Churches in Iran? You're kidding (VI)

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June 4th 2007

Published: June 4th 2007

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Yuki Jen

Qara Kirisa - St Thaddeus' Church

shame we dont know where he's buried to this day!

Iranians and their hospitality shall never let you leave the country without gaining extra kilos/pounds. Locals lure the weird-looking tourists with treats such as spaghetti 'n' ice cream, iced melon, juicy kebabs and fresh bread in exchange for posing with them in photos. Such generous offers become brutal to your expanding waistline as the 22nd street vendor offers their sexy merchandise. Mmmm....that's a hot chicken sandwich you got there, mate. Three photos with you, your pal Mohammed, and your cousin Ali Reza? All right, deal.

In the city of Urumieh, mosques and Armenian churches are located close to one another by the bazaar. 'What, churches in Iran? WTF?' you may think - indeed, there's even a famous church built over the tomb of one of the three wise men here. In fact it is said that the 'magi' three wise men were from Persia. There are approximately 2.5 million Christians in Iran, majority of them Armenian Orthodox ever since the 19th century Qajar dynasty allowed the migration of Armenians fleeing from Ottoman persecutions in Turkey.

I checked out the famous church of one of the magi that day, a compound of a modern and ancient church with courtyards.

Qara Kirisa

Maku. See what i mean about black and white?

Unlike Greek orthodox churches, the walls were quite plain and simple. the interior of the ancient church was quite primitive, looking like an old hut with niches for votive offerings. Immaculate carpets depicting holy scenes (Mary cradling Jesus, mature and bearded Jesus with his arms spread out) were everywhere, and the holy areas for bishops and priests were lit up in blue lights - sadly, i didnt know this and blasphemously stepped into the realm and japanese-ly took photos. oops.

One of the highlights of the trip came about as I got to the city of Maku, at the Turkish border. There is a beautiful black and white church in the mountains called Qara Kirisa, where it is said that one of the disciples, St Thaddeus, founded the church in 42 ACE. Located in the middle of nowhere, it's worth the bumpy 2 hour ride on ass-hostile gravel roads. It combines Persian, Islamic, Christian and Roman architecture.

It originally was built of black stone, but the structure toppled into pieces after a huge earthquake in the 19th century. the Qajar ruler of the time rebuilt it with white stone, providing the marvellous black-and-white colouring to this day. Thaddeus

Qara Kirisa

Brilliant reliefs, a combo of Christian, Roman, Islamic and Persian design

is said to have been martyred by the local ruler of the time, who was jealous of his influential status that converted over 2000 people. They were all butchered in 64 ACE, and Thaddeus was buried somewhere near the church, but in an unknown location.

On the way to the hotel in Maku, we came across a local wedding ceremony on the street, where young men held hands and danced around in circles to a drum beat as they sang. Obviously, I decided to join in at the end of the line, expecting it to be a short deal but ends up I was sweating after 20 rounds jumping up and down. The drum player goes around collecting money (approximately a dollar or less), as he triumphantly beats his instrument and chants verses as others look on and sing along...

The hotel was located on a hill in the middle of the small town. Maku is probably the closest location to Turkey, and the locals speak more Turkish and Azeri than official Farsi. Bedbugs and green mosquitoes decided to take sleep away from my options as I dozed off in the lobby at 3 in the morning, and