Glasgow - A Football Mad City, April 2023

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Scotland’s biggest city disarmingly blends sophistication and earthiness, evolving over the last couple of decades to become one of the UK’s most intriguing metropolises. Glaswegians definitely work to live, and the city comes into its own after 5pm - that’s not to say that locals don’t pop down for a cheeky lunchtime pint too! The city’s pubs are gloriously friendly places and you’re sure to have some entertaining blethers(chats) with the locals when you dive into one. Glasgow’s live music scene is also legendary - big bands play at iconic venues, with several lower-key pubs having regular gigs that are also excellent. Clubbing is very popular, with a couple of famous dance floors and the LGBTQ-focused Pink Triangle is a notably welcoming scene.

Glasgow is where Scotland shops. The city packs out on weekends when highlanders, islanders, Edinburghers and more arrive to cruise the malls. The downtown area has several major shopping centers and arcades fully stocked with global brands, as well as more local offerings. On the fringes of this area and in the West End, are the bohemian beats (my personal favorites) with record stores, vintage clothing markets and second-hand booksellers. In the East End, the weekend-only Barras Market is quite an experience and one not to miss, blending modern concepts with cheap designer knockoffs, faded bric-a-brac and a dose of authentic working-class Glasgow.

A Little Bit of History:

Glasgow’s Gaelic name (Glaschu) means “Green Glen”, and evidence exists of a fortified prehistoric village on the site, but Glasgow didn’t begin to develop until around 550 AD with the arrival of St. Kentigern (Mungo), who established a religious community here. The present cathedral, dedicated to St. Mungo, was built on the site of a chapel begun in the 12^th century. Around the year 1190, William I designated Glasgow a burgh of barony, and in 1190 it was granted the right to hold an annual fair. It wasn’t until the union of the Scottish and English crowns in 1603, that Glasgow grew significantly.

I landed at Glasgow’s International Airport in the late afternoon – clearing immigration and collecting luggage was done and dusted within 15 minutes of deplaning, only to be greeted with heavy overcast skies, windy, chilly and a recent rain shower having left puddles everywhere as I left the terminal. Taxis were lined up outside but as I had previously verified costs to get to the city center (around $39 one way plus tip) I opted for a city shuttlebus, which is only $11 one way, with tickets being purchased either in advance online or from the driver. Bus #500 serves the most direct non-stop route between the airport terminal and the city center, terminating at the Buchanan bus station. It turned out to be a double-decker bus painted pale purple – you can’t miss this mode of transportation in a sandstorm! It took almost 45 minutes to travel the 15-mile route, as I was dead center in Glasgow’s crazy mad rush hour. A second option is the #777 public transport bus which is $6.17 one-way between the airport terminal and Buchanan Bus Station. Despite the inclement weather, brilliant splashes of yellow dotted the hedgerows along the highway and in adjacent fields – daffodils in full bloom everywhere – spring has certainly arrived in this northern clime.

Deciding on Hilton’s Doubletree Hotel in the city center as my home-away-from-home for my 2-week sojourn, I unpacked and then ventured out to explore its amenities. The Cask & Cleaver is a popular steak restaurant on the ground floor, but it was the Executive Lounge next door which caught my attention. Canapes, liquor, and a selection of hot dishes were being served for the daily evening reception – my timing was perfect. After a wonderful night’s sleep, I had my first breakfast in Glasgow with real Scottish porridge topped with golden syrup, walnuts, and sultanas – it was so good – that’s the way to start a day. The full breakfast buffet was on display. Had I the appetite (which I didn’t), it would have been satisfied with sausages, bacon, haggis, eggs, pancakes, waffles, pastries, fruit, yogurt, and everything else under the sun…. quite the spread. I fell in love with the coffee machine offering 10 different style caffeine shots. Weather was a repeat of yesterday, only a little colder. Rain apparently is always in the forecast – thank god I’m waterproof.

