Iran desert, through Bam, Kerman to Yazd

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Now moved out of Asia into the Middle East - an ancient Persian culture.



My trip through Iran had been set up months ago with Touran Zamin, to provide a guide necessary for entry into iran with my own vehicle, with a plan to visit the main tourist destinations while traveling north-west to Turkey. So I have a tight schedule to maximise the tourist hit, 3 rest days otherwise move every day.



Stayed in Zaheedan for one night, bit of an interview with security before I was allowed to leave with my passport, concerned for my security, and also want to monitor all US, Canadian and UK citizens. Agreed would have police escort to Bam 330km, bit slow to start but otherwise very efficient.



Left Zaheedan at 11:30, it was hot, but if U drink water and keep moving on bike, it is bearable, have to admit for a week I have been riding in shirtsleeves, with kneepads. But still 6hrs in desert 43°C was the toughest day, our water got hot, like drinking bath water! then ran out! Pulled into Autleck? Hotel in Bam arround 6pm, wasted.



Thursday visited Bam fortress Arg-e Bam, which was 80% destroyed by Earthquake in 2003, with an astounding 26,000 casualties, mainly because of mud building construction. Locals are now rebuilding the fort.



So only 160km to Kerman, we stopped in King's Garden en route, a cool water garden. Water again the essential ingredient, which flows from ... Mountains to west. Kerman has a covered bazaar about 2.5km long, with side galleries to authentic bath house and tea house (We had Kerman ice cream, bit like frogs-sporn with ice cubes).



Early start to Yazd another 360km, we arrived good time 1pm, but every time we arrive at in a city the guide cannot find hotel without asking for directions, probably 5 times, once we ended with a local sat in guides car. The Mehr hotel in Yazd is quite well hidden down an alley off main shopping street. 3 extra tourist visits before I was allowed to rest, Irrigation museum, top restaurant by taxi, and Zoroastrian burial towers on edge of town, save fire tower for next morning.



Kebabs are popular here, meat cooked on steel stick over a charcoal fire, but then plated up with salad & covered with cling film, plates stacked till ordered, result is cold food. Better go to fast food joint, see cold kebab, they cook it, U eat - yum yum. Cornflakes for breakfast are rare, often see fried eggs, in almost every hotel since Poland.





In Iran all ladies (very much tourists too) must wear a head scarf - but rarely an all black outfit, they are more visible running hotels and shops, some drive too. At exercise club, was bit surprised girls turned up, as just recently a dual nationality British girl was arrested for watching men's volleyball match.

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Photos

Iran is different again.
Typical Mosque perhaps little more special, but in other ways too, roads are better but traffic rules are less obvious, Ladies have more visible roles, so many things.

New team
Yellow taxi, has Mr Yazd my guide, and Ali his driver, Police escort and a lot of open road.

Desert
Iran has it's fair share of nothing too.
Desert for miles, with mountain then desert again.

Zaheedan restaurant area.
Bit out of town to north, bit above city surrounded BT trees, so cooler.

Supper in Iran
Typical lounge style seating, 1 of 40. Huba-buba pipe is just smoking in another form, makes me cough. Kebabs arrive with salad on plate with kling film, but bit cold, quite tasty.

Tent style loungers
So if U live in city & want to get bit of authentic eating out, tent might remind U of cultural history.

Hubs buba pipe
For sale or rent not sure.
On top bit burning g charcoal, sits above tobacco (can be fruit flavoured), with tube down to bowl of water, So when user sucks, hot smoky air is pulled down over tobacco , bubles though water.

Bam before Earthquake
Big towers are common feature of these forts, but this style has weak resistance to earthquakes.

Bam fort today
Making big effort rebuild.
Was big tourist attraction in area, but that had slowed recent years.

Steel frame buildings
New build in Bam, local building regs require this design.

Kings Garden
Water makes it possible, big trees growing for years.
Source is boiling steam in mountains, given chance I would gone looking for source, guide was not keen.

Kerman Bazzar
Hall approx 5m wide, with domed roof, but like one too another, maybe 200 dooms. In arches to each side are different vendors, shoes, carpets, silks, nuts & spices, clothes, jewellery, kitchen pots, etc, etc. Lots of bustle, odd bike drives though it all.

Bath house museum.
Off side of Bazaar is this suite of rooms, originally for city folk to clense themselves, fine architecture.

Kerman ice cream
My guide wants to show me every local attraction, so arrive at Hotel & stop, no it's off we go to Bath house, fort or Museum, here was strange ice cream and local musician.

Zoroastrian tower of silence
Big hill with round turret on top near Yazd.
Used in burial ceremony for Zoroastrian faith, disused now, good walk with fine view of city.

Yazd Mosque rebuild project.
Difficult to describe how they would use finished structure. Big basket was used to carry body of an Inman about in ancient times, took 100 fit men to carry it, stopped some years ago after some were trampled.

Exercise club.
Well was sold to me as sporting event, normally has element of competition and a winner. This had MC with mike & drum (would chant rhythm, 18..30 men in ring would follow a lead, press up, twisting, twirling or spinning, then with big cabers would hold up move around shoulder, finally shake big weighted stell bow above their heads to finish. Bizzar.