Johnny's Journeys : SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND 2005

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JOHNNY’S JOURNEYS : SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND 2005



JUNE 12, 2005 SUNDAY

6:00 a.m. Three smiling faces. When’s the last time that happened? Shuttle service came early today, about

10:00. Loaded four pieces of luggage and three carry-on bags. Grandma and Boppa Walters followed us to

the airport. Waited awhile, then said our good-byes. Breezed through the metal detector. Everyone

had to remove their shoes.

Boarded our Delta plane for a 1:12 departure. Thirty nine children from People To People Student

Ambassador program are seated behind us. “Atlanta Airport is a mess. No incoming or outgoing flights.

Hartsfield International Airport is locked down.” Oh great. So we sit and wait, and wait and wait. For 90

minutes. Finally at 2:42, we’re on our way. Fortunately, we had a 2 and ½ hour layover in Atlanta. This

delay will eat up most of it.

Trying to leave Atlanta, another delay. About 30 minutes. Okay, so we can have a chance to eat. Who

would have thought it? Burger King was out of hamburgers, cheeseburgers & Whoppers. Two Angus

burgers, large drinks and some chocolate Sundae pies will fill us up. Should leave about 6:40.

Well, it’s 7:30 instead of 6 p.m. and we’re on our way! Approximately 8 hours of flying ahead of us.

Received a nice meal, early in the flight: braised beef with pepper sauce, mashed potatoes, gravy, green

beans, salad and a brownie.

Each seat on this Delta 777 had a small TV screen in front of it. Choice of television (movies) or radio

(8 different types of stations) and compass. The compass screen was an updated, ongoing map, showing

our plane, with the land and cities below. It was fun to follow “our” flight, after we left Atlanta. Followed

our progress through South Carolina, North Carolina and up into Virginia. At times the map showed how

many miles between us and two of our closest cities. Flew on up the Atlantic coast.

Flying over Canada, the map showed we were over Halifax, Nova Scotia, then across the northern

Atlantic Ocean. Tried to rest and even sleep. But that is so hard to accomplish on a plane. ‘Miles to

Destination’ appeared frequently on this “compass” map. Atlanta to London Gatwick Airport : 4324

miles. As the hours went by, I was rather mesmerized by our ongoing location on the map. At one time,

we were closer to Iceland than any other land. Reykjavik : 973 miles. Flew over Ireland, then England.
Landed in London Gatwick about 8:30 a.m. Advancing six time zones, it was now Monday morning.

Validated our BritRail Pass. Unlimited train rides for the next 15 days. $900 for the three of us. Claimed

our baggage, then converted some U.S. Dollars into British pounds.

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!!!!!



JUNE 13, 2005 MONDAY

Hopped on the Gatwick Express train into London. An Australian gentleman helped us get our luggage

stored. 30 minutes later, we arrived at Victoria Station. Took the underground subway train (known as the

Tube) to King Crossing Station. From there, accidentally got on the “smoking coach”. This was a “Flying

Scotsman” train. Quickly moved one car down. Settled in for a 4 & ½ hour train trip.

Passed through the eastern part of England. Mostly farming country. Saw cattle, horses and thousands

of sheep. Then, through the green valleys and gently rolling hills.

Excited to see the North Sea. Rode through small towns and old cities such as York and Newcastle.

Saw a few light-houses on the shoreline.

Cloudy skies gave way to a light rain. “Refreshments” the attendant called out, as he rolled his little

cart of snacks, sandwiches and drinks down the aisle. At 4:23 p.m. we finally reached Edinburgh’s

Waverly Station.

Planned to stay in a private residence for Bed and Breakfast at 42 Dublin Street. It is only 4 blocks

from the train station. Ann Scott greets us and has her two sons help bring the luggage up two flights

of steps.

We have a nice, large bedroom and private bathroom. Ann is an interior decorator and we are settling

into a charming home. This stretch of buildings on Dublin St. was built in 1820. Have a pot of hot tea

and petite crackers with raspberry jam to welcome us.