As always, sightseeing in any new city is via the local HOHO bus and Glasgow’s is both inexpensive and extensive, covering every major tourist attraction and then some. I opted for the 1-day ticket, $18.61 after receiving my $2.50 senior discount. The nearest bus stop just around the corner from the hotel was a no-brainer, and I spent my birthday riding around the city in picture-perfect weather – probably the only one I will see the entire trip. The 21 stops cover the entire city, and it takes approximately 90 minutes to complete one circuit, depending on traffic. Tickets can be purchased online or on the bus, but only cash/debit cards are accepted by the driver. Cash/credit cards accepted at the main #1 bus stop in George Square from the red-shirted City Sightseeing employees.

Returning from my HOHO expeditions, I discovered a local hole-in-the-wall eatery by the name of “C’mon Inn Hot Pot”, across the street from the hotel – that was enough to grab my attention, so in I went. What a great find and I was even more thrilled when I realized it was a Chinese restaurant. Terrific menu, excellent food, and even better low prices – I’ve found a gem and will be back to checkout other items which look delicious. A block away, there was another small restaurant “Curry Cottage” – enjoying Indian cuisine as I do, that’s also been added to my must-visit list before I leave. A nearby back alley revealed “The Oxford”, a traditional fish-&-chips shop with very low prices. These local out-of-tourist areas almost always are the best places to eat.

My travel mantra has always been “free, cheap or on-sale” which results in my discovering anything that would be described as such. The following are ten of my favorite freebie items which tourists can enjoy without digging into wallets…..

10 Freebie things to do in this City:

1. Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum - a jewel of Glasgow’s west end, it’s worth taking a trip just to admire the grand Victorian sandstone building alone. Inside, you’ll find a treasure trove of over 8,000 objects in 22 different galleries, with the most famous works including Salvador Dali’s “Christ of St. John of the Cross”, Sir Roger the Asian Elephant and Sophie Cave’s now iconic “Floating Heads”.

2. Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis - arguably the country’s most majestic medieval building, the cathedral is the only one on the Scottish mainland to survive beyond the 1560 Reformation Act intact. Found in the crypt here is the tomb of St. Kentigern or Mungo, the city’s founder and patron saint. The adjacent necropolis inspired by Paris’ revered Pere Lachaise, is the site of about 50,000 burials and 3,500 tombs, and a spot that offers a unique look over Glasgow from its hilltop position - makes for a great picture op.

3. George Square and City Chambers - the city’s focal point, George Square, is not only a place for Glaswegians to gather, it’s also a celebration of some of Scotland’s historical figures, with several statues depicting notables including poet Robbie Burns and playwright Sir Walter Scott. A regular stage for high-profile music events and festivals, the square has been featured in Hollywood blockbusters World War Z and Hobbs & Shaw. The western edge is dominated by the prestigious City Chambers where you can wander around on a free guided tour.

4. Gallery of Modern Art - located in the heart of the city center, GOMA is the most visited gallery in the country; works from local and international artists are all housed within the striking Royal Exchange Square building. On the front doorstep you’ll encounter the statute of the Duke of Wellington - never seen without a traffic cone on his head - a landmark that has become as famous as the gallery itself.

5. Kelvingrove Park - make your way north to Gibson Street for a great row of coffee shops and claim your seat in an oasis of calm in the middle of the city. The park offers raw beauty in every season of the year and expect to be greeted by cheeky squirrels and dogs out for a stroll with their owners.

6. Riverside Museum and the Tall Ship - artifacts on display here illustrate transport and travel through the ages, ranging from skateboards to stormtroopers, while the Tall Ship - saved from ruin and sailed back to Glasgow from Seville in 1990 over 100 years after its maiden voyage - remains a major tourist draw.

7. People’s Palace - if you’re looking for an interactive history lesson on the city and its people, head to the People’s Palace, the stunning 19^th century building which sits proudly in the vast, lush Glasgow Green. It’s home to hundreds of paintings, prints and photographs, illustrating the life of Glasgow from 1750 until the present day.

8. City Center Mural Trail - this is my most favorite place to visit. Over the past decade, run down and hidden areas of the city in need of serious TLC, have been transformed by bright and beautiful murals thanks to an ever-growing local street art scene, as well as vibrant contributions from overseas. A self-guided walking tour takes in 25 such sights and you can obtain a straightforward mural map from the trail website.

