Don't be so Impetraous...(sorry)

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I left for the resort town of Eilat the following morning, waking up at 6am to catch the 7am bus. The ride went off without a hitch. Four and a half hours later, I was in Eilat. Since Lee left me the name of the hostel, I looked it up in my guidebook and walked about 5 min. out of the bus station to the hostel. Needless to say, it was warm and sunny, right around 1130am. I wasn't sure if Lee was going to be around, but I checked into the room he already payed for. He wasn't there, so I decided to go and see some of Eilat. Earlier, I read about activities like scuba diving, snorkeling, hiking, and an underwater aquarium. None sounded interesting enough, since just on the other side of the Red Sea, I could take part in most of these activities at more well known locations with water that was much clearer.
I walked down toward the direction of the beach, looking for the Coral Beach Nature Reserve. After walking for 30 min., a local pointed out to me that the center was 5km away. Leave it to me to overlook the key and not see that myself. I hailed a taxi, tail between my legs. Snorkeling wasn't so much fun. The water was cold and the rented snorkel and mask wasn't exactly clear enough to see the coral and fish. Nonetheless, I did see some interesting and bright colored fish, just feet away from my fingertips.
After I finished showering, I headed to my locker, located outside. Lee must have seen my note that I left in the room because he strolled in from the entrance. I told him not to waste his money. We decided to head back into town and drop off my dirty drawers and grab a bite. Thank God he had a rental car. We could come and go as we pleased. We headed to an Irish Pub of all places, right in the center of town, a few hundred meters from the beach. I was starving at this point, so I ordered chicken wings and a pint of Guiness, yes Guiness.
We picked up our laundry and headed back to the room. The plan weas to fold our laundry and go back out for a cup of coffee. We wound up at a cafe/sandwich bar next to the Irish Pub. We met Shai, the 23 year old hostess/waitress/bartender. Actually, Lee met her the previous day, after my battery charger debacle. She was a very attractive brunette with darker Mediterranean features. A self proclaimed hippie, Shai was born and raised in a kibbutz for most of her life. At her age, she had travelled quite a bit, hitting up a good number of countries. Her plan was to head to India for 3 months some time soon. She was extremely friendly, funny, and charming.
After coffee and lounging, we decided to head back, shower up, have a couple of brews in the room, and grab a bite to eat before partying a bit. We told Shai that we would see her later. There wasn't much else to do, nothing of much significance we could see after nightfall. At this point, we were both pretty tired, but we were half way around the world, so time was important to me. About 2 hrs. later, we headed back to Shai's place for sinner. I'm not sure the name of the dish, but I had some scrambled egg concoction; scrambled eggs in a baking pan, topped with mozzarella and pasta sauce. It was actually pretty good. Shai sat down with us and ate from my dish. It was quite obvious that Lee had a bit of a crush on her. He had told me as much. I sat back and watched most of the time, interjecting with a joke here and there, my own amusing observations being kept to myself. I was rooting for him, but she already had a boyfriend, who we saw earlier.
We spent most of the night at the cafe, since she was working until 1am. We talked and joked most of the night. Shai occassionally got up to help customers. We met a 13 year old girl that Shai knew from around town. She had make up on and was out way too late, socializing with guys that looked older than me. I told her to watch out for her little sister. Shai said that there was nothing she could do for her. She was a victim of her own fate, actions, and lack of discipline and parenting. It was sad to think about what her future would be like. Life could be hard in Israel.
Lee and I grabbed a drink at the Irish pub at about midnight, just to get out of the cafe and the crisp, cool air. Again, we told Shai that we woiuld see her before she took off at 1. The abrtender poured Lee a tall glass of rum for his bottle of coke. I had a Long Island Iced Tea. Afterwards, we headed next door to see Shai again. It was getting late, but we kept her company at her request. About a half hour went by before we decided to head back. Lee was going to drive me to the border of Israel and Jordan, so I could get on the 1030 bus to Petra. We had to make an early start the next morning. We said our goodbyes and told her to e-mail us anytime if she wanted to come and see DC.