Make reservations for 6:30 for StacPolly, The Scottish Restaurant. Below street level, it is very old and

quaint. Angus beef for Bethany, and Janet and I try the loin of lamb with tiny new potatoes and green

beans. For an appetizer, we order a haggis (spiced meat and oats stuffed in a phyllo dough). White

chocolate mousse for dessert. Wonderful !

Walked ½ block and across the street and we’re “home”. I decided to head back to the train station and
check departure times. Exhausted from the travels, we’re in bed by 9:45. Had to close the curtains,

since it is still light outside.



JUNE 14, 2005 TUESDAY

Up at 6:30 and enjoy a hot shave. Traditional Scottish breakfast with porridge and oat cakes, home-

made marmalade, buttered toast and hot tea. Our young sleepy-head doesn’t get up until 10:30.

That’s almost 13 hours. Must be jet-lag. Will stay in Edinburgh today and start with a double-

decker bus tour of the city.

Stopped at the Royal Bank of Scotland to convert my U.S. Dollars into British Sterling Pounds.

A beautiful old building, completed in the 1820’s. Very ornate inside, especially the ceiling.

Bought 3 tickets for the Edinburgh City Tours bus. Our first double-decker. Saw highlights of

the central part of the capitol-city: the Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, Holyrood House Palace, etc.

Finished in about 90 minutes. Walked back to our room to grab the rain ponchos. Then to Chocolatsoup

for lunch. Sandwiches, drinks and chips. With our 24-hour bus pass, boarded again then disembarked

at the Edinburgh Castle.

We enjoyed a guided tour. When completed, we were free to explore at our own pace. The oldest part,

still standing, was St. Margaret’s Chapel, dating back to 1153. Many, many artifacts from the Middle Ages.

Visited the room where Mary, Queen of Scots lived and gave birth to James VI, who would become King

James I of England, in 1603.

Saw all we could, until the Edinburgh Castle closed at 6:00. Marveled at one of the best views of the

capitol city, from high upon the castle.

Started walking down the Royal Mile. At the opposite end of this one mile street is the Palace of

Holy rood House, summer home of the queen.

Stopped in at the Tartan Weaving Mill & Exhibition. There were working demonstrations of the tartan

fabric, soft wool and cashmere. **Lots** of plaid patterns. There was a history of tartan clothing through

the centuries. Bought some pretty scarves and a beautiful sea-green and cream plaid blanket.

Explored several of the steep and narrow alleys which are adjacent to the Royal Mile. Made our way to

the sight where 4 or 5 different tours started. Decided to join the 7 p.m. Ghosts and Ghouls Walking Tour.
Our guide, Ross, had been participating in these tours for 15 years. Very knowledgeable of the “dark”

side of life in 16th - 19th century Edinburgh.

Two volunteers were needed for the first demonstration. Guess who? A man from Minnesota and I

were “flogged” in the public square with 39 lashes from the whip. Another very cruel punishment for

crimes: nailing both ears to the wall and slitting one’s face. You were then truly smiling from ear to ear.

Punishment for witches included drowning. That was the easy way out. With hands and feet bound, ,

if she floated up to the surface and survived, then the torture methods were utilized to extract a confession,

before she was finally burned at the stake, either dead or alive.

Ross then spoke about the Plague which struck in 1645. Bubonic plague (half the people survived it).

The pneumonic plague was airborne and affected the lungs. Skin turned black and was 98% fatal within

24 hours. Aka : black plague. It killed about 1/3 of Edinburgh’s population. The epicenter of the plague

was quarantined. NO entrance or exit from this alleyway of homes. An then it was bricked off. Roughly

500 people were “bricked” into their homes and died. With no contact with other humans, officials hoped

to prevent the spread of this deadly disease. About a year later, the remains of these people were removed

by two brothers, who were butchers by trade.

It was 40 years before other people moved back into this close (an alley enclosure with five stories of

apartments). That was in 1685. Many years later, this alley-street was torn down and we were shown the

newer buildings on top of it

For the high-light of this tour, our group descended some very narrow and steep steps until we were about

3 levels below street level. We were heading down into the vaults. Damp, dark and dingy. Horrible work-

ing conditions for shoe-makers, artisans , etc. Even had whiskey taverns down there. In the 1700’s, this

area was the perfect half-way point between the Edinburgh Medical School and the two cemeteries. Grave

robbers would “store” the newly unearthed bodies here at night. Then onto the Med. School for research.

