More Suffering for Our Art Form


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Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Outer Hebrides » Stornoway
September 29th 2022
Published: October 3rd 2022
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A Calm BayA Calm BayA Calm Bay

Our diversion for the sunrise.
As is normal with these photography workshops, we were up early and were planning on heading back to the same beach at Seliebost, which we had gone to previously for the sunrise (see Health and Safety is Secondary to Photography) as it can look very different depending on the sky.

As we were on the way, however, we changed our plans and got diverted as the water in a bay on the way was dead still and we thought would make better photographs due to the potential reflections. We parked, climbed over a fence (being careful of the barbed-wire) and headed down towards the bay. It soon became clear that this was a huge mistake as the ground was beyond uneven. The long grass that we could see was bad enough, but the ground underneath, which we couldn't see, was even more worse. One step would land nicely on the hard grass. The next step would plunge up to your knee in boggy water. But critically, we couldn't take it carefully as we needed to get to the bay so not to miss out on any of the rapidly changing light. It was extremely hard work, but then it is, sometimes, necessary to suffer for your
Lighthouse This WayLighthouse This WayLighthouse This Way

And why not stop for some tea, coffee or some nibbles (but don't expect elaborate coffees).
art-form.

We eventually got there and set-up to take our pictures. Despite the rush, it was a wait, in eager anticipation, before the sunlight would start to light up the nearby hills. It was a little frustrating as the sun was constantly on the verge of breaking through the clouds, but the clouds had other plans and they both seemed to be in a race across the sky. We were placing odds on which would win, but sadly it was the clouds so we did not get the light we were hoping for. Hopefully we still got some good pictures though and it was actually nice just to chill and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the bay, despite the stress of the sun versus clouds marathon.

When we looked around from the spot we had selected for our photographs, we saw a "passing space" signed on the side of the road, which was actually just a few yards from where we were standing. The walk back to that point was 100 times easier than that stomp across the marshlands from where we had parked.

We walked back along the road to where the minibus was parked
Eilean Glas LighthouseEilean Glas LighthouseEilean Glas Lighthouse

The lighthouse on Scalpay Island.
and went back to the hotel for breakfast. Interesting note, the sign for Tarbert (the village in which we were staying) stated that it was a "community owned estate". I had heard that much of Scotland is privately owned, including whole towns and villages.

The sky was looking a lot more dramatic than yesterday (see Heathen Photographers Racing, Fighting, Rebelling and Spoiling The Spiritual Sunrise), so we decided that today was the day to go back to Scalpay Island and get some pictures of the Eilean Glas Lighthouse. The road to the lighthouse is gated, but the gate can be opened and then there's a drive along a narrow and uneven track to where a couple of cars can part. Would could see people walking on the track, clearly annoyed that they had assumed that the gate was not to be passed. We couldn't be completely smug (just a bit) as, once we had parked, there was still quite a long walk to the lighthouse.

It made great photography, but it was also a fantastic view and a nice place to just relax and enjoy that view. Additionally, they were selling tea and coffee in the lighthouse, although it was pretty basic - black or white was
Gearrannan Blackhouse VillageGearrannan Blackhouse VillageGearrannan Blackhouse Village

No drones unless you want a major telling off.
about the only option, so no iced lattes here! They did sell Kendal Mintcake though, which might help survive the next wind-swept beach.

There were two negative firsts at this location though. One was no 4G signal, which is actually surprisingly unusual here given how remote it is. The coverage is definitely a lot better than rural Texas and Louisiana (see McDonalds to The Rescue). The second was what I think were midges. I had been expecting to be harassed everywhere we went by these little gits, but the only time was when I went down to the rocks opposite the lighthouse here. To be honest, I'm just assuming they were midges though, as I have never experienced them before.

Next we headed to the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. These are traditional stone and thatched croft houses that we thought might be quite photogenic. They weren't really, but it was interesting to have a walk around and look in the museum where there was someone using a traditional loom to weave some tweed cloth. Definitely more for the tourists than for photographers. Needless to say, we took some pictures anyway.

The drone came out again, but that got a rather fearsome woman from the village office coming across to tell us in no uncertain terms that they were not allowed. Despite the drone being landed and there being numerous sincere apologies, she was still determined to get through her lecture. "Blah blah insurance, blah blah invasion of privacy, blah blah dangerous". There was also something about setting fire to the thatched roofs, but I think she was getting into the realms of fantasy at that point.

We headed back to the hotel as the white-sheet cloud cover was not really suitable for any photography and there was almost zero chance of a sunset. That said, of course, we stopped off for a few photos on the way. We were expecting the other photography group to get back and tell us how fantastic the sunset was though. Still competitive, despite uniting when faced with the stone worshippers (see Heathen Photographers Racing, Fighting, Rebelling and Spoiling The Spiritual Sunrise).

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