9. The Hunterian Museum - a visit to Glasgow wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Glasgow University, described by many as a real-life Hogwarts and not one for Harry Potter fans to miss! Inside you’ll find the fantastic Hunterian Museum, Scotland’s oldest one, which features an eclectic array of items such as an Egyptian Mummy, objects from Captain Cook’s voyages, and the largest body of work from famed architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

10. The Lighthouse - located just off Buchanan Street, is Scotland’s National Center for Design and Architecture, which hosts regular events and exhibitions. Visitors are encouraged to climb the stairs to the best Glasgow viewpoint, hands down.

Calling all shopaholics…..the city center is awash with stores and shops of every description. However, first give serious consideration to spending a few hours at Buchanan Galleries, adjacent to Buchanan Bus Station in downtown. Four floors and over 80 stores to delight your shopping desires and giving credit cards a screaming fit: from foreign currency exchange to restaurants to clothing stores, simply everything from A to Z, soup to nuts. Open 7 days a week with varying hours (check online for this). It was here I exchanged my US dollars for British pounds at a decent rate; stopped by Boots Chemist again for more No. 7 toiletries and stocked up on Scottish shortbread in Sainsburys. I had a ball – who cared that it was raining outside, chilly and damp with temps hovering around 49f?

Another interesting and worthwhile smaller shopping mall with 37 stores, is The Savoy Market. A second “soup to nuts” complex with food venues, Marks & Spencer store, pharmacies, clothing outlets and boutiques to please any shopper. Open 7 days a week (check online for opening and closing hours).

A few interesting facts about the City:

· Has the world’s 3^rd oldest metro system (only Budapest and London are older) which opened in 1896. Its subway route is circular, with two lines (“inner” and “outer”) circumnavigating a loop which twice crosses the River Clyde.

· Hosted the world’s 1^st international football match in 1872. Final score: Scotland 0 - England 0

· The Horseshoe Bar in Glasgow was established in 1884 by Cavalry Captain John Scouller. At 104’ long, it is the longest bar in the UK.

· Cowboy Roy Rogers and his horse Trigger rode all the way round the Horseshoe Bar in 1954.

· A “Glasgow Kiss” is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as a “head butt”. Its earliest recorded use was in 1982.

· In 2013, the city had the highest rates of homicide and violent crime in the entire U.K.

· The oldest known use of the word “Glaswegian” was in Sir Walter Scott’s “Rob Roy” in 1817.

· It’s the only city to have won the “Curry Capital of Britain” title 4 times.

· At 203’ high, Cineworld Glasgow is the tallest movie theater in the world.

· According to Billy Connolly, “the great thing about Glasgow is that if there’s a nuclear attack, it’ll look exactly the same afterwards.”

And you thought Glasgow was all about single malt whiskeys, right? I beg to differ! It wasn’t until I came here and got chatting with a local bartender who educated me on Scotland’s gin history. This country apparently is at the forefront of the current “gin boom” with over 70%!o(MISSING)f the tipple made in the United Kingdom, is actually made in Scotland. This includes Gordon’s (the world’s biggest seller), Hendrick’s, and Tanqueray as well as a host of small-batch, independent producers from every corner of this country.

There are now about 100 gin distilleries here, however, Scotland’s association with gin dates back much further than the last few years, and its love affair with gin can be traced back to the 1700s and is largely associated with the city of Leith.

Leith was at the center of early Scottish gin production for many reasons. Firstly, there was already a thriving whiskey industry in the area, which meant there were skilled tradesmen in glass-making, coopering and warehousing. Secondly, as a dockside town which was relatively close to the Netherlands (Scotland’s most important trading partner at that time), there was easy access to spices and raw materials vital for gin production. By 1777 there were 8 licensed gin distilleries in Edinburgh alone, not to mention the huge number of unlicensed stills in operation too (thought to be around 400).

An interesting fact about gin: Gin is made from juniper berries, but juniper is not berry – it’s a seed – with nearly all the juniper used in gin making is picked straight from the wild. During the plague years in the 14^th century, doctors wore masks stuffed with juniper and people began eating and drinking these berries, with the hopes it would fend off disease and infection.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Glasgow
Beautiful.

[D MJ Binkley]

A kilt and more
This is a fantastic photo.