distance from the entrance to Petra. Here a buffet lunch was provided before the main event of the day – entering and exploring this world-famous location.



A little bit of history:



Although it is not known precisely when this fabulous city was built, it is believed to be at least 2,000 years old and quite possibly even older. It’s prosperity as the capital of the Nabataen Empire began in the 1^st century BC, resulted from the trade in frankincense, myrrh and spices – all valued as much as gold at that time. When the Roman Empire began its sweep of the known world it was annexed, but thankfully continued to thrive until a massive earthquake in 363 AD destroyed much of the city. Its downfall began with this earthquake and as new trades routes were discovered, Petra was ultimately abandoned. And so it remained, virtually deserted and lost to everyone but the occasional local Bedouin tribes until 1812, when a Swiss explorer by the name of Johannes Burckhardt set out to “discover” Petra. Posing as an Arab and able to speak the local dialect, he convinced one of his Bedouin guides to take him into this fabled location, and as they say, the rest is history!



Petra is also known as the Rose Red City, an appropriate nickname derived from the rock formations from which many of the structures were carved. The Nabataens buried their dead in intricate tombs which were cut out of the mountain sides. The city also contains temples, a theatre and, following the Roman annexation and later a strong Byzantine influence, a colonnaded street and churches were added. Many of the structures and monuments, including the most famous one, the Treasury, have been remarkably preserved to the current day. In addition to the magnificent remains of Petra, human settlement and land use can be traced back over 10,000 years, where fantastic natural, cultural, archaeological and geologic features merge. It truly deserves its title as one of the new Seven World Wonders and is also a World Heritage Site.



The tour bus parks close to the entrance of the archaeological park and with umbrella in hand (not about to get fired to a crispy critter on this trip), I’m off for the almost 3-mile hike down into the valley – thankfully downhill. It’s a gorgeous day with the promise of heat by later in the afternoon. Other options than the ankle express (aka walking) are available, such as horseback riding and a horse and carriage – both of which cost around $30 roundtrip. A few tourists chose these, but the majority were up for the hike, yours truly included. As I found out to my dismay, it is more than double if you don’t reserve a roundtrip ride at the very beginning. Otherwise you are looking at more than double for a one-way return to the entrance, and it’s uphill all the way – hard going when you’re already totally wiped out! Thankfully one of my solo traveler group friends was more than willing to split this cost of the return ride in a horse and carriage.



There are a total of 13 highlights to visit within Petra, but as they cover such a large area, most visitors usually settle for 3 or 4 at the most, which naturally are the most famous.



Entrance to the city is through the Siq, a narrow gorge over a mile in length, which is flanked on either side by soaring cliffs. Just walking through the Siq is an experience in itself. The colors and formations of the rocks are dazzling. This gorge resulted from a natural splitting of the mountain and at one time, a triumphal arch spanned the entrance. Two rock-carved water channels run along both sides.



Reaching the end of the Siq, you catch the first glimpse of the Treasury. This is an awe-inspiring experience. A massive façade carved out of the sheer, dusky pink rock-face and dwarfing



everything around it. It was created in the early 1st century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king and represents the engineering genius of these ancient people. Rising almost 120’ high, the Treasury is intricately decorated with Corinthian columns, decorative bands and figurines. Crowned with a funerary urn which, according to local legend, contains a pharaoh’s treasure. When soldiers of Napoleon’s army were here, they attempted to break open this urn by shooting at it from below – these bullet holes can still be seen, pockmarking the entire surface.



The row of monumental Nabatean tombs carved into the southern cliff face, are called the Street of Facades. These facades are crowned with corner crow-steps and pilasters. Tomb 67 is particularly remarkable for its upper cave, which was probably used to store the workers tools. The Theater, is carved into the mountainside at the foot of the High Place of Sacrifice, and consists of three sections of seating rows, separated by passages. Seven stairways ascend the auditorium which could accommodate up to 4,000 spectators. The back wall of the stage area was rebuilt by the Romans when they later occupied Petra. The cult complex of the High Place of Sacrifice includes a rectangular courtyard with benches, and an altar to the west is the actual platform which has a carved circular basin, to receive the blood of sacrificed animals.



