Beautiful Wales

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Our last couple of days passed well in Llangollen and Richard and Jennie were pleased when they got back. We said goodbye to two sets of cottage guests, checked they were fine and greeted two more sets. I took a phone booking so everything we had been taught went well. I used up the egg surplus and made yellow courgette and feta frittata for their return. This was a special place and hopefully we might get asked back.

We set off on Sunday and drove the short distance to LLanuwchllyn, which is at the southern end of Bala Lake. Our bikes were in the shop there, so we stopped off to see how things were going, as the previous day he had rung to say we needed new forks before he could electrify them. Bala is quite touristy and was quite busy. The small campsite at LLanuwchllyn was so peaceful, only 5 pitches, lovely views and nice owners Roy and Joan. It was about 10 minutes down and 15 minutes back to the local pub, the Eagles. After our meal on Sunday we went down for a few drinks and a chat with the locals, the postman was a nice friendly guy who was off to see Guns and Roses but when he left this crazy guy came in. His conversation was like talking to a butterfly and I suspect he had a mental health problem.

Monday we walked the six miles to Bala along the road on the eastern side and when we arrived we spotted a sign for an eco-caffe only to find another of the areas characters. The owner looked startled to have customers but she managed to sort us out some lunch. Chris thinks I would be at home in Bala with all of the other recycling/eco-friendly types. We again checked on the bikes and there were problems with delivery of the new forks!! While we waited for the bus I found a fab beer shop they had hundreds of bottle and did a “bring a bottle” take-away service for both beer and wine. I got Chris some local unpasteurised Pilsner and he said it was delicious. The bus went to our village but as we couldn’t pronounce it we just asked for the pub!

Tuesday we walked away from the lake, through fields and woodland, for about 3 hours till we got to an exit onto the main road, we had a coffee and sandwiches on the bench of a garden/hardware shop. The bus service is only every 2 hours so we went further south to Dolgellau, a town we both love. As we got there we had the first rain of the trip, for about half an hour. There was time for a quick pint and a bit of shopping before the bus to LLanuwchllyn.

We rang the bike repair man, Mr Hughes, and things were progressing but he wasn’t sure they would be ready Wednesday morning ( we had booked and paid for a campsite near Fishguard). We hung around the campsite till 12 o’clock and then headed to Bala. By about 2.30 everything was sorted and we went to pick them up. We had a quick test and all seemed well and we expected a huge bill. The bikes had been in for a week, had been serviced, my tyre changed, Chris’ brake pads renewed and the electrification kits fitted, with new forks added. We though about £300 but it was £135!

We then had a long drive down to near Fishguard, I rang ahead and we knew which pitch it was. About 7.30pm Chris drove Henry down this very narrow lane, hoping no-one was coming the other way. The mist had been descending and we arrived and pitched up and although we knew we were on the cliff tops there was nothing to see!! The Fishguard fog horn blew all night.

Thursday and we awoke to see the view and it was fabulous. Our plans were to walk more sections of the Pembrokeshire coastal path and we did the section from the campsite to Goodrich, had a coffee and then walked into Fishguard. It is not a bad little place and I picked up the things we needed , which was mainly fresh fruit and veg and I found some Freekah in the whole food shop. In an attempt to reduce my cholesterol I have been more conscious about what I eat and we tried tempeh in Llangollen and Freekah is young green wheat seeds.

The local hopper buses stop on request so we got off at the end of our lane , just under a mile to the campsite. The walk had been shorter than we planned but the variety of wild flowers on the cliffs was stunning.

Friday we waited for the 10.15 bus to go to Newport Sands as we planned to walk back to the campsite (which is on the coastal path) by 10.30 we were thinking it was not coming when a local man came down the lane and offered us a lift to the estuary. He was called Pete and had moved to his house next to the campsite 20 years previously having surfed and travelled, a lovely man. As we walked towards Parrog we saw the hopper bus so either the timetable was wrong or he had a problem. We walked south in good walking weather, clear but not too hot. We walked round the fabulous Dinas head with a small island full of Guillemots and razorbills and were delighted to find a pub at the bottom of one of the inlets. The very expensive sandwiches and a pint seemed a good idea but sat heavy for the last stretch. The end of the journey was the campsite and a hot shower which was very welcome.

Saturday was rugby day, New Zealand v Wales and Australia v England and Chris had spotted a sign in a Fishguard pub saying they were opening at 8am for the 8.30 kick-off. About 7.45 I set off down the lane for the bus, due about 8.15. Just after 8 a bus came down the hill and I stuck out my hand and he stopped. He wasn’t our local hopper he was the Strumble Stroller enroute from the depot to St David’s. He took me to Fishguard anyway and didn’t charge. I walked to the pub and it was closed and no sign of life so wandered around the town for a bit and went back at about 25 past and still no sign of life. A white van turned up and two blokes got out, also wanting to see the game. They suggested the Ship in Lower Fishguard so off I went with Rob and Giles in the van down to the Ship and we arrived 30 seconds into the game to a welcome cup of tea. Wales played brilliantly but lost to a very nervy All Black who turned on the style for the last quarter of the game, which is when they are at their most dangerous. I waited till half time in the first game before I had a beer (9.15). There was a half hour gap and most of the Welsh fans left. England got off to a terrible start but eventually turned it around to win, one down and one to go to win the series. Later in the day the Irish beat the Springboks to compound Wales’ misery. I yomped up the hill into Fishguard and had a bit of lunch and got the 2pm bus back.

Sunday was our first miserable day, it rained heavily all night and our original plan of walking was changed. Those of you thinking we are fair weather walkers would be right, retirement brings time to pick and choose what you do and when you do it. I have a whole load of rainy day stuff waiting to be done. Instead we got the bus to Cardigan and had a bit of culture visiting the castle and then had a delicious traditional Sunday lunch.

Monday we left Fishguard and drove south to Haverfordwest to stock up on supplies and then we drove to Dale a small village on the estuary that goes up towards Milford Haven and the oil refineries. The view one way was stunning the view the other industrial but beautiful at night. Our pitch on a little site looked directly on the water. We ate and then wandered down to the village below to check out the local pub. The pub was very foodie and expensive fish and chips about £20 and the beer was £4 a pint and only okay.

Tuesday Chris had arranged to go fishing but got a call to say that it would be better the next day so we wandered down to Dale had a cuppa and then did another couple of hours on the coastal path ending up at St Ann’s head. There was then a 2 mile uninteresting walk back to Dale along the road so we thought we would check out the yacht club. They had delicious local beer, Daft Bass, and tasty sandwiches.

Wednesday was fishing and Chris caught three mackerel which were cooked on the BBQ and they were delicious. He also caught Pollock but they were too small to keep and were thrown back. We sat and ate them in the evening sun with our gorgeous views.

Thursday we had arranged to try Stand Up Paddleboarding SUP at Saundersfoot about 90 minutes away near Tenby. We eventually found a place to park and walked along to Copton Hall beach to meet Alan and Katherine who ran the taster sessions. They provided wetsuits and the boards and buoyancy aids and we set off down the beach. It was sunny and only a little breezy and the small inlet was quite calm. We had our initial instruction and set off on the boards into the water in a kneeling position. It was easy to paddle and control the board , although Chris was holding it like a canoe paddle! Once we got the hang of this the next step is to try and stand up, Alan made it look so easy but trust me it is not!! It requires you to be confident enough to look forward and be flexibe enough to push yourself up into a standing position. If neither of those things happen then you topple over into the water SPLASH! The water was 16 degrees so only a little chilly but then the next problem is getting back on the board, not easy either. I did manage to get nearly upright and Chris had numerous attempts and spent a lot of time in the water. It was great fun and is something I would try again but need to do something about my stiff old body!! We are both reasonably fit for walking and cycling but SUP requires something else.

Afterwards we sat and ate fish and chips in the harbour and then set off along the coast to find a wild camping spot for the night. A side street in Pendine , just off the beach fitted the bill and we walked onto the beach and had a cuppa looking out onto the sand. Pendine was used for land speed record attempts and had a massive military firing range. The whole of the town was full of Parkdean static caravans, hundreds and hundreds of them.

Friday we set off for a return to England after a fabulous few weeks in Wales. First a three night stop near Devizes and then our second house sit in Trowbridge.

But more of that next time

Take care

Norma xx

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