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Isn't Nature a Freak!
Stepping Stones at Giants Causeway This is an exciting day! I've scheduled a tour for the coast north of Belfast. Planned - Rope Bridge, Dunluce Castle, Bushmills Distillery and the Giant's Causeway.
9:15 the tour bus came to the hotel and picked a group of us up. This didn't start off all that well, as once they picked up a few more, we went back to their headquarters, and we had to pay for the trip (which we thought we had done when we reserved). Then they advised that the £18 was actually £20, and because I was paying by Visa it would be £22. Oh, and by the way, they aren't covering any admissions (and they didn't know how much they were - so there!), all of which didn't match their brochure. Maybe I should just jump ship now!?!
I'm glad I didn't. This trip is definitely worth it, and if you don't have a car, this is they way to go. The way up we take the scenic coastal route which is beautiful. Was surprised to see these soaring cliffs above the ocean, and rolling green hills complete with sheep, lots and lots of sheep, and many valleys with steep hills
Stepping Stones
Up close & personal. To give you an idea of the size of them. around them. Derelict homes abound. While at home we might have a derelict farm building (of course everyone wanting to strip off all that lovely weathered barn board), here it's stone buildings, or what is left of one. Age - undetermined. There were also a lot of newer homes (last 100 years) that look like they are in fine condition, but are just abandoned, often with windows & doors boarded up.
Along the way we stop at 3 caves where our driver tells us their tale - they've housed a distillery, home and a school - of course all illegal, and many times over. Next we stop by the Vanishing Lake, which just happens to be there that day. Apparently the ghosts of warriors and horses past come and drink their fill, and when they do, the lake just disappears. They have no scientific explanation for it, so that story works for me.
Our first official stop is for a pee break, and a quick walk around the harbour. Very quaint. It's our next stop that had everyone gasping. The Carrick a Rede rope bridge. I'll let you check out the pictures for it's characteristics. £1.85 to get
More Stepping Stones
It was easy steps up here in (discounted rate as we are on the tour), and you get to walk across the rope bridge, which is at least a km away. This bridge was put up each year so the fisherman could get to their fishing grounds. Now they have modern technology, but we tourists like the challenge of yesteryear. Only 8 people on at a time. I'm sure it's not because of the weight, but because it's so bouncy, that each person who steps on adds another inch to the height of your step. The other side is just the top of a cliff/rock formation. Not much to see except for beautiful coastlines. When you look down at the shoreline below, I'm sure I saw caves that pirates would've hidden in, in the good old days!
One great story we heard was that the island you can see of in the distance (where people still live) is where the Scot Robert the Bruce hid out from the English. He watched a spider, who day after day, attempted to build a web, and each day failed. Finally, one glorious day, he suceeded. Robert was fascinated with this spiders determination, and a thought came to him.
I'm going to walk all the way over there?
Stepping stones behind me looking across the bay at some of the other formations. Get those feet moving - it's a long way over there If at first you don't suceed, try try again. And with that sage piece of advice in mind, he returned to Scotland, rallied the troops, and defeated the English. So now you know where the saying comes from.
Next we stop on the edge of the highway and are shown Dunluce Castle. Best photo op side apparently. The story goes, that one of the original families had a huge party one night, and with all of them partying and dancing, the edge of the cliff broke away, and a number of guests, along with the back end of the castle, just disappeared into the great beyond. We're all excited to go and check it out, but alas, we aren't going. It's only a photo op - no time on this tour. Drats!
Our next stop - Bushmills Distillery. Only myself, a journalist (former American, now Aussie), and a young spanish fellow decide to do this tour. What's up with that? I mean, you get to do a tasting after the tour, included in your admission of £4.50. They chose lunch over that?
I must say, it wasn't all that exciting. The facility is going to be 400
Organ Pipes
Leaving the Stepping Stones & Wishing Chair behind, this is next on the lower pathway. years old next year, and does produce the best Irish Whiskey, so really, what else is important? As it's a Sunday, most of the operations aren't happening, so you just walk through the areas, and are told to imagine, or remember from the 15 minute video we watched at the beginning. I'm just wondering when we are getting to the good stuff. Of course, it has decided to start the on and off again pouring rain, so we are all running between building to building. At least everyone said they were running because of the rain. Finally, we get to the end. 6 choices of whiskey, or a hot toddy. I haven't a clue of what to try, and was leaning towards the hot toddy (the recipe of which I have scammed from the bartender), but he convinced me that I should try some of the 10 year old stuff. I head off to my seat, and take a slug. Holy crap - did someone just crack me in the head? This is wickedly strong. You must take it like a man - straight up. I have to admit, it really was smooth, but it burned all the way down.
More than halfway done
I've completed the lower pathway (which isn't so low), and now have to get up to the Upper Pathway (destination midway top of pic) and 164 stairs. Was wishing I had the hot toddy after all.