The Royal Tombs is the name given to the four magnificent facades at the end of the central route thru the city. The Urn Tomb derived its name from the jar which that crowns its pediment. An inscription records that the hall, originally a royal tomb, was converted into a church in 447 AD. The Silk Tomb sports swirls of vividly-colored rock that make up its façade. The Corinthian Tomb is similar to the Treasury on its upper section, but this has eroded severely over time. Finally, the Palace Monument which dates to the 2^nd century AD, has a grandiose 5-story facade. A dam and water reservoir located behind this, were used to drain rainwater into a pool cut into the area near the podium, at the back of the tomb.



One of the largest monuments in Petra is the Monastery, which is dated to the early 2^nd century AD, built during the reign of King Rabel II. Its design was modeled after the Treasury, but the bas-reliefs there are replaced here by niches to house sculptures. This space was used for religious meetings, was later re-used as a Christian chapel and crosses were carved into the rear wall, giving this structure its name. This is probably the most difficult monument to visit, as it is accessed via more than 900 steep steps – most visitors hire a donkey for the ascent but some hardy souls climb it – better them than me! It is also located the furthest away from the Siq.



I spent a wonderful 2 hours taking in as much as possible, but then it was time to bid adieu to this marvel and make my way back uphill. Thank you Trish for sharing the carriage ride back up to the top – you probably saved me from cardiac arrest – think of the paperwork that would have resulted for the cruise line to deal with!



Totally exhausted and footsore, I dragged my happy ass back to the tour bus a little after 5pm and collapsed into my seat for the 2+ hour drive back to Aqaba. What an incredible day I just had. Visions of the incredible carvings still dancing around in my head helped me drift off into a light doze, and it was full dark by the time we stopped at the gangplank of the Constellation. Sitting for that length of time had stiffened the old hip and knee joints – I was barely able to stumble aboard and make it back to my cabin without falling flat on my face. I haven’t been this worn out in years, but then, I haven’t hiked some 6 miles in less than 3 hours in years either! A quick cold shower and change of clothes had me back almost in full fighting form (yeah right, in my dreams), and I headed downstairs to the San Marco Restaurant for a late dinner. Needless to say, I wasn’t able to make any entertainment events this night – I was face down on my bed by 10:30pm and out for the night.



Now it’s another stretch of 3 sea days beginning with rounding the tip of the Sinai and entering the Red Sea – for those not up on the latest religious news – this is the waterway Moses parted with his walking staff while the Pharaoh and his mighty army were in hot pursuit – wasn’t Charlton Heston wonderful in that movie? The Red Sea is wide enough that shores on either side are not visible, but this will change as we approach the mouth of the Suez Canal. As we transit this 95-mile (some say 101 miles long, but who’s actually measuring?) man-made shortcut to the Mediterranean, we will see various Egyptian towns along the west bank.



Entering the Gulf of Suez around midnight we dropped anchor, taking our place in the “holding pattern” in readiness for the canal transit. It resembled a herd of cattle preparing for the slaughter house – hopefully our fate will be somewhat less life threatening, and far more entertaining! Night transits are verboten, so here we sit until zero dark thirty, when the local pilots board the ship and we weigh anchor for our journey north to the Mediterranean and the European continent. Temperatures had dropped considerably since leaving the Arabian Peninsula in our rear-view mirror, and with the mercury hovering around 65f, it made perfect sense to have the balcony door wide open, sleeping deeply with the cool ocean air swirling around the cabin. Had the best night’s sleep in a very long time: note to self….keep balcony door open for the remainder of the cruise (temperature permitting)….beats medication any day of the week.



