Stewart: Angst, Part 2

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Boy, it's been a rollercoaster here. Until today, I've been afraid this was one big 11-month mistake. Here we are in a strange country, we don't speak the language, and we don't know anybody. I felt very isolated. My despondency increased when Betsy relayed the experience of an American who came to Haifa for a year of study on a Fulbright scholarship. The woman reported in her blog that it took her 3 months to feel comfortable here. The only thing that kept her in Israel was that her return flight—already purchased—was a year out. And she came alone, which made things much worse. I can't imagine it. (By the end of her stay, of course, she didn't want to leave. I skipped that part of the story.)

I started this morning with my usual ritual. Seated at a table on the patio with sweet Turkish coffee and a computer, reading the NYT. Very pleasant, really. It's lovely here in the morning. Perfect temperature and so clear. I was a little depressed. But Betsy had other ideas. Out we went to explore the city. A walk downtown (it really is DOWNtown here; we live on top of a ridge) to find the shouk (outdoor market) and the bus station. The shuk because outdoor markets are always colorful and fun. The bus station because we needed to figure out how to get around.

Things began pleasantly enough. It was still cool outside, the walk was downhill, and the views of the port were fantastic. However, when we got to what the map said was the central bus station, we found it was an office. No one there to explain the bus system. An employee in a rush (the one person who spoke English) told us the number of a bus we could take to another central bus station that could help us. By this time, my confidence in our ability to navigate the city was shot.

Fortunately, the day improved. Some kind folks at a bus stop confirmed the number of the bus we needed to take. Bus drivers were patient and understanding. Even ticket sales personnel (behind protective glass) answered our questions good-naturedly. We got the scoop on tickets and passes, succeeded in taking two different buses to two places, and are coming to know the city and how to get around it. I feel so much better about being here than I did this morning. Haifa really is a beautiful city with a lot of fascinating neighborhoods. I'm now really excited to explore. (The one really surprising—and disappointing—thing we found out today is that there is no map of bus routes!!! The map is in people's heads. You have to walk around the city and take buses. That's how you learn it.)

So, things are looking (way) up.

On another note: sometimes it's the little things that make life challenging—things you take for granted at home. Like appliances. They're different here. We had to learn how to use the following.

1. Water heater. Normally it's off; you turn it on before you take a shower. How to turn it on was the mystery. We took cool showers for several days. Thank goodness it's summer here and the cold water isn't too cold.
2. Gas cooktop. Depress the knob after you turn it or the gas won't come out.
3. Dishwasher. Cycles on the front written in Swedish—at least I think that's what it is. Hebrew is hard enough—now we have to be trilingual.
4. Washing machine. Only 4 buttons, but each associated with a cryptic picture. Some of the pictures still don't make sense, but we got the clothes clean.
5. Oven. Confusing dials with more cryptic symbols. Too complicated to explain.
6. Microwave. See number 5.

Life is easier now. We can clean and cook.

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