Wales, the Next Leg of My Journey - July 29 - August 19, 2022

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INTRODUCTION:

Wales is often called a big little country. It is 160 miles from north to south and 50 miles from east to west. Wales is a country within the United Kingdom. It has its own language and its own flag. The Welsh language is spoken by about a quarter of the population with most speaking English. All signposts show both languages, Welsh first. Wales shares the same head of state and central government as England, Scotland and Northern Ireland. Wales also uses the same money.

In medieval times Wales was an independent nation, but lacked a government and ruler. It was slowly annexed by England in many wars & battles. Although the Welsh retained their strong sense of national identity by the middle of the 16th century they were part of England. In 1997, Prime Minister Tony Blair legislated semiautonomous rule.

Wales is a country of outstanding natural beauty with varied landscapes. It is famous for its castles, mountains, valleys, coastline and culture. The Welsh dragon is a heraldic symbol & appears on the Welsh flag. The red dragon (Y Ddraig Goch) has been used as an emblem since around 655 AD. It wasn't until 1959 that it was officially recognized as the national flag of Wales.

South Wales includes Cardiff, the capital city. There are the green hills of the Brecon Beacons park and the beaches of Pembrokeshire. South Wales is the most varied with old villages and historical sights.

Mid-Wales is the quietest part of Wales with scenic countryside, hills, mountains, and a resort town. This area is almost entirely rural. Its largest town has a population under 20,000.

North Wales contains the most famous castles, the best is Caernarfon Castle dominating the Menai Strait. Conwy is also popular. Snowdonia Park is a major draw. North Wales is a mixture of mountains, popular sandy beaches and coastline hideaways.

The native language is Cymraeg (kum-ray-ig) or Welsh. Today children under 17 are required to take classes learning the language. It is said that it is fairly easy to learn the phonetic language after learning the alphabet.

Friday, July 29 - Day 38

I was to travel from Gloucester to Cardiff (Caerdydd) in Cardiff County by train however when I arrived at the train station I discovered there was a bus replacement. The bus went as far as Severn Tunnel Junction where I transferred to a train for a short ride to Cardiff. I arrived about 1:20 pm. Judging by emails received, my friend D. was to arrive around 2 pm so I decided to wait. She had flown into London and was transferring to Cardiff by train. However the London train was late. I was getting tired of waiting when she finally appeared. We couldn't check in to our accommodations yet so we walked halfway stopping for lunch at an outdoor restaurant. My phone GPS led us to the address but we couldn't determine which building was correct. There was a barber shop a couple of doors down the block so I asked the fellow inside. He pointed out a metal gate as if he had done so many times before. Instructions on how to enter had been emailed earlier in the day. First there was a code to open the tall gate, once inside the same code opened a door to enter the building. A lift took us to the reserved apartment on the 2nd floor. Another code unlocked the apartment door. The Brickworks Apartment was a good size but held a double bed. I looked at D. in surprise since she had booked the apartment. She said there was a sofa bed and insisted that was where she would sleep. There was a beautiful bathroom with a walk-in shower. I was happy to see a washing machine. After shopping for a few groceries I did a load of laundry.

Saturday, July 30 - Day 39

After a late start we walked to the nearby Cardiff Castle. The weather was misty threatening rain but the day was warm. We took advantage of a guide to tour the private rooms, very Victorian and colourful with incredible fireplaces, ceilings and ornamentation. The guide used a lot of irony and a little sarcasm as he took us around. In some cases, I was not sure it was appropriate although I acknowledge some went over my head. There was talk of English culture vs. Welsh culture. As in Ireland the Welsh (and the Scottish) have residual resentment toward the British government. Overall it was enjoyable and enlightening even though there were a lot of stairs in towers! hahaha After the tour was over we climbed up to the motte-and-bailey Keep. This entailed climbing narrow spiralling stairs to the top. I decided I would be bringing a hiking pole with me going forward.