No questions asked.

A BBC program on the paranormal in the late 1990’s showed that this underground vault had the 3 most

active “ghost sites” in all of the U.K. Reports by people through the years of rushing wind, lights and

flickering torches, strong smells of alcohol, sensations of heat, being burned by non-existent fireplaces.

Rather interesting. Could it be???
Finally went to the White Horse Pub, built in 1790. Our little group was served drinks and heard more

eerie ghost tales and stories. A fascinating history.

As we headed back to our B & B, we found a baked potato bar called Tempting Tatties. About 20

different stuffings for your potato, from cheese to tuna to haggis.

Walked a few blocks to home, arriving at 10:10. In bed by 10:30. Such a long day, but very

enjoyable. I love this city


JUNE 15, 2005 WEDNESDAY

Up at 6:45. Had another wonderful breakfast: 4 types of oat-cakes (fast becoming my favorite), chocolate

pastries, cereal bars and more delicious hot tea.

Paid my 240 Br. Pounds for 3 nights at our B &B. And then off to catch the 10:05 train to York. A few

stops such as Alnmouth , home of the Alnwick Castle, featured in Harry Potter movies. Train ride hugs

the coast along the North Sea for awhile. Nice to see a few light-houses again. Should be in York about

12:30. First destination will be the Jorvik Viking Centre.

There has been a Viking presence in York since the 10th century (around 954 A.D.) There was an intense

archeological dig in 1982, with over 40,000 artifacts recovered. Saw a section of a 30-foot long wooden

wall, from 970 A.D. Had a car take us “ back through time” to the year 975. The workers at this center

wore Viking era clothing. Several exhibits, including many that were “hands-on”.

Bought some steak-pie and other pastries then went to Starbucks Coffee and enjoyed a leisurely lunch.

Then embarked on a York Dungeon Tour. Many highlights of torture, the plague, and just horrible poverty

conditions for the people in their day-to-day wretched living.

Wandered around for several hours. Shopped at an open-air market. Thoroughly captivated by “The

Shambles”. This is one of the finest medieval streets in Europe, with an extraordinarily narrow street.

Seemed to be wide enough for just one ox cart. On the second floor, people from opposite sides of the

street could lean out their windows and shake hands. Wow!

Stopped for petit-fours at Betty’s Tea Room. Meandered our way down to Clifford’s Castle Tower, which

was built in 1150. Walked by the banks of the Ouse River. Then crossed over the Micklegate Bridge.

Seems like we saw several hundred of England’s finest dressed people who were in town for the Ascot

Races. Nobility? They sure thought so. Tuxedos and top hats for the gentlemen. And every woman was

wearing the finest hat to be found in the U.K. What a gala celebration. These people are in love with their

horse racing. Looks like they take themselves too seriously. But what would this boy in shorts, tee-shirt

and sneakers know? Hey, I’m a tourist on vacation.

Catch an 8p.m. northbound train. Should be in Edinburgh’s Waverly Station about 10:30. It shall be

our third and final night in Scotland’s capitol city.


JUNE 16, 2005 THURSDAY

Really needed to sleep late today. Got up around 9:15 and feasted on another hearty breakfast. Packed all

the luggage and said our good-byes to Ann. What a swell hostess. Walked about 5 blocks to the train

station. Shared French fries and a Pepsi until we departed around 1:30.

Climbed in elevation as we headed UP into the Highlands. Passing through Perth and Pitlochry, the

scenery and topography changed. Even saw a small patch of snow on one of the hilltops. Misty at higher

elevations. Heavy fog and intermittent rain. But mainly it was cloudy.

Saw a deer, several rabbits (Bethany counted 58), 5 dogs, 5 cats and 1 hawk. Plus the usual assortment

of sheep, cows, horses and finally the Highland Cattle. Reddish caramel color with longhorns and soft

pink noses.

