Ireland to Czech Republic

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Arrived Cherbourg, went immediately in search of petrol down country lane, approached two guys on horseback going opposite direction. Got past first one, the second one kicked one more dent in the side of the beleaguered van - asked rider for reg of horse and insurance details, but didn't really care so let it go. Made it to small Champagne town, went to bar for a beer and left with a wine opener, a box of glasses and a bottle of '92 Bordeaux the owner blew the dust off and gifted us, explaining he had a drink problem and didn't want it anymore! Spent 2 days sampling and buying champagne - never knew there were over 5000 different brands of the stuff. Noticed broken piece of metal in suspension of van.

Drove to Germany, Rothenburg on "Romantic road" - spectacular walled town atop a cliff, then went in search of spare parts - wiper blades, window winder that had come off in my hand - both easily sourced. Walked into VW dealers with my van manual poining at a picture of broken 'anti-roll bar' part and was told it is no longer made. A worker in one dealer told me he had seen a house in a village nearby with loads of old VW vans outside. Found house fronted by said vans and showed the pictire of part to the owner, Tommy - he looked under van, cigarette in mouth and said he had loads of them. 3 hours, several cups of coffee, 10s of cigarettes, a few slices of my sister Deirdre's wedding cake, a botle of wine and 30 euro later, we had a whole new anti-roll bar under us and set off with confidence. 4 hours later we were camped on the forecourt of another VW dealership with a very sick engine. Next day we were into office to get engine checked and were told needed new engine for just 3.5 thousand euro. Forgot that, tried a few other places in town, rented a car and drove back to Tommy. 5 days, several drunken nights, lots of internet searches for a second hand petrol engine, a realisation that all are hoovered up by Africans for export and not too much money later, we left with a good diesel engine, a good gearbox and 2 new friends - Tommy and his wife Petra - who had put us up in their house albeit with Bla doing some cooking, me making the odd Irish Coffee and lending my vast inexperience to the engine swap process. Sounder people we could not have come across and the engine has worked noisily, slowly but reliably since. Keeping off motorways now as feel like a shetland pony in the grand national.

In Czech republic now, Spent time in Karlovy Vary - nice but boring, and in Ceske Krumlov now - beautiful and interesting where old ericsson buddy Cathal Kearney came to meet us yesterday from Prague.

So, making slow progress and wondering what is in store if so much can happen in the more predictable countries.....

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