The anchor-raising motion had me awake around 5am and we slipped serenely into our allotted space, #4 in a convoy of 27 ships (cruise, cargo and oil tankers) and our next adventure began. Our passage thru the canal will take approximately 11+ hours, as speed is reduced to a virtual crawl, keeping a 2-mile distance between each vessel as we steamed towards the Delta.







A little bit of history:



The Suez Canal, which carries approximately 8%!o(MISSING)f the world’s trade goods, has over 18,000 vessels of every type passing through annually in both directions. This artificial waterway, connecting the Mediterranean with the Gulf of Suez (a part of the Red Sea), is a shortcut for ships operating between European ports and those located in southern Asia, eastern Africa and Oceania. As the Med and the Gulf have roughly the same water levels no locks are needed, which is not the case with the Panama Canal.



The very first canal between the Nile River and the Red Sea was excavated around the 13^th century BC. Over the next few centuries most of it was allowed to fall into neglect, with only occasional attempts by various rulers to modify or re-excavated the waterway. In 1858, the Universal Company of the Maritime Suez Canal was formed to cut a canal and operate it for the next 99 years, after which ownership would revert to the Egyptian Government. This excavation began on April 25, 1859 and finally the canal was opened to traffic on November 17, 1869, at a total cost of about $100 million. This number tripled in later years on repairs and improvements. An international convention signed in 1888, granted access to vessels of all nations during war and peace. Unfortunately, in spite of all good intentions (isn’t the road to Hell paved with those?), the canal would prove to be a center of conflict between Britain, Egypt and Israel (plus other nations) for years to come.



The Suez Canal was actually closed during the Six-Day War of 1967 between Egypt and Israel, when several ships were deliberately sunk, blocking the shipping lanes. Finally reopening in June 1975, after an international task force had cleared the waterway of these obstacles, and a peace treaty with Egypt in 1979, gave Israel unrestricted access to the canal. Today, not only is it a significant revenue-generating waterway but also a major tourist attraction, with many of the world’s largest cruise companies including a canal transit passage as part of their itineraries.



And so, we began our journey north with the Queen Mary 2 cruise ship directly in front of us, and a massive cargo ship in the rear, each vessel closely accompanied by a tug boat – it felt much like a primary school outing, with teachers keeping the kids in line! We passed towns on the west bank such as Suez, Abu Sultan, Ismailia and Port Said – they have increased in size a lot since I was last in this area years ago. During the lunch time hour, we slowly passed under the Suez Canal Bridge which is very similar in construction to the one in Boston. By 4pm we entered the Egyptian Delta and the Mediterranean Sea welcomed us with open arms. Speed increased leaving Africa far behind and the course was set northwest for Greece, where we will dock at Piraeus in a couple of days.



The weather is cooperating wonderfully: cloudless blue skies, brilliant sunshine and mercury hovering around 70f with a cool breeze. Nights drop to the low 60’s and yes, I do keep my balcony door open now – the sound of the waves crashing against the hull, lulls me to sleep in a heartbeat. During the day I spend time out on the balcony with feet propped up on the rail, soaking up the scenery, taking deep breaths of the brine-scented fresh air and contemplating my navel – what more could a woman ask for? Along with my Kindle and a glass of chilled white wine, well obviously I’m in hog heaven….Las Vegas is so far away both in distance and concept. And the biggest change for me? It’s not being connected to any electronic device for days on end and here was I, thinking I simply couldn’t last an hour without internet access! I haven’t checked emails or even the stock market results in almost a week….ain’t life grand?



Life onboard especially the sea days, easily settle into a pleasant routine, albeit a predictable one. Breakfast between 7:30 and 8:30am where I invariably meet new people, followed by a trivia game up on deck 11 at 10:15am. Lunch at noon with the solo travelers is always entertaining and as the days’ pass, we have become a solid core group of 8-10 Americans, Europeans, Brits, Ozzies and an occasional Kiwi. This same group then meets between 4-5pm every afternoon for two more trivia games, which coincide nicely with Happy Hour in the Rendez-Vous Lounge on Deck 4. I’m enjoying these lazy sea days far more than I would ever have expected to. There is one sea day remaining before the conclusion of this cruise, and I have no doubt there will be joy and sadness combined, as we bid each other au revoir on that day.



