Hadrians Wall to Hereford via Wales

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Day 93 Monday 15 June

Hadrians Wall

16c cloudy patches



At breakfast we discovered that Sally is a doctor, a GP in Shrewsbury. She said there were 5 doctors among the 12 volunteers at the dig. Mick's wife Angela died of cancer some time ago and it is obvious that he misses her and runs the B&B as much for the company as the income. As we finish breakfast he comes and has a cup of coffee with us. He has this beautiful dog, a pointer named Alfie who he brings down after breakfast. When we finish they go for a 6 mile walk. Gail mentioned at breakfast that her feet had got wet yesterday because she had not brought her walking boots with her (I did) so Mick went upstairs and brought down a pair of really good walking shoes that were his wife's for Gail to try on and borrow if they fit. Luckily they were perfect so she borrowed them for the day.



We drove to Once Brewed again and got a map then went to the Steel Rig car park and went for a walk along the Wall climbing Steel Rig which is a large rock outcrop with a very steep side on the Scottish side and sloping away to the dales and then the Moors. After an hour or so we reached the end of the rocky outcrop we stopped and had a snack then walked back to the car park, then walked for about 3/4 of an hour up the wall on the other side. As we walked back we had a great view of all,the walk we had done. In all we walked for about 3 and 1/2 hours.



From there we drove to Core Gap which was an old quarry which had destroyed the Wall in that area. Then on to Birdoswald, another Roman fort. This is when we discovered that we were just about Romaned out. We looked over the escarpment which was impressive and Gail walked a bit more of the wall. Lanercost Priory was about 4 miles further up the road so we went there. It was pretty impressive, but was built in about the 13th century mainly from rocks stolen from the Wall. It was so obvious when you looked at the symmetrical way the rocks were cut compared to,the rocks in the Wall. Back in the ticket office we tasted some wine and bought a bottle of Ginger wine.



As we needed some cash we drove to Haltwhistle to find an ATM then back to the Wall road and to the Mile Castle Inn where we had dinner. Gail had Turkey Pie and I had Shepherds Pie and a cider and a beer.



Back to the B&B and to bed.



Day 94 Tuesday 16 June

Hadrians Wall to Llangollen Wales

16c cloudy



At breakfast we had a long talk to Mick about his life. He obviously misses his wife very much. He spends most of his winters as a consultant in vinyl finishing in India and Africa.



We left about 10.00am and after filling up drove back up into the moors, this time it was Alston Moor and we could see the scenery which was worth seeing. Near Penrith and with some difficulty (three tries up a very narrow road with no signage) we arrived at Castlerigg Stone Circle which was really interesting. They estimate the circle to be 4,500 years old. They were set on top of a rise surrounded by spectacular mountains. It was an amazing place.



Then we drove down into Keswick and as we were in the Lakes District we looked for the lake but didn't find it. We drove South through the Lakes District to Thirlmere Lake and then on to Grassmere which was a lovely spot on the lake but totally invaded by an army of tourists in coaches. They were everywhere and the streets were really crowded.



After that we had had enough of the Lakes which are too touristy for us and we decided to set off for Wales. This was a spur of the moment decision. After what we thought were mistakes and driving over Horseshoe Pass we ended up at Llangollen which is where we wanted to go. We booked into a B&B called the Abbey Grange Hotel just outside of town. It's a bit old rather than being vintage but will do the job.



We drove down into town and parked beside the Ponsonby Arms Hotel because they offered free parking in the town parking area beside them if you had a drink only to discover, after we had ordered our drinks that parking is free after 5.00pm. Gail had cider that was 7.5% alcohol so she had 1/2 a pint rather than her usual pint.



The River Dee ran just below the hotel so we walked along it into the town. It was a lovely walk and the town was really beautiful, lovely houses and buildings, gardens and streets. We found a boutique pub right on the river and got a table where we could look up the river to the mountains and down the river to the bridge and the town. It was a lovely spot. Gail had a goats cheese, tomato and asparagus quiche with a lovely salad and I had mussels in a very tasty sauce with a white wine and a beer. Good meal in a great location but very expensive. We walked back to the car and drove back to our accommodation.



One thing that has been prominent on our drives through the country has been the Rhododendrons which have been in full bloom and absolutely beautiful.



Day 95 Wednesday 17 June

Llangollen to Hereford

21c cloudy, light rain at times



We had breakfast which was ok although it was served by a not very cheerful woman. Just down the road from our accommodation was the Croix Abbey which was a Cistertian monastery. It was really interesting to walk around. As we drove down into town we stopped in a car park and walked up to the Elsemere canal which runs through the town but well above the river. There were some school kids obviously on a school canoeing excursion having great trouble controlling their canoes. As it is a very narrow canal they were completely blocking it.



We parked in town in the same car park (1 pound for 4 hours so yesterday's free parking was an even worse deal than we thought). The main wharf for the canal was just above the parking area so we walked up. There were a number of canal boats moored and others sailing up the canal. We spoke to 4 Australians from Adelaide who were doing the trip and they were having a ball. The boats are very long and thin but there are still many places where they cannot pass each other so it's a case of get out and walk to check other boats and then wait till it is ok to go. We walked along the canal for about 40 minutes then back to the wharf just in time to see the horse drawn boat come in. The horses are a small version of a draft horse, probably about 10 to 11 hands. Later another horse took a group kindergarten school kids on a trip. They were very excited.



From there we drove to Telford where there is an 120ft long aqueduct taking the canal over the Dee river which is 100ft below. One side has a path and a fence for the walkers but the boat drivers have to steer across with less than a foot on either side and the edge of canal below the deck line. They seemed to be enjoying the challenge. Telford was the name of the guy who built the aqueduct in the early 1800s.



From Telford we drove South and East through very green fields and at times heavy rain. We ended up in Hereford without actually planning to and found a B&B, the Cedar Guest House, and guess what our room is on the second floor so the cases stayed in the car again. The city centre was about a 15 minute walk away so we went down and found the Steak and Cider Inn and had dinner then walked up to the market square past the Cathedral. There is a statue of Edward Elgar near the church with his bicycle because he lived in Hereford and used to ride his bile into the country for inspiration for his music. There was also a 16th century half wooden house in the market square which looked to be in perfect condition.



Back to the accommodation and bed.

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