The castle started as a Roman fort probably at the end of the 50s AD. The nearby settlement was called Caer-Taff meaning fort on the Taff (River). The Keep was built within the Roman ruins in the 12th century. During the following 700 years the castle passed through many powerful families. In the 15th century, the Beauchamp family added the Octagon Tower and the Great Hall ceiling. In 1776 the Earl of Bute, John Stuart acquired it. The castle stayed in the Bute family until 1947 when it was given in trust to the city of Cardiff. The Bute family was responsible for turning Cardiff into the world's greatest coal exporting port. They became extremely rich.

After spending a couple of hours at the castle, we spent time in Bute Park surrounding the castle and in the Sophia Gardens. Over 16,600 steps.

Sunday, July 31 - Day 40

This morning we woke up to pouring rain that turned into sprinkling rain by the time we left the apartment. A 20-minute train ride took us on a day trip to Caerphilly Castle (pronounced kah-filly). My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. Since they didn't have guides working or an audio guide, we were given a free glossy guidebook. The castle looked like a fairy-tale movie set rather than an ancient building. This is probably why it is often used in movies. It is a 13th century fortress and the largest castle in Wales. It was one of the earliest castles to use lakes, bridges and fortifications for defence. To reach the inner court, there were 3 drawbridges, 6 portcullises and 5 sets of double gates. (A portcullis is the gate with a latticed grille that slides down grooves in each jamb of the gateway.) In the 14th century it was remodelled as a residence and the Great Hall changed into an entertaining area. The Great Hall was and still is regarded as one of the largest non-royal great halls ever built in England & Wales. The wealthy Bute family restored the castle from the 19th century onward. Restoration work in the Great Depression provided a lot of jobs for local people. Work continued until after 1950 when the castle was gifted to the state.

After lunch we decided to walk around the outside of the castle looking at the ducks, Canada Geese, swans, pigeons, swallows, crows and seagulls. it must be a good feeding ground attracting so many birds. There were a couple of fishermen out as well. The Outer East Moat, the North Lake and the South Lake surround the castle. After many hours we took the train back to Cardiff. About 15,000 steps.

Monday, August 1 - Day 41

We walked to the National Museum of Scotland only to find it was closed. Many museums are closed on Monday, a fact we forgot. However a couple of staff were near the door because other staff were setting up for a big opening of a new exhibit. They recommended the St. Fagan's Museum of History. They called a taxi for us saying it was a short, inexpensive trip. This was not the case due to traffic. It took about 1/2 hour and cost £15. Walking into the museum visitor centre, we were greeted by an employee who provided all kinds of information including bus details for the trip back to Cardiff. St. Fagan's is a free open air museum set in the grounds of St Fagan's Castle. Since 1948 it has re-erected over 50 buildings from different periods of Welsh history. We spent at least 5 hours walking around the grounds. It was a beautiful day with lots of sunshine. There were dozens of people but it was not overcrowded.

The bus trip back was a good 1/2-hour long to the city centre arriving around 5:30. About 13,600 steps for the day.

Tuesday, August 2 - Day 42

Woke up to another rainy morning. It had stopped by the time we were ready to leave so overnight rain is fine with me. We walked to the train station to catch the train to Lamphey, Pembrokeshire, approximately 2 hours away. We were unable to find accommodations in Pembroke but Lamphey was close. The tiny unmanned train station was near the OYO Lamphey Hall Hotel. After a late lunch at the hotel, we were able to check in to the good-sized room. The basin had been installed outside of the bathroom. Once settled, we went for a walk discovering the ruins of the medieval Lamphey Bishop's Palace. The Welsh name is Llys yr Esgob Llandyfai. It was originally built in the 14th century with more than 20 rooms primarily used by high-ranking clergy. At one time fishponds, orchards and gardens surrounded the palace. Now it was surrounded by farmland. It was a pleasant walk down a country road beside a large field of sheep. There was little else around the village. At 6:30 we tried to find a restaurant - the 1st was closed the 2nd was full so we ended up back at the hotel restaurant.