Took the 5:43 train from Inverness to Thurso on the northern coast. Got off at Dingwall at 6:20. Ready

to find our Castle-Hotel. Seems like the Mansfield Castle Hotel is not in the Dingwall area after all. Info

department at the train station is closed. I used the phone at the Mallard Tavern. We needed to continue on

the train into Tain. Last train for the evening is gone. Must wait about 90 minutes for the next bus. Not what

we had planned.

While Janet and Bethany waited, I walked up to the Hector MacDonald Monument at the town’s highest

cemetery. Very scenic view of the town below. We boarded the 8:02 bus from Dingwall and it sure made a

lot of stops. Took some pictures of the Firth of Cromarty. Borrowed a cell phone from one of the bus

passengers. I called Mansfield Castle to confirm our arrival around 9:30 p.m. Very kind of the Aberdeen

University student to lend me her phone. In Tain, we stopped at the foot of a hill, about 150 yards from the

Mansfield Castle!!! As we rolled the luggage toward the huge front doors, a young man in a plaid kilt

came to help us.

Had sandwiches and colas as we settled into our 180 year old castle. Plenty of light outside at 11 p.m.

Enjoy a midnight night-cap of sherry. Anxious to explore. In bed about 12:15.


JUNE 17, 2005 FRIDAY

Eighteen years since Janet and I had stayed in a castle (Oberwesel, Germany). What a treat! And such

a bright, sun-shiny day. Went downstairs to the dining room for a continental breakfast. There was milk

and cereal, toast, jam, jellies, marmalade, fresh fruit and hot tea.

Walked down hill several blocks through the heart of the old city. Tain was the first Royal Burrough

of Scotland, chartered in 1066. At 58 degrees latitude, it is the farthest north we have ever journeyed.

Got the train to Inverness. Passed several oil platforms in the Firth of Cromarty. Arrived in Inverness

about 10:30. Just four blocks away, we toured the Inverness Castle. Another interactive tour. We were

“military recruits” and had just enlisted in King George’s army in 1745. Our mission was to put down

the Jacobite Rebellion. The Scottish Highlanders were fighting to put James VI, son of Mary, Queen of

Scots, on the throne. The tour guide described day-to-day life as we entered different areas of the castle.

Originally built in the 12th century, then added onto many times.

Across the street we enjoyed a hot lunch at the Castle Restaurant. I had the fish and chips, which was

fried haddock and French fries. Malt vinegar is the condiment on our table, not ketchup. Janet had a

shepherds pie and Bethany was glad to see chicken nuggets.

Purchased three tickets and awaited the 1:30 coach (bus). We are going on the Loch Ness guided tour.

Take a 30 minute bus ride on the northern side of the loch (lake). Our group of 10 boards the boat. We have

a 30 minute cruise on the loch (looking for Nessie). No Loch Ness Monster sighting today.

The boat lets us off at the ruins of the Urquhart Castle. Such a beautiful setting. Awesome scenery.

Built in the 1300s. The interpretive center featured many artifacts from years long ago. Very impressive.

After 3 & ½ hours, the Loch Ness tour returned us at 5:00 to the Inverness Castle. We catch the 5:43

train to Tain. Arrive back at our Castle hotel around 7:00. Freshen up a wee bit. And then it’s time to

eat in the dining hall of Mansfield Castle. Bethany looked so grown up!

Seared North Sea bass for the adults and our young one had free range chicken. Fresh steamed veggies:

broccoli, cauliflower, and new potatoes. Plenty of hot tea. We had checked out the menu 6 weeks earlier

on the internet. Had already decided what our dessert would be. Cream boule for Janet, dark chocolate

ice cream for Bethany and I had banana and marmalade bread & butter pudding with vanilla. Scrumptious.


JUNE 18, 2005 SATURDAY

Up at 6 for an early shower. Another long day ahead of us. Bethany **needs** her breakfast served to

her in bed. Aren’t we just the V.I.P. of the castle?

Check out of the castle around 9. We head down hill about 6 blocks to the train station. Two cars of the

nicest local people offer us a lift to the station. So thoughtful!

Catch the 9:30 train to Dingwall. Then after another hour wait, we load onto another train. The Northern

Line goes through the Highlands. Gorgeous scenery!!! Seven stops in small towns along the way. I liked

reading the Gaelic spelling, underneath the English spelling of these little whistle-stop towