The Modern Middle East

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Hello friends and neighbors. I know it's been a while since the last blog, written from Basel. Now it's time to bring you up to date. We have been in Israel for a week so far; we visited our old stomping grounds in Herzliya, then drove southward towards the warmth of the spring sun, to the Negev, the Arava, and Eilat. We’ll be here two more weeks, mostly in Jerusalem (next blog)

Everybody has a preconceived notion of what Israel is about, but nobody can put their finger on one description. It’s a land of extremes: inhabitants from a hundred countries, Jews of Ashkenazi and Sephardi and Mizrachi and Asian background. Habits, traditions, and customs go back hundreds of years.

There’s not one Israeli-Jewish-looking visage. There are blacks and blondes and dark and light faces. Big families, safe streets to walk around at night, even for young folks. We see 10 year old kids out by themselves in the evening (unlike South Africa, where nobody can walk at night). Although every Israeli citizen directly knows somebody affected by middle-eastern wars and the intifada, the daily life is open, confident, happy, but the country is always prepared, defensively.

As a result of the recent elections, the nation has turned to the left-center, with the election of the Kadima party, willing to give up land for peace, if there is a negotiations partner.

Israel is very small; one-twentieth the size of California, and one-700th of the area of its neighboring Arabic lands.

The landscape is varied, from leafy, woody, almost tropical foliage in the north to dry desert of the south; to drive from north to south takes 6 hours; to cross the country from east to west (Tel Aviv to Jerusalem) takes 45 minutes. Nothing is predictable in this energetic land.

Now, enjoy the photos.

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Photos

Take Me Home, Desert Roads
Newly paved road, formerly dirt track, through the Arava desert in southern Israel.

Welcome, in Three Languages
The two official languages of Israel are Hebrew and Arabic; English is a close 3rd, followed by Russian and French and dozens other...

Hapag, Bring Us Home
Hapag, using its Munich hub, has lowered the cost of flying from central Europe to Israel from a previous standard of $700-1000, to a competitive $320, round trip.

Herzliya Beach
When teaching in the 80's at the American Int'l School, we lived in Herzliya, named for Theodor Herzl, visionary of Zionism (the right of every Jew to return to the land of Israel).

This Is Israel
At least part of the immigration story: Israeli teenager, son of recent Ethiopian immigrants, in front of a flower shop opened by recent Russian immigrants, in Arad.

Shepherd in the City
Female tends sheeps in the desert air, just 2 blocks from modern homes in Arad.

Emma
Born in India, grew up in Israel, moved to Marin County (worked in child care with Evi), now back in Arad; makes the best Indian-Iraqi food you every tasted!

Lounging at the Dead Sea
About 400 meters below sea level, near the historical location of Sodom and Gamorra, all is still except for the splashing of the salty waves and the strolling of the tourists to the newly-built McDonald's.

Pilpelim
That's Hebrew for peppers, grown in the millions by Israeli desert farmers, irrigating by drip, using modern science to raise and export around the world. Picked in Israel on Monday, on your plate by Wednesday.

Thai Flower Packers
Reliable Thai workers, recipients of Israeli work permits, support their families back home with their incomes; they now do the work formerly done by Palestinians.

Salatim
Variety of tasty and spicy salads, placed on your restaurant table with pitta bread, and costing $3-4 per person (for the whole tray, free refills...). Wash it down with a Maccabee lager, and you're in business!

Solomon's Pillars
Since the time of the Egyptians and King Solomon, copper and mineral have been mined in the dry desert in Timna, just north of Eilat.

Beach of Eilat
...with the hills of Jordan in the background. Just a few steps into the water, and you can see millions of beautiful fish, feeding on the (diminishing) coral supply.

Herod's Palace
First class hotel in Eilat

Comments

[Cynthia]

Israeli Tapas?
Hi to you both from Cynthia, your pictures are wonderful! What a terrific voyage you are on. If you never return to Marin, I'll understand why. I am most intrigued by all the little delectable items on your tray- like an Israeli tapas spread. I want to try them ALL! And what a price... Buon Viaggio : )