Wednesday, August 3 - Day 43

Breakfast was included with our hotel room. After eating we caught the bus for Pembroke (Welsh: Penfro), about a 15-minute trip. The town of Pembroke grew wealthy due to sea trade under the powerful Earls of Pembroke. The best known was William Marshall reputed to be the greatest knight even today. As a young man, William Marshall made his living as a tournament knight. His story was the inspiration for the movie "A Knight's Tale". He served 5 English Kings gaining a formidable reputation. In the 16th century Civil Wars the town suffered due to Cromwell and his forces. After the Siege of Pembroke in 1648, the Castle (Castell Penfro) and the Town Walls were partially destroyed and the Royalist town Mayor was executed. In the 18th century the town gained popularity once more as a port.

We arrived at the castle in time for a free tour that lasted about 1 1/2 hours. The spectacular Norman castle was never conquered, only surrendering once. It is surrounded on 3 sides by water, the Pembroke River. William Marshall transformed the earth-and-timber castle into stone starting in 1189. This took over 30 years. It became the home of the Earls of Pembroke for 300 years. Most of the buildings seen today date from the 13th century. The castle has one of the few remaining authentic medieval gaols. The Keep was originally 5 stories with a domed roof. It was meant to be the last place of refuge for soldiers defending the castle. The gatehouse has a complex Barbican with 3 portcullis gates. Underneath the castle is a vast cavern called The Wogan. Prehistoric occupants had used it for 12,000 years before eventually being fortified by the Normans. The Castle became famous as the 1457 birthplace of Henry Tudor, later Henry VII. His mother Margaret Beaufort became powerful in her own right. The Phillips family bought the castle in 1928 for £3,000. They still own it and have partially restored it. The castle has been used for movies and tv.

After visiting the castle, we walked around the perimeter for the views and photo opps. We tried to follow a town walk guide but many of the buildings have changed making it difficult.

Thursday, August 4 - Day 44

An early train took us halfway to our destination of Fishguard, Pembrokeshire. There was an hour wait for the connection. When designing this journey, the Fishguard location was chosen to be a halfway break across Wales. Once we arrived at the Fishguard-Goodwick station, the GPS said the Ivybridge Guest House was not far. What it did not say was that the walk was uphill all the way! Upon our arrival we were told the room wasn't ready. The restaurant at the train station was recommended for lunch. Stricken I thought, walk all the way back! However, the owner pointed out a nearby public pathway that was shorter, wooded and shady. After lunch, we walked along the harbour then took the pathway back to the guesthouse. Our room was smallish while the bathroom was large with a shower/tub. It was a long day so it was also an early night. Over 15,000 steps.

Friday, August 5 - Day 45

We have discovered that away from the larger cities of Wales, a car would have been a good idea. We wanted to do a hike today but there wasn't any public transportation to any of the trailheads. The guesthouse owner offered to give us a ride to the town of Goodwick so we could walk the coastal path from Goodwick to Fishguard. After a somewhat harrowing ride we were dropped off in the town centre. The owner said he had lived in the area for 7 years however he didn't seem to know the answers to our questions about the area. It turned out Goodwick wasn't far away and we could have walked it. Anyway, there was a T.I. (Tourist Information) that advised us of the best place to start the coastal path. She was surprised we didn't have a car. (I sighed) We had to climb another steep hill to reach the path but once there it was an enjoyable walk. It was a sunny day without any wind. There were quite a few other people along various parts of the path, most with dogs. The trail was only about 2 miles but we took our time sometimes sitting on benches overlooking the water. Just over 17,000 steps for the day.

Saturday, August 6 - Day 46

Due to train strikes, we knew we were in for a long travel day. An early train took us to Carmarthen in about an hour. Our connection was a 2-hour bus trip to Aberystwyth. The bus arrived very late then ran into traffic so we missed our train connection. The next train was in 2 hours. Checking the bus schedule, the timing was the same so we decided on the train. The train to Machynlleth was literally filled with large numbers of loud, drunk people, male & female. I asked a sober woman where they were coming from, she shrugged and said it was likely just a day at the beach. A few were singing so it was somewhat entertaining and they didn't try to bother us. Since we caught a later train, we missed the bus to Porthmadog, Gwynedd (pronounced gwi-neth). Luckily a station employee helped research transport and discovered there was another train arriving shortly. We reached Porthmadog about 7pm. The only accommodation we were able to book earlier was a Travelodge. Happily, it wasn't far from the train station. When we went into the room we discovered it was set up as a double. The hotel staff said they would rearrange the beds while we were out for dinner. Unable to find an available restaurant we ended up have a drink at a pub then buying some cheese, fruit and rice cakes.