The next morning, Lee drove me a few km to the border. I thanked him for the ride. I knew I would see him again, so it wasn't a big deal. Besides, I had to return the fleece he lent me the evening before. The border was much simpler than I expected. Actually, I'm not sure what I expected, but it wasn't that. A number of booths were set up for exchange, passport control, and security. It was a simple enough process. Leave it to me to fuck it up. After fumbling around at the wrong side and booth, I eventually made it over to the Jordanian side. In between the two checkpoints was a stretch of no man's land, maybe 100 meters, where I was all alone. I pulled out my guidebook to check on a few choice Arabic phrases before going through the formalities on the Jordanian side. After security, getting my Visa Stamped, and photo taken, I headed over to the Visitor's Center and grabbed some free literature on some of Jordan's sacred sites. Afterwards, I headed over to the taxi stand. I needed to get to the resort town of Aqaba and catch the 1030 bus to Petra. A direct 2 hr. cab ride would cost $50, cash I didn't want to spend. The taxi driver convinced me to pay 20 JD (roughly $30) and share a taxi with 2 other tourists. I agreed, not wanting to wait for a bus that may or may not come. I rode with a young Brazilian couple. We chatted for most of the time, I occassionally nodding off. The landscape was a stark contrast to what I saw in Israel. They were both desert, but the arts of Israel that I saw was more developed, Jordan more undisturbed. I hadn't secured a place to stay yet, so I checked the guidebook for names of good, trustworthy hostels. I picked one and let the taxi driver know. It turned out that the location of my hostel was directly across the street from the young couple.
I said goodbye and told them that I would see them later. I walked into a small hostel on the side of one of the main roads in Wadi Musa, one of few. It looked clean enough and the receptionist, a Filipina who had moved here for work some years ago, waited on me. I asked for the cheapest accomodations she had. For 6 JD (9$), I would be in a 4 person bunk. Fortunately, no one else was staying in that room. I had it all to myself. I settled in before heading back upstairs. My plan was to purchase a 3 day pass, as I wanted to see "Petra at night," a program which they offered Thursday night, according to the guidebook. Well, it was only Tues., so in my mind, I had to stay.
The owner of the establishment asked me if I wanted to share a taxi with two others to see Little Petra. Since it was already after noon, and Petra closed at 5, I mulled it over and agreed. There was no entrance fee and the ride to the location was only 10 JD round trip, split 3 ways. I met a young German couple, both 22 and 23 yr. old law students. There names escape me right now. We headed to Little Petra after grabbing lunch at a local shop just down the street. There wasn't too much to see, but what we did see was pretty impressive; structures carved into the side of canyon walls, sand croaking under my feet.
We trekked through about 500 meters in between the canyons, before passing a Bedouin table where trinkets and coffee/tea were being sold. We came upon a ledge overlooking the path below and more canyons in front of us. It was extremely quiet, aside from the Bedouin man offering us a drink and seat on his makedhift becnh, the wind, and the birds. No other tourists were around, as the others that we passed earlier decided not to make the climb. We sat for 2 hrs., drinking coffee, talking, and snapping photos from different positions on the cliff. At one point, I closed my eyes, supinated my hands at my sides, and felt the wind pass over and through me, listening to its gentle whisper. I breathed many sighs of releif and was thankful to be in such a position, after so many days and nights of being surrounded by people.
We arrived back at the hostel at 5PM. Dinner was at 630, an apparently unlimited buffet for 5 JD. I thought, "these people are crazy! They don't knowe who they're dealing with." Since I had some time to kill, I sat in the lobby and read parts of my guidebook to see what was in store the next morning. I met a few other travelers, Ryan, a 24 yr. old native New Yorker, and a couple of 20 and 21 yr. old guys from of all places, Iceland. Since there is only about 300,000 peopl in all of Iceland, I met a decent percentage that night. The German couple and I decided to watch Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the one with Petra at the end. They weren't joining us for dinner, so I sat with my new friends. After dinner, we decided to grab a drink at the Cave Bar, a local establishment near the entrance to Petra. Its gimmick was that it was carved from a canyon.
15 min. later, we were there. It was as described. The facade, the booths against the wall, the stairs; all were carved from the stone. It was very well insulated, the cool rock keeping the temperature steady. We drank a pint and decided to smoke a sheesha (hookah). Berry flavored tobacco filled our lungs as we sipped on Amstel and a cocktail afterward. It was empty when we arrived, fairly crowded with geezers when we left. Coincidentally, the music began blaring as soon as we exited. That was okay though, as we had an early and long day ahead of us. We decided to heave breakfast at 6am, therby allowing us to leave the hostel and be at Petra by 7am.
