Ymrodio Cymru (walk about Wales)

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Oi! What a gorgeous weekend! Away from the city and into some breathing space! We could not have asked for better weather as if we had custom ordered it. I am speechless. It has taken us this long to get our tongues back and get this thing written after being surrounded by such natural beauty. Even our bed-and-breakfast style hotel, Ty Gwyn ("The White House"), was wonderful--soft cushy bed in a large room (even en suite), and delicious food served in a cozy dining room. And homemade vanilla bean ice cream (I know hand-churned when I taste it!) Our only regret was that we did not stay longer in Betws-y-Coed.

Getting to Betws-y-Coed (pronounced Bettus-e-Coy), near Snowdonia, was a different matter: only part of the train pulled into the Reading station, and we had to wait 15 minutes for the rest of it to show up. So we missed the last train in to Betws-y-Coed, and ended up taking the scenic route via the bus.

Betws-y-Coed is a small village of about 1,000 people, with a disproportionate amount of outdoor gear shops! Hiking shoes and boots in every colour and style, as well as gear for all of your kayaking-cycling-rock climbing-walking-camping needs. Everyone walks somewhere here. And who could blame them? I could feel the knots in my neck relax as soon as I got a few lungfuls of clean mountain air. A brisk walk evening walk prepared us for a sumptuous meal at the hotel--Jason enjoyed sea bass. (The choices for fish here are astounding--We were 19 miles from the coast). We rested up in anticpation of enjoying some more of the magical beauty of this village.

Before tucking in a typical British breakfast ---beans and toast, grilled tom"ah"tos and mushrooms, scrambled eggs, and sausages (the sausages were just for Jason), and washing it all down with a big pot of tea---we decided to see if the Fairy Glen (Ffos Noddun or "magical chasm") might reveal itself to us. And it did reveal itself, in the early morning mist and light, as a truly magical place. (I kept aiming my camera at secret spots hoping for a glimpse of a fairy or two). We didn't see any fairies, but there were plenty of white and woolly sheep enjoying their breakfast along the way.

After we checked out of Ty Gwyn, we purchased a hiker's pack at a local organic cafe--sandwiches, flapjacks, and juice. Our destination: Swallow Falls, and maybe even the Ugly House. We decided to approach the falls from the back entrance, along an old mining road, which meanders right next to the Afon Llugwy River. The mine at one time yielded lead and zinc. Today, the lead and zinc are gone, but iron remains and colors the water red. As we walked, taking in the vibrant colours, it was if time stood still, almost.

Continuing our walk, we eventually found Ty Hyll ("The Ugly House" or "Rugged House"), which is now maintained by the Snowdonia Society. Oral tradition says that in the 15th century, if a man was able to build a house in one day and have smoke coming out of the chimney by sunrise the next day, the man owned the homestead. Two brothers did just that, building Ty Hyll using very large, very heavy slate slabs (these slabs were ginormous, we really don't know how they lifted them one on top of the other). You can believe it....or not.

Finally exhausted, we found a bus to whisk us away to the train station. We did not want to go back. I was not necessarily completely re-energized, but perhaps a bit more inspired than I was at the beginning of the weekend.

We are looking for a comment or two, as always, so we ask:

What has inspired you lately? Why?

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Photos

Ty Gwyn
Our hotel

Ty Hyll
The Ugly House

jason
Hiking up the trail.

stile
Stiles are step ladders that let you climb over fences that separate different pastures.

afon llugwy
Another view of the afon llugwy

light
let there be light on the afon llugwy

iron water
this is the stream leaving the abandoned zinc and lead mine.

Comments

[Shawn Marshall]

Ugly House
The Ugly House is pretty sweet looking!!! Does a hobbit live there?

[Erin Knight]

Beautiful
England seems to be absolutely charming...I just sigh when I look at all your beautiful pictures and read your descriptions of the people and yummy food. That house really does look like a it should have hobbit as a resident. LOL!

[Seeking Nirvana]

grudgingly
ok, ok....Jason and I are agreeing...it does look like a hobbit house! It looks like it on the inside, too! Very small, but cozy!

[Becky]

Beautiful
Wow. What a beautiful hike. I had to laugh when you talked about the breakfast. Heinz beans and toast. Maybe even add a little marmite for that extra zing. I love reading your postings!! Miss you.