Sunday, August 7 - Day 47

I chose this town as part of my journey specifically for the Ffestiniog steam rail train route to Portmerion, an Italianate village. Upon arrival in Porthmadog I discovered this route was not available any longer. The train now only went about halfway. We decided to buy tickets anyway since part of the plan was to view some of Snowdonia National Park.

After breakfast in the town centre, we caught the 10:30 am steam train to travel into Snowdonia Park turning around at Blaenau Ffestiniog. It is the world's oldest narrow gauge railway climbing over 213 m (700 ft) from sea level to the town. Each way was about 45 minutes with a 35-minute stop in the slate-mining town. The town itself didn't have much to see or at least we didn't have enough time to see very much. I noticed most of the people from the train went to get coffee and food. The views going up and down the rail were fantastic. We did see Mt. Snowdon in the distance. Upon our return we stopped for lunch then did some hiking along the "Cob" and Glaslyn Estuary. These were walks along the marshes, very pretty and occupied by a lot of birds.

Monday, August 8 - Day 48

I had hoped to take the Welsh Highland Railway from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, Gwynedd. Unfortunately Sunday night I couldn't book tickets on-line and the station was closed. We couldn't even find out the time the train was running. Rather than take a chance on available seats, I found a bus to catch. The trip was short with wonderful views - dry stone walls, mountains, pastures with sheep and/or cattle, lots of green trees and a few houses spotting the landscape. We arrived at the Premier Inn early but were able to get into our room that had a single bed and a double bed. We had to book the Inn after discovering nothing else was available in our price range. It was actually a little more expensive than desired. It seems a lot of Brits have decided to vacation within their own country rather than overseas causing accommodations to fill quickly.

After settling in and a light lunch, we went to the Caernarfon Castle (pronounced kah-nar-vin). My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. A huge castle, part of it was under scaffolding and not accessible. Guides were not available so we were given a free glossy guidebook. This castle was the birthplace of Edward II who became the first Prince of Wales. It was intended to be the official residence in North Wales. A 13th century masterpiece, considered the most expensive fortress built by a King of England as well as the most complete and impressive moated castles. Edward I wanted it to be the strongest link in his Iron Ring of Welsh castles. Reconstruction took place in the 19th century. We spent time exploring the castle, climbing towers and walking on the walls where possible.

After the castle visit we sat by the estuary for a break then walked around the town. There were a number of historic buildings. The Black Boy Inn is one of the oldest inns in Wales. "Black Boy" generally refers to King Charles II. His mother gave him the nickname due to his darker skin and eyes. Caernarfon is very much a tourist town with lots of eating and coffee establishments. It is also a pretty town dominated by the castle. Of course, we didn't wander far outside the town centre.

Tuesday, August 9 - Day 49

This morning we took a bus to the picturesque town of Beddgelert (pronounced Beth-ga-let) not far from Caernarfon in the Snowdonia area. We walked a long public pathway along the river. The day was hot and sunny. I should have brought my hat but it worked out. The town lived up to its reputation. We heard about the legend of Gelert, a dog, so sought out the grave only to later discover it was an unlikely story. It was probably a story promoted by a savvy businessman. The village name was probably Beddcelert referring to the grave of an Irish saint or early Celtic warrior. The legend is something that probably draws tourists to the town and helps the economy. We couldn't find an early dinner in town so took the bus back to Caernarfon and ate there. Over 16,000 steps.