Our last stop is the one we've all been waiting for. The Giants Causeway. This is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and is actually free to see. This is quite common in the UK, where items of importance (like museums and this), are free admission, with a requested donation. This location is open 24 hours a day, and people hike in the area regularly. North American officials would have a heart attack over here. Nothing (and this is anywhere in the UK) is wheelchair friendly, and it's not uncommon to see signs like - big waves might suck you out to sea, falling rocks, unfenced steep drop. And not a inkling of any type of safety feature up in the area, or sections cordoned off. I like it! Reminds me of the good old days!
There are 2 stories about how the Giant's Causeway was created. First is the tale of Finn MacCool who was a gentlemanly giant. He was to battle the giant Benandonner from Scotland, and he felt it would be inhospitable for Benandonner to get his feet wet on the trip over, so he built a
Just can't get enough
Really, these aren't man made pathway of stone. When Benandonner finally makes the trek, Finn is astonished at how big he is, and gets a bit worried. He disguises himself as a baby, and his wife tells Benandonner that Finn is no where to be found. Benandonner checks out the "little" baby, and thinks something is up. He is so mad, he storms off back to Scotland, destroying the rock pathway in between the two islands. The second story is that it's lava formations. Which do you believe?
I don't believe these pictures even begin to show how incredible this place is. It's so bizarre, that you honestly can't believe that nature could've created something like this. The stones are typically 6 sided, and are anywhere up to 40' tall. They are easily walked on, and appear to be perfectly laid out for a minimal amount of effort to climb up and over any of them.
I almost missed the bus going home that night. We had almost 2 hours here, which was supposed to be more than enough. Curiousity got the better of me, and a few others, and we decided to walk the entire lower path (the last part of which
is now closed due to a rock slide) to check out some other formation, and then back on the upper path. For those of you who know me, I've always said, you can take the girl out of the prairie, but not the prairie out of the girl. These are monstrous cliffs we are talking about, and I went down, and I went up, and I went down, and I climbed 164 stairs, and 5 minutes after we were supposed to get back, I dragged my sorry ass, wheezing, huffing and puffing, the last 100 yards across the parking lot, all while stripping off as much clothing as I could. Half of this adventure was accomplished in the midst of a major downpour, and I'm not only wet, but I'm covered in red mud. The sign said 2 km. By whose measure? The crow? Don't believe everything you read.
I slept most of the way back. We take the hwy back, so there isn't much to see. The nap refreshes me, and I race upstairs to my hotel room to find some clean clothes, have a quick wash, and back out for chinese food at the Red Panda. Pretty
Dunluce Castle
The family who gets rid of unwanted party guests in a grisly way good place, and is close to the hotel. There is no way I'm missing out on music & booze tonight, so I head to the backside of a pub next door to the Crown (you enter in Robinsons, go through the double doors at the back, and find yourself in Fibbers). There I find a bartender who knows how to keep the vodka and cranberry flowing, and for only £3.70. The band who played were quite good, although they would play one traditional song, then a new non-irish song, and so on. The place was packed, and you could tell how much everyone loved the traditional irish songs, as there was so much clapping, singing, and foot stomping, you could barely hear. I'm sure the Pied Piper was Irish!
As I was sitting at the bar, most people passed my way. I could've gotten lucky that night with an American (born and raised in Belfast, moved to the US with his family, and then moved back again 4 years ago), but hey, if I'm going to get involved with someone over here, he better have a sexy accent, and a US one just isn't exotic enough!
Had a
You've got to be kidding
Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge - no wonder they say don't look down. terrific conversation with a Belfast woman. She explained Dublin to me. She said that they have been growing unbelievably fast, emmigration is happening at an incredible rate, and that there is no infrastructure to handle the almost doubled population. They are not too bothered though, as they are much wealthier now too. Unfortunately, it also means that the tourists suffer, as they just haven't had the experience with the tourism sector, and don't get the good customer service concept (that I can confirm with story after story). She also told me that there are much more women than men in the Republic, and that this allowed the guys to be a little more egotistical than they already were. Probably explains why so many women were pregnant too.
Really enjoyed myself here. While there isn't a whole lot to do in Belfast, there is a lot to absorb and take in. I could've used another 3/4 of a day here, and I would've felt that I had a really good overview. Also didn't help that I was here on the weekend, when things are at their quietest.
Last night in my wonderful 4 star hotel. Tomorrow I fly back
to London on Easy Jet. Can't believe 2 weeks have already passed on my holiday.
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AmorelaRagazza
Jessica Bowers
I am studying in Northern Ireland next spring! Specifically in Derry, but I will be in and out of Belfast, I'm sure. I found your journal to be a very fun and informative read! :) I can't wait to see all these places!