A cultured conclusion to a formidable trip

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After spending the night in Kyrenia, we take the local bus to Lefkoşa. Furtunately, this time we have about half a day to explore the historic Old City, its northern part, that is. We get off the bus just outside Kyrenia Gate, the most frequently used access point to the Old City. Inside, it doesn't take us long to stop at one of the many cafés/pastry shops. Realising we won't be getting this in a while, we gorge ourselves on yummy Turkish sweets, custards and puddings, and wash it all down with tea and fresh ayran.

Further down the road, we pass yet another Atatürk statue and a couple of small, appealing mosques, before entering the famous Büyük Han. A rare surviving example of a medieval caravanserai (which is probably the coolest word ever), the Büyük Han (Great Inn) was built in 1576 by the local Ottoman governor. During the Ottoman period, traders and travellers could find accomodation and a place to trade their goods here. These days the two-storey structure houses some unique craft shops, tacky souvenir stalls, art galleries, cafés, as well as cultural peformances. We spent a few hours browsing the shops for handmade lamps, jewellery, handicraft, pottery and clothes.

Passing by the Büyük Hamam (Great Bathhouse), we arrive at the impressive and intimidating Selimiye Mosque. Looking at this rather strange building, one gets the feeling something doesn't quite fit here. The structure seems to be that of a typical Gothic church, were it not for the two soaring minarets. Our little city plan tells us that, in fact, in 1209, building on the Agia Sofia Cathedral started. It was eventually finished some 200 years later. With the Ottoman occupation of Cyprus in 1570, the cathedral was turned into a mosque, and unfortunately, in the process, much of its rich decoration, frescoes, sculptures, stained-glass windows and adornments were destroyed. Its twin minarets - complete with fluttering Turkish and Turkish Cypriot flags in between - are visible from pretty much anywhere in the Greek Cypriot part of the Old City.

As a neutral bystander, I can only marvel at the petty, even childish one-upsmanship on display in this particular conflict. "Soooo, we've just invaded this island, killed the men, raped the women, what do we do next? I know! Let's go loot and masturbate on the walls in this house where these infidel idiots worship some supernatural schnicklefritz, and then let's turn it into a house where we worship our supernatural nincompoop. Does that sound like a plan? Who's with me?" Legend has it that in Korea, people from the north and the south used to square off at the border, making faces and poking their tongues out at each other. I wouldn't be surprised if here in Cyprus the guards on the minarets utilised megaphones to tell 'Your momma!'-jokes at the Greek Cypriots, or to remind them each and every day that "We are in your chu-urch, nene-nene-neeeeeneehh!"

Anyway, after having a good look at the impressive portals, which look like they could belong to Strasbourg Cathedral or Notre Dame de Paris, we enter the mosque. Before doing so, we take off our shoes and J. puts on one of the headscarves provided right at the entrance. There's a big sign right in front that says (in several languages) that visitors are very welcome, however they should behave in a respectful manner, and women should cover up. White dominates the spacious, sparsely decorated interior. I can almost envision the nave approaching the high altar, lined by long wooden benches where now a few middle-aged women kneel atop a Turkish carpet in devout prayer.

All of a sudden, a couple enters the mosque. The chick wears short shorts, a sleeveless shirt, her blonde hair uncovered. To add insult to injury, they are loudly chatting in German. I decide it'd be best to let her know women are supposed to cover up in mosques, as indicated by the giant sign and the big basket full of long skirts and headscarves they were passing right at the fucking entrance. She gives me a dirty look that seems to say: "Who the fuck are you to tell me what to do?" I return the favour and look at her in the most pitying, condescending manner I can muster, telepathically transmitting to her: "Allow me to beg your indulgence for a moment. I am a world-savvy traveller, and I am better than you. You're acting like a harlot. Vacate these premises immediately!" Luckily at that very moment the caretaker comes running in and tells them the exact same thing I just did before. While he's busy ushering them out, a British couple with a young child enters behind his back. Needless to say, the female half of the couple isn't properly covered up. They walk to the back of the mosque, passing right in front of the praying women, who appear to be slightly taken aback by this unexpected intrusion, while the little brat is busy running around screaming.



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After that much excitement, we are in dire need of a breather. We find a nice little restaurant on a picturesque square right behind the cathedral-mosque, where we eat a decent pasta lunch. Outside, kids are playing football, while a shady-looking guy tries to make out with a roughly 12-year old girl sitting at the fountain in the centre of the square. We watch the scene for a while, bemused and repulsed a the same time.

Afterwards, we walk to the southwest of the Old City, trying to find an Armenian church, which proves to be rather difficult. After asking several people, we are directed to a fenced-off construction site, where a ruined building with a small tower seems to indicate that this used to be the Armenian church at some point in time. A few alleys further, we find ourselves in the historic Arabahmet Quarter, a charming mixture of well-preserved and dilapidated houses in narrow alleys. We are not far away from the Green Line and the buffer zone, and just like in Nikosia, the silence is overwhelming, almost creepy. Nobody except us seems to be out and about, only a little white dog follows our every step, as if he'd be completely lost without us.

All things considered, Lefkoşa is much more appealing and interesting than Nikosia. They might be the same city, but during almost four decades of separation, the south has become just another modern, dull capital city full of boring, expensive boutiques, cafés and restaurants filled with dull, haughty people. The north has kept more of its traditions, which makes it appear a bit backwards at times, but also a lot more cultured than its southern part.

I don't feel I have the legitimacy to predict what the future has in stock for Cyprus, but I can't imagine a reunification taking place in the next 50 or so years. Human stupidity and obstinacy has proven much stronger than the will to reconcile time and time again. This island in particular, which is historically and geographically a meeting point of Orient and Occident, will most likely continue to be fiercely contested, and its inhabitants will have to endure much more. Or maybe not, you never know.

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Photos

Inner courtyard of the Büyük Han with small chapel in the middle
Büyük Han translates to Great Inn and is a wonderful example of Ottoman architecture as well as a rare surviving examle of a medieval caravanserai (roadside inn); in the middle of the inner courtyard stands a mescit (chapel) balanced on six pillars over a Şadırvan (ablutions fountain)

Statue of Dr. Fazıl Küçük
Dr. Fazıl Küçük was a vocal advocate for Turkish Cypriots rights and eventually became the first Vice President of the Republic of Cyprus in 1959

Kyrenia Gate
One of the original three gates in the north part of the city walls, built during the Venetian period in 1562

Venetian Column
In 1489, the column was moved from Salamis to Lefkoşa as a tribute to Venetian rule in Cyprus

Arts and craft shops
The Büyük Han is now home to numerous craft shops and art galleries

Entrance of Selimiye Mosque
Formerly Church of Agia Sofia, built in 1209 and transformed into a mosque by the Ottomans in 1570

Comments

[Anastasia78]

Harlots in the mosque....
When I read this section of the blog my heart sank. I think you did the right thing to tell the German woman to cover up. You're really just trying to protect her. Why some Westerners choose to ignore this is beyond me and is really just pitiful. Really enjoyed this blog.

[Susurros somnolientos]

The poor caretaker...
Thanks for the comment, Anastasia! :) I guess Cyprus is a country that attracts a lot of holidaymakers who are not very aware of intercultural sensitivities. But it's really not all that difficult to be respectful on a very basic level, so people should be told when they're out of line. Cheers, Jens