Wednesday, August 10 - Day 50

A short 30-minute bus took us from Caernarfon to Bangor, Gwynedd. Accommodations for Beaumaris were not available in our price range so we decided to stay in Bangor at The Management Centre. this was a hotel that also held conferences and meetings. Years ago the Beatles stayed here on their way to India. We took a taxi to the hotel because it was at the top of a steep hill. We were early so stored our luggage then left to find lunch. According to the phone GPS we had to walk down a steep hill, most of it had stairs. It was a warm day and the surroundings were pleasant. We tried going to the St. Deniniol’s Cathedral but it was closed. The Welsh name is Cadeirlan Deiniol Sant ym Mangor. We wandered down to the Garth pier. It is 1500 ft long, the 2^nd longest in Wales. We sat there for a while then walked back. As mentioned, the city is very hilly with some steep inclines and declines, not always enjoyable. Our room is large enough for a 2-seater couch and a decent bathroom. The building is listed (historic) so to get to the room, we traveled up some stairs, down others, around corridors, etc. The reception people were very friendly and helpful. About 15,100 steps.

Thursday, August 11 - Day 51

The 10:00 am bus was to take us to Beaumaris on the island of Anglesey. However, we mistakenly got off at the wrong stop and had to wait for another bus. The next bus took a scenic route making it a noon arrival. The building of the Beaumaris Castle (Welsh: Castell Blwmares, Ynys Môn) began in 1295 with a workforce of 2,000 - 2,500 men. Edward I built it as the ultimate concentric castle (a line of defence walls inside a line of defence walls). If attackers breached the outer walls they would find themselves in a dangerous space due to all the arrow-slits on the inner wall. Access to the castle was through the South Gatehouse. It had 15 lines of defence including a drawbridge & several portcullises. The castle was never fully completed likely due to lack of funds, it had already cost £15,000. Also, Edward I started to focus on battling the Scots. The only action it saw was in the 17th century Civil War. Some call it the greatest castle never built. Today the castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 20th century, restoration began.

Hours passed exploring the castle and walking the walls. After lunch we visited the Beaumaris Gaol (Welsh: Carchar Biwmares) now a museum. A guide gave an introductory lecture about the history, told with some humour. Although it has a reputation for ghosts, I didn't notice any. The gaol was used primarily during the 1800s. In 1862 Richard Rowlands was executed for the murder of this father-in-law. According to local tradition he put a curse on the clock in the church tower opposite the scaffold. It has never kept the right time since then. The Gaol closed in 1878. After leaving the gaol, we walked down the pier and booked tickets on a Puffin Island Cruise for tomorrow. About 10,000 steps.

Friday, August 12 - Day 52

We caught the bus back to Beaumaris then walked to the pier to join the boat cruise. The cruise around Puffin Island lasted about 2 hours. It was late in the season so we didn't see many birds or seals. Since it became a hot, sunny day being on the water was refreshing. Yesterday and today we noticed parents & kids lined up all along the rails on both sides of the pier. They had buckets and were lowering a hook into the water. It wasn't fishing then we discovered they were catching small crabs. Some people had full buckets. I asked a kid if I could take his picture with a crab and he was pleased to pose.

After lunch (not crab) an exploration of the area led to the St. Mary's and St. Nicholas' Church. (Welsh: Eglwys Sant Mair a Sant Nicholas) The church was first built in 1330, soon after the castle. Mary is the mother of Jesus and Nicholas is the patron saint of seafarers. At that time Beaumaris was an important port. Inside the church was a mysterious plain stone coffin. On the lid is a carving of a woman. It is said to be Princess Joan (Siwan in Welsh), daughter of King John and wife of Llywelyn the Great. Joan died in 1237, around 45 years old. Others believe the carving comes later in the 13th century so it could be Eleanor de Montfort, wife of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. Eleanor died in childbirth in 1282. There is also an alabaster tomb of William Bulkely and Elin his wife. They are the first members of the Bulkely family to be connected with Beaumaris. People used to think alabaster would cure a toothache so any alabaster tombs were often damaged. This tomb has graffiti and names carved on it including the name of Richard Bulkeley, 1560, probably a great-great-grandson.

The church minister and his wife were very friendly and eager to answer questions. It almost seemed like they were starved for company. Giving a donation to these small churches hopefully helps with upkeep. Of course, it makes me feel I have contributed to something worthwhile.

Saturday, August 13 - Day 53

We caught a late morning bus for the 1-hour ride to Llandudno (pronounced lan-did-no) in Conwy County. Once again we couldn't get accommodations where we wanted. In this case it was Conwy so we were staying nearby at the Llandudno Marine Hotel. Our arrival at 12:30 was too early for check-in. After storing our luggage at the hotel we left to look for lunch and to get oriented.

A walk along the Promenade on a Saturday afternoon was difficult due to the crowds. We discovered we were in a seaside resort town with a hotel next to the Irish Sea. At a stop at the T.I. we were told of a tram, the Great Orme Tramway that travels up to the Great Orme (mountain) summit. We walked to Victoria Station to try out the recommendation. Aboard one of the restored tramcars I noticed it was almost full. A family with two young boys appeared. The parents sat their 6-7 year old boy beside D. and sat their 4-5 year old boy beside me. He said to me "I'm not scared" then promptly held out his hand. I felt obligated to reciprocate. His mother gasped, looking surprised. I smiled and said it was ok. Since he was nervous I tried to keep up a conversation by talking of sights out the window. He kept his little sweaty hand clamped onto mine until the tram stopped and his parents said it was time to go. He leapt down without a backward glance! hahaha We all clamoured along to board a second tram to reach the summit. On the 2nd tram, the boy was with his dad. I heard his dad say a little sarcastically, "do you need to hold my hand?" The boy calmly replied "no".

At the summit we wandered around taking in the views of the town, the countryside and the Irish Sea. Soon it was enough and time to go. We were able to check-in, organize our stuff then go off for dinner. It was nice to have choices other than pizza/pasta/burgers.

Sunday, August 14 - Day 54

An early bus took us to Conwy (pronounced con-way). First stop was the Conwy Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. Building began in 1283 with both the castle and town walls completed in 1287. A very quick build. The castle and town walls cost Edward I £15,000 which is about £45 million today. Called Caernarfon's smaller sister this castle was also part of Edward I's Iron Ring in Wales. In 1294 the castle was besieged by Madog ap Llywelyn during a Welsh rebellion. In the 14th century it became a refuge for Richard II from the army of Henry Bolingbroke who took the throne as Henry IV. Richard II was double-crossed and handed over to Bolingbroke. It was the end of Richard's freedom and reign as king. Although he was promised protection, Richard died in captivity in 1400 of starvation. In 1401, Owain Glyndwr's supporters captured the castle, holding it for 3 months. Two cousins sneaked in as carpenters and killed the guard providing the means for occupation.

The fortress is very well preserved. It contains the most intact set of medieval royal apartments in Wales. The town's pedestrian only suspension bridge was designed by Thomas Telford with supporting towers to match the crenulated turrets of the castle. Near the entrance I came upon the delightful wooden statue called "The Guard" appearing as a bored onlooker. It is made of 30 pieces of oak jointed and pegged. With 8 towers there were a lot of stairs to climb but I brought my hiking pole that helped tremendously.

The wall walk looked interesting so this was our next endeavour. The sun was beating down and I felt like a sweat ball. We had a hard time finding the entrance to the 2nd part of the wall. I finally discovered the partially hidden stairs. As we were walking along, I saw two different sets of people looking for it so I called instructions down from the top of the wall. We later saw two of the men who made a funny comment about it. The entire wall walk lasted just over an hour. We treated ourselves to a milkshake then went on to visit Plas Mawr. This is a manor house built by a wealthy merchant in stages between 1576 and 1585. My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. The audio guide was excellent with different actors portraying different characters. It was a huge Elizabethan house in its time, very well preserved. There was detailed ornamental plasterwork along with heraldic emblems associated with the family.

We walked around looking at different medieval buildings. We walked past the "Britain's smallest house" but did not get into the long line to see inside. I know it was a fisherman's cottage. The last occupant was 6'3" tall while the house measures 10' by 4'2". Not for someone with a lot of belongings. We switched gears completing the Marine walk, next to the water with lots of shade and nice views.

We bussed back to Llandudno and the hotel. We had booked dinner at the hotel. Before eating I walked down to the water's edge to dip my toes into the Irish Sea. It wasn't an easy walk over the beach consisting of rather large stones. At dinner I discovered it was D.'s birthday so I bought a bottle of wine. 15,617 steps.

Monday, August 15 - Day 55

Caught a bus this morning to the Bodnant Garden, about 40 minutes. (Welsh: Gardd Bodnant) There were many beautiful flowers in bloom including hundreds of hydrangea bushes. There were over 8 miles of paths through woods, bushes, meadows, water gardens and flowers - 80 acres. If I had to be locked down again, this is where I would want to be. We spent the majority of the day here walking the paths. The day started with gloomy clouds and a little rain but it turned into a good day - not too hot. The skies seem to change very quickly in Britain. The garden was founded in 1874. It was developed by 5 generations of one family (Lloyd and Forbes) then given to the National Trust in 1949. However, Bodnant Hall is still private. The public can still access the terraces and yard around the Hall. The property overlooks the Conwy Valley and the Carneddau mountains. Over 15,000 steps

Tuesday, August 16 - Day 56

The next couple of days were part of the transition of traveling from Wales to Scotland. I was going through Shrewsbury to Birmingham where I would catch a flight to Edinburgh. Although both cities are part of England the timing of the visits flow better in this section of my journey blog. D was traveling to the Isle of Man then would go on to Edinburgh, meeting me there.

It required two trains to travel from Conwy to Shrewsbury (pronounced shroos-bree) in Shropshire. The 2nd train was very crowded until reaching Chester. The trains of Britain, on the whole are very convenient. With the exception of small communities, travellers have a choice of multiple time schedules and prices. Many people travel on them from town to town for their work, for school, to visit family members, for weekend vacations, etc.

The day started cool & gloomy but cleared up by the time I reached Shrewsbury. Since it was another hilly town I took a taxi to the Prince Rupert Hotel. My room was at the end of a long hallway. It was a good size but rather dark. The bathroom was almost the same size and bright. After dropping off my suitcase, I went out to see the town centre and its medieval streets. Shrewsbury sits inside a loop in the Severn River and is the birthplace of Charles Dickens. For those who read the Father Cadfael books, this was where he lived as a monk at the monastery and abbey. A few years ago on a tour, I met a man from this city. He loved living here. Between his opinion and the Cadfael series, it was a place I wanted to visit.

I first came across St. Mary's Church. It is the most complete medieval church in Shrewsbury. It has one of the tallest spires in England. The church dates from Saxon times with additions from the 12th century onward. The ceiling collapsed in a huge storm in 1894 when the top of the spire was blown off. Both had to be rebuilt. From St. Mary's I walked to the Shrewsbury Abbey. The abbey is all that remains of a large Benedictine monastery from the 11th century. The abbey church lost its spire and two wings when the monastery was dissolved in 1540. Further damage occurred in 1826 when a road was placed through the grounds. These were both cursory visits as I intended to come back again. Back in the Square I stopped at the T.I. then visited the Market Hall. After dinner, some rain showers did appear.

Wednesday, August 17 - Day 57

This morning the weather was cool and misty. A 1/2-hour spent on the train took me on a day trip to Ludlow to visit the castle. My GPS routed me through an old cemetery then along a forest track. After walking for a time it started to softly rain. I saw a woman walking her dog who confirmed I was following the correct path. Shortly after I arrived at my destination the rain stopped.

The castle was built on top of a cliff in the 11th century as a border stronghold only 20 years after the Norman Conquest. The castle was enlarged in the 14th century. It was later involved in the Wars of the Roses as the home of Richard, Duke of York. In 1501 Prince Arthur (older brother of Henry VIII) and heir to the throne married Catherine of Aragon at St. Paul's Cathedral in a lavish ceremony. Arthur brought Catherine to Ludlow Castle to live but he died six months later. After Catherine married Henry VIII their daughter Mary spent 3 years at this castle. In 1811 the 2nd Earl of Powis purchased the ruins. It remains privately owned and maintained by the family. It is considered one of the ten best places to visit in the county.

