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Published: September 21st 2011
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Today we had intermittent weather. Some say intermittent sun, others say intermittent rain. By the end of the day we had neither, just sun, cloud and wind at the same time. The wind was strong enough to cancel the ferries to Muck. So the saying, “You can’t see Muck for Rum and Eigg” was almost true. This time though, it was because of haze brought on by the wind.
This was our second full day on Mull and we decided to explore some of the narrow roads around the northern part of the island. We started on B8073, a single lane road with many pot holes. Next we took a side road which didn’t have a code but was single lane, with very few passing places and more pot holes. After negotiating our way past a herd of Highland cattle and passing the entrance to a castle a long way from civilisation, we stopped for a photo shoot, only to encounter the effects of an unmarked electric fence. The holiday nearly came to an abrupt end but we are made of stern stuff so after re-gathering our hair and composure we retraced our steps.
While exploring another side road to
the coast we stopped at a very nice restaurant, am birlinn, for coffee and shortbread. What a wonderful place and a very tasty looking menu. Perhaps on our next trip to Mull we’ll have to book in for dinner. An added advantage is they provide a free pick up and drop off to Tobermory. While we were enjoying our coffee we got talking with the hostess. During the conversation the subject of the roads cropped up. She told us that in October the annual Rally of Mull will be held. By then the pot holes will be great for some adventurous driving, after which they say the roads might get fixed.
Rounding the headland facing the open sea the wind was really getting up and made for some difficult photo taking. The views from the road high above the sea were spectacular and with the sun shining the blue sea was splashed with white as the sea crashed onto the rocky shore.
We wanted to explore one of several cemeteries on the island. We found one with its own church in a reasonably sheltered bay. As we approached the church we were welcomed by a lady who proved to be
a fount of knowledge regarding the church and its history. The church site goes back to medieval times with several old grave stones dating back to the 14th century. The church, Kilninian, has connections with Iona and is in a direct line with the island. Because of the interest we were showing Marina chose to show us a nearby natural spring. Leading to it was an old pathway lined by small rock walls, quite different to other rock walls nearby. The spring was probably used by monks as a place of worship and source of water. The small man-made grotto that had been developed around the spring may go back to the time when an earlier church stood on the site of the present 18th century building. This little spring was given the name of Toberninian (The Spring of Ninian). It was only by chance that we stopped at this church and cemetery but on reflection a visit we would not have missed.
We had a lot to talk about on our way back to Tobermory (The Spring of Mary). But we both agreed the visit was memorable and just adds another paragraph to this chapter of our trip. Once
again the unexpected events can be a highlight. Back at the hotel we reflected on a very satisfying day. It was full of shocks, surprises and pleasures. Tomorrow we head back to the mainland.
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