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Published: October 2nd 2006
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God’s Country is a Scottish name for all of the Highlands, but our destination today particularly deserves this designation. The island of Iona is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been, and it also has a thriving religious community. It’s one of those wonderful unspoiled places that you read about in fairy tales and wish still existed.
From Oban’s harbour, we took a ferry to the Island of Mull. Ally drove the bus onto the ferry, although we all got off and sat on the top deck. Sometimes you can see seals, minke whales, and even dolphins in this part of the Atlantic Ocean. I did catch a glimpse of a seal swimming with its head above water! I also saw a few “oil slicks,” smooth patches on the surface that indicate that a large animal just dived under, but I never actually saw the whales or dolphins. The ferry ride was about an hour long. Once we docked on the east coast of Mull, we got back on the bus and drove all the way across the island (about an hour’s trip) to a port on the west coast. On the way, we passed picturesque Duart Castle, the
seat of the Macleans (MacLains). According to their clan site, some of the names associated with this clan are Beath, Beaton, Black, Dewart, Macbeth, MacCormack (!), Macladyen, Macvey, Patten, and Paton. From the port, we took a much smaller ferry over to Iona. The bus did not fit on this ferry, but there was no point bringing it anyway because there are no cars on Iona. (Don’t you love it already??)
Mere words cannot describe Iona. Frankly, pictures don’t work so well either. I wanted a picture of Iona for my desktop wallpaper, so I tried searching online, and none of the alleged professional photos did justice to the stunning scenery. So while reading my description, just imagine the most gorgeous dream world you can.
The ferry landed at the tip of a rocky area that projected slightly from the main island. From there, we followed a path up a hill and were instantly in the perfect spot to survey the entire island. Iona became prominent in 563, when St Columba (Columcill) landed on the island and decided to start a Celtic monastery. During the middle ages, Iona’s connection with a saint drew large numbers of Christians, who
built an abbey and a nunnery to support Columba’s growing following. So after climbing the hill, our first stop was the ruins of the nunnery. Built during the twelfth century (I think), the nunnery has decayed to little more than a several half-walls, a few arches, and the original foundation still marking where the walls used to be. Beautiful flowers have grown all over the stones, and one tiny stained-glass window is still intact. I saw an elderly couple having a picnic in one corner. I was surprised by how small the nunnery was - it probably housed about ten people. It was built as a companion to Iona Abbey, which was restored during the 19th century and so survives to this day.
The abbey serves as the meeting place for the Iona Community, a group of men and women who are committed to support each other in faith and work for social progress. It was really nice to see something that’s still in use, that hasn’t been all polished and Scotticised for tourists. The fliers advertising the next community meeting did not detract from its old-world charm. In fact, to enhance the mood, there was a service in progress in one of the chapels! Because the abbey is fairly small and most of its rooms are in use, visitors mostly walk around the cloisters, which surround a square central courtyard. There is a really interesting and intricate statue in the middle. It sort of resembles four people in robes standing back-to-back, with a sort of tulip coming up to surround them. I’m attaching a picture so you can see what I mean. The grass was sparklingly green, wildflowers were blooming, and the stones were nicely softened with age. The picture seems to have been taken on a cloudy day, so ignore its dreary appearance.
Outside the abbey is a replica of the famous St John’s Cross. During the middle ages, the Iona monks decided to decorate the abbey’s entrance with a tall, ornately carved cross. However, they were a bit too ambitious - they made the “arms” too long, so they broke off, causing the top to crumble as well. So the monks attached a stone circle around the top of the cross, to help support the arms’ weight. The design became wildly popular throughout Scotland and Ireland, and is what everyone now calls a Celtic cross. How fascinating that such a widespread, iconic symbol started out as a mistake!
After leaving the abbey, I almost walked past a small stone shed. Then I noticed a discreet sign saying that it was a “museum.” Inside, there were dozens of old stone carvings - tombstones, statues, and other blocks too eroded to decipher. One tombstone had a Gaelic inscription telling a brief story about an entire family. There were also the remains of the original St John’s Cross. Unfortunately, even the reinforcements did not last forever, and now part of the stone circle is missing, so the arms are suspended in place and surrounded by a plastic circle, to give viewers an idea of how it once looked.
Outside the museum, I encountered the most hard-core thistles I’ve ever seen. These babies were five feet tall! And the prickly flowery bit was the size of a golf ball! They were also a really nice periwinkle colour. They were INTENSE! I’d really like some for my garden one day!
After exploring the two religious buildings, I spent the rest of the day wandering around the island. I found a path and just started walking. I passed lots of cute white-washed houses with brightly painted shutters and laundry hanging in the yard. On the other side of the path, sheep and coos (no Highland coos, unfortunately) grazed freely. Cute little seabirds also waddled around in the fields next to the farm animals. I also passed the primary school. In a tiny yard outside, five children and two teachers were playing “football.” It was so cute! Since there are only 300 people on Iona, students have to go to Glasgow for secondary school. Eventually, I came to a proper farm, as they say here. It was still really small, but it had a lot more animals, a silo, and some actual farm equipment. After navigating a cow-pat-riddled field, I found myself at the beach. It was a glorious sight. The water was a brilliant turquoise, and edged by glittering white sand, chiselled rocks, and green sea grass. I couldn’t believe I was looking at the North Atlantic. Lisa later said that it reminded her of the beach at Capri, Italy. Only two other people were in sight - and they had an adorable dog with them, so I forgave them for disrupting the incredibly beautiful, peaceful scene.
Eventually, it was time to catch our ferry back to Mull, so I went back to the landing area. However, Lisa then told me that she had seen something I was looking for in one of the gift shops (hee hee, can’t tell you what it was!). So I asked Ally if I had time to run back there before the ferry pulled in, and he, of course, said, “You’ve got until that boat gets from over there to here. Nae bother, bash on.” When I got back, Ally asked me what I had bought. I showed him, and he was very impressed. I think he was flattered, on behalf of his nation, that I had bought something so Scottish. He said, “Good on ye, lassie, that’s a peach!” (I’ve got such a crush on him!)
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Nzie
non-member comment
sounds lovely
awww... you should ask Ally out. :) and I do hope you remember that Columkille was effectively exiled there after that whole nasty incident with the Psalter... ;) *sigh* I want to go.. ~N~