On the way back to Shropshire I discovered my train to Birmingham was cancelled due to train strikes. The station employee said I could use the ticket today or in a couple of days. My flight was booked for Friday so delaying the train trip was not an option. I went back to the hotel & told them I had to check out early. Since it was after 2 pm they had to charge me for the night. I called the Birmingham easyHotel and arranged an additional room for tonight. I packed quickly, looked around and left. I later realized I didn't check the bathroom and left behind underwear and socks that I had washed. I could have arranged to take a taxi to go to Birmingham but was told they needed notice because the fleet was small. It was an expensive decision regardless. I was disheartened I had to leave Shrewsbury early. Birmingham was supposed to be an overnight stop only since it had the closest airport.

The train ride was only about 1 hour. When I arrived at easyHotel it was time for dinner. The room itself consisted of a bed, a bathroom & a tv. No tables, no windows, no closets, no kettle & supplies, very bare bones. About 10,000 steps.

Thursday, August 18 - Day 58

Since I did not plan to spend much time in Birmingham, I had not researched any sights to visit. In the morning I decided to take a bus to the Birmingham Botanical Gardens. The bus driver was very helpful and made sure I got off at the right stop. The gardens were a disappointment. There were very few flowers, primarily bushes and trees. I still spent time walking around the paths and using the time to assauge any anxiety. Gardens and woods are always calming. Finding the stop to return to the hotel area was a little challenging as it was in a different area due to one-way streets and mini roundabouts. The city recently held a world sporting event, (I have forgotten which one) so it was "spruced up". There were lots of fresh flowers all over as well as art installations. I was under the impression it was a very blue collar city and rather dingy so I was pleasantly surprised. After lunch I spent the afternoon in the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery and the nearby shopping centre.

Friday, August 19 - Day 59

Up at 4:15 am to catch a 5:45 am taxi to the airport. This cost £25! I was uncomfortable walking to the train station in the dark in this neighbourhood plus research didn't find a timely train. While waiting for the taxi there were a handful homeless men staggering around as if drunk or high.

The airport was complete chaos. I don't know why the airline was advising people to be there early because everyone had to wait to see which zone was assigned for flight check-in. They didn't post the zone until an hour before the flight. I was standing in a very long line seemingly in the zone posted. It wasn't clear which desk was the correct one. I began talking to other confused people. One woman on the same Edinburgh flight had a teenage daughter traveling with her. The daughter volunteered to run to the front of the line to investigate. She came back saying we had to get into a different line. I tapped a man on the shoulder & told him to follow me since he was also on the same flight. We all happily moved to a much shorter line. Once checked in, there was security. For the first time ever, I had to remove my iPad from its case. Once through security I had to wait to find out the gate. The gate was not posted until boarding time. Everyone started clamouring to get in line for boarding - there wasn't any organization at all. I literally was in the very back seat of the plane. My seat was against the back wall. The flight was full. It was one of those inexpensive airlines so this wasn't surprising. Luckily the flight was short. I thought it would take a long time to deplane but both the front door and rear door were opened. My suitcase was in the first batch in the claiming area! That has never happened to me on any of my many flights.

This is the end of my journey through Wales. The next chapter will be Scotland.

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Photos

Covid ad from Wales
I like this

Cartoon about Welsh town & city names
made me chuckle

Cardiff Castle
Began as a Roman fort

Cardiff Castle
The North Gate

Caerphilly Castle
day trip from Cardiff

St Fagan's National Museum of History
Gorse Mill

Pembroke Castle
Barbican tower

Pembroke Castle
used for some movies & tv shows

Fishguard public path
Shortcut from guesthouse

Porthmadog Cob
a walk along the marshes

Caernarfon Castle
tourist who overstayed! hahaha

Caernarfon Black Boy Inn
Black boy is a nickname of Charles II; one of the oldest inns in Wales

Beddgelert ruin
along the walk

Bangor
view from pier

Beaumaris, Anglesey
built about 1400

Llandudno hotel view
overlooking the Irish Sea

Llandudno tram
almost to summit of the Great Orme headland

Conwy Castle guard
made of 30 pieces of oak without nails

Conwy Plas Mawr
Conwy pronounced Conway

Bodnant Garden
given to the National Trust in 1949

Shrewsbury, Shropshire
Severn River

Shrewsbury United Church
the blue door caught my eye

Ludlow cemetery
path to castle

Cardiff Castle
The Keep