It was difficult getting up the next morning. However, the long time dream I had of seeing Petra, especially after seeing the Indian Jones movie for the first time years ago, drove me onward. The damn theme song to the trilogy was playing in my head constantly. In fact, the day before, that was the only song we were all humming. The temps. were probably in the 50's quite colder than what i expected. All 6 of us walked down together, and for the next 10 hours, we explored Petra together. I can't really put into words what I saw. The Treasury, Petra's most recognizable structure, was immense. The path to this site was impressive as well. The Monastery, Petra's second most recognizable and important structure, was just as impressive. We had to hike up over 1800 meters just to see that one. By the time we arrived at noon, we were too hungry and thirsty to enjoy and savor it. That would come after lunch. There are hundreds of tombs and carved structures in the sandstone. I can't imagine what it was like in its hey day. The time it took to accomplish all these things....let's just say that I wouldn't have wanted to be a part of that crew. Writing about the day would just be too much. The pictures don't do it justice, but take a look anyway.
At 3pm, we headed back toward the entrance, about 4km away. By this time, we were all tired. The climb back up the hill to the hostel was on our minds. These thoughts weren't pleasant and of course, i was hungry again, which didn't improve things. We made it back without incident, trudging up the hill in silence.
Shower, food, and drink was on my mind. The shower was first. I peeled off my sweat laden clothing and hopped into the toilet/shower. Of course, there was no cold water, so I continued to bathe in scalding hot water. Whatever. I was getting clean, and that was the most important thing. Dinner was 2 hrs. later and I couldnt wait. I munched oin cashews and an orange. I had been thinking about dinner all day; lamb. Enough said.
I din't speak more than 3 words after dinner was ready. I spoke wuite a few more afterwards. The Icelanders and Ryan and I decided to check out a backpackers hotel tonight. Apparently, it is supposed to ahve a decent bar. Yes, another bar. There's nothing to do after dusk, so we will go out and grab a beer and meet a few more people. I plan to spend one more night here in Wadi Musa. Then I will catch a ride over to Wadi Rum, a nature reserve. This is where I will really get some alone time. I expect to spend 2 days and nights there camping and trekking through the desert alone. I may decide to spend one night in a Bedouin camp. I'll decide thjat when I arrive. After Wadi Rum, off to Egypt! I may not be able to blog for a few days, sicne Wadi Rum doesn't have internet access....at least I don't think it does. Be safe all....
I'm writing this blog within the span of 2 days, since internet access is expensive here and the connection speeds aren't all that great when downloading pics. Today, I went back to Petra. I had to see the sun's rays hitting the facade of the Treasury. This happened around 9am. After a night of a few beers with the Icelanders, I headed out to see Petra again with the Germans. I said my goodbyes to the Icelanders, Kristjan and Eybor, and Ryan. We exchanged information and would be keeping in touch.
The sun hitting the Treasury was truly a sight to behold. Too bad the scenery was infected by huge tour groups. I realize everyone has a right to see such amazing architecture. But there's just something about huge masses of people snapping away at photos, littering, and generally polluting everything they lay they're hands on that gets to me. I'm sorry, do I sound bitter? 😉
We decided to take a different route today. The decision was made to take it easy, find a quiet place to sit with a nice view, and just relax. And that is exactly whjat we did. The weather, on the other hand, missed our earlier meeting and decided not to cooperate. It was cold, probably in the 50's all day, with no sunlight. When the sun did come out, it was only to tease us, taunting us with a bit of hide and go seek. We sat atop a ledge overlooking Colonnade St. (I think that's what its called). I layed on the cold rock and fell asleep. I awoke to Anita and Julian staring at me with an amused look. I guess I had been snoring. We stayed up there for a couple of hours before IU decided I had had enough. I made the decision to head to the fortress before heading back to the hostel for a quick bite. We met with another German couple I had met the night before. We talked and sat for awhile. Dan, the American, white bearded, singer showed up. He hadn't lived in the States for 24 years. He currently resided in Damascus. We made the walk back to the hostel, Anita, Julian and I stopping at a local restaurant for a quick snack of shwarmas and falafels.
Okay, so I napped for the next 3 hrs. or so. I'm headed to dinner with 2 American girls, and 1 Aussie, all students studying Arabic in Damascus. Anita and Julian disdappeared, but I'm sure I'll run intoi them later. I still plan on going to Wadi Rum tomorrow....2 nights virtually alone under the desert sky, solitude, no large tourists around sound absolutely amazing. Again, I'm not sure when I'll be able to blog again.

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Photos

Jordan
asleep on the job

Petra
Can you see me?

Petra
The Monastery

Petra
Highest point in Petra, by the Monastery

Petra
Julian, Anita, and I in front of the Treasury

Petra
In front of the amphitheater

Petra
Joe Camel and his crew...

Petra
more tombs...

Wadi Musa
Smoking the sheesha with Max, Anita, and Julian