Crossing the Green Line

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Amy may have been born more than 2 decades after the fall of the Berlin Wall but she got to experience some of the atmosphere from that time during our trip to north Cyprus.

The island of Cyprus is split in two along the so called Green Line which divides the Turkish controlled north from the republic in the south.

The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) may not be recognised by any country other than Turkey but it has existed in one form or another for more than 40 years. For many years the border was closed but over time it has become easier to cross and there are now 7 crossings between the two sides of the island.

We crossed at the quiet border crossing near Kato Pyrgos in the north west of the country. Close to the border, especially on the Turkish side, are barbed wire fences covering no mans land and signs warning you not to take pictures. Away from the border area north cyprus is well set up for tourism though there is definitely a more obvious Turkish influence and a visible army presence. Turkey itself is very close, visible in the distance to the north.

We passed quickly through border controls (thanks to Amy again!) and drove on to Kyrenia, located in a picturesque harbour on the north coast below the Kyrenia mountains. This was our base for 3 days as we explored the north. Just like in the south, the people here are mad about babies and Amy got a lot of attention from the friendly locals.

There is so much to see in this area, you could easily spend a week or two here. Highlights for us were the medieval castles of Buffavento and St. Hilarion, which lie in commanding positions on the Kyrenia mountains, and offer great views of the island. The mountains look well set up for hiking but on one trail, near the 5 fingered mountain, we were stopped by the army who were using the area for a training exercise. Not even Amy could swing that one for us!

We of course had some beach time and Amy tried dipping her toes in the mediterranean but it didn't go so well. In fairness, at the end of April the water is still only warming up!

We ended our visit to northern Cyprus at Nicosia, Europe's last divided capital and a throwback in some ways to what Berlin must have been like before the wall came down. The Green Line runs through the city, splitting streets in two and creating a no mans land on both sides, with watchtowers and UN guardposts adding a touch of (former) East German-style paranoia. Ironically though the northern side of the city is very laid-back and relaxed. We enjoyed wandering around and it felt a lot like walking the streets of a Turkish town, with minarets seemingly visible from every street corner.

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