Arriving in Greece’s largest and primary port of Piraeus in the very early morning hours, I was greeted by the familiar sight of the terminal building and numerous tour buses lined up just below my balcony around 7am. It’s a warm humid morning, with the sun just rising over the nearby Kastella hills, which are covered by beautiful houses with magnificent views of the Saronic Gulf. Athens, one of the world’s oldest cities, is approximately 7 miles from Piraeus, and offers more levels of culture than any other Greek location. According to mythology, it was the gifts of the gods which makes Athens so special. The goddess Athena for whom the city is named, gave an olive tree as a token of her protection; the goddess Dionyssos gave a vine tree…..those two trees are the eternal symbols of the city. I have visited the Greek capital previously, so decided to stay in the vicinity of the ship, just going into the terminal building to see if I could get a decent internet connection. Alas this was not to be. Yes, they offer free Wi-Fi and yes, I was able to connect, but with the large number of other passengers attempting the same feat, I was unable to launch any website or my Outlook mail – the signal was simply too weak. Tomorrow I will be on another shore excursion which includes a lunch stop at a local hotel – much better chance then. I no doubt have a gazillion emails to download – could take a while.



The second and final port of call in Greece was Katakolon, a vibrant town with a countless array of waterfront cafes, souvenir shops and Grecian jewelers by the boatload. Its primary claim to fame is that it’s the gateway to one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, the ruins of ancient Olympia. Located just a short 40-minute drive from Katakolon, Olympia is the birthplace of the modern day Olympic Games. Here I got to walk along the actual track used by the first athletes, witness the site of the one of the original Seven Wonders of the World – the Temple of Zeus – and stand before the towering column where the Olympic flame originates, to this very day. The Great Stadium still faintly echoes with the roar of the crowds, cheering on the first sport superstars of the ancient world. Alexander the Great, Nero and Aristotle, all of whom came here to watch these first athletes vie for victory and gain favor from the gods. Who knows along these gravel paths, I could be walking in the footsteps of these great names from antiquity – now all I need is a toga, Roman sandals and a wreath of olive leaves on my head, and I would fit right in. Maybe a group photo with the aforementioned trio for prosperity?



It was an easy walk down into the Olympia ruins and I was quite prepared to stroll back uphill towards the tour bus, when I noticed a beautiful pair of horses pulling a fancy carriage by the entrance gate. Just 2 euros to ride into the village, I didn’t even hesitate, that’s cheaper than a bottle of water. What a delightful 10-minute ride I had, along with 5 other strangers, we enjoyed the shade, the cool breeze and viewing the countryside from the open-air carriage. Beats the ankle express in the midday heat, any day of the week.



Next stop was the Mercouri Winery, an old Greek family-owned estate established in 1864, with a 150-year old history in the production of quality wine and olive oil. In 1870 Theodore Mercouris imported cuttings of the Refasco variety from northern Italy and planted the first vineyard on the estate. In the 1930s, Leonidas Mercouris built a modern winery, equipped with underground wine tanks, which remained in operation until 1955. Thirty years later, the 3^rd and 4^th generations of the Mercouri family began a systematic effort to revive the wine making traditions of this historic property, with the introduction of branded products. The original winery was renovated and modernized and expanded to cover more than 16 acres. The old farmhouse is now a museum, housing a collection of old rural tools and instruments. Our tour ended with a walk down towards the beach, along wooded pathways, where tables were setup with a selection of estate products for sampling. Under the old pine trees, with a magnificent view of the Ionian Sea and the island of Zante, I enjoyed olives, cheeses, sliced prosciutto, tomatoes, cucumbers and crackers and let’s not forget the most important: a large bottle of red and an equally large bottle of white wine, which accompanied the food perfectly. A fabulous conclusion to a wonderful day of sightseeing…..needless to say, I was somewhat unsteady as I stumbled back to the bus an hour later – that wine was strong!



And so back to the ship, boarding my floating hotel for the last segment of the cruise and arriving in Italy in a couple of days. By the time we dock in Civitavecchia, we will have traveled some 4,682 nautical miles from Abu Dhabi, and even though the ship wasn’t the 5-star vessel it purported to be, I still had a great time overall. I seriously doubt I would ever sail on this ship again, but then, I’m not really a cruiser to begin with….I miss being on land every day!



Finally the last day dawned and I walked down the gangplank to my waiting coach at 8am, for the transfer into Rome, some sightseeing and then a drop-off at the Rome Airport Hotel where I will spend my last night in Europe. Rather than spend an entire day at the hotel before my flights home, I opted for a tour to visit the Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. I have visited St. Peter’s Square previously but never went inside Vatican City itself.



A little bit of history:



With just 110 acres of land area and approximately 1000 citizens, Vatican City is the world’s smallest country. It mints its own euros, has its own army, issues passports to its citizens, and has an anthem and even a flag. There are no border controls or security checks to enter Vatican City. Sitting on the other side of the River Tiber which borders Rome, Vatican City is just a short distance from the Castel Sant’Angelo.



Known for its religious importance and a storehouse of the world’s finest art – Vatican City is actually sitting on a pile of dead bodies! Roman Emperor Nero is said to have mass-crucified many Christians, including St. Peter the first bishop of Rome, who stood accused of setting the fire (untrue) which demolished much of Rome in 64 AD. Later during the 4^th century AD, Emperor Constantine started the construction of the Basilica with the suspected site of St. Peter’s tomb in the very center.



The Vatican Museum is one of the most revered, and is known for unique art collections gathered by various popes over the centuries. Many important masterpieces of the Renaissance period are housed here. With over 54 galleries on exhibit, it would be impossible to see them on a short day trip, so it was down to walking thru three consecutive galleries: Raphael Rooms to view precious works by this artist; Gallery of Maps displaying topographical maps of Italy, painted on the walls by Friar Ignazio Danti, and finally, the Tapestries Hall. Although more than 70,000 works are in Vatican City’s possession, only 20,000 of them are on display at any one time.



The Sistine Chapel is a chapel in the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope. Originally known as the Cappella Magna, the chapel takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, who restored it between 1477 and 1480. Since that time, the chapel has served as a place of both religious and functionary papal activity. Today it is the site of the Papal conclave, the process by which a new pope is selected. The fame of the Sistine Chapel lies mainly in the frescos that decorate the interior, and most particularly the Sistine Chapel ceiling and The Last Judgment by Michelangelo. Not many buildings become world famous for their ceilings. The amazing array of frescoes that Michelangelo painted over the course of four years, is full of instantly recognizable scenes, and attracts more than five million tourists every year.



St. Peter’s Basilica holds the claim as one of the holiest Catholic shrines and is regarded with great respect in the Christian world. The current pope attends the crowd on Wednesday and Sunday mornings. The actual construction of the Basilica took more than 100 years and without a doubt, the art work inside is one of the most incredible. Michelangelo’s Pieta is housed inside and is of course, a “must see” when visiting this holy site. It is also the largest Catholic Church on the planet and many couples are married here. The interior dome is another site not to be missed and is built in the renaissance style. Not only is the Basilica a holy place, but also an exquisite work of art in itself.



The day drew to a close as I arrived at the Hilton, more than ready for a cold shower, a cocktail and a chance to download my gazillion emails, to check on what the world had been up to during my absence. Upgraded to an executive floor suite, I dropped my luggage in the room, grabbed my laptop and headed for the lounge. Two other couples I had met on the ship were also staying here overnight and we reminisced on our cruise, pros and cons. It’s been a magical few weeks but home is calling and I do miss the desert. And where do I go next, you ask? Well stay tuned, subscribe to my online blog and find out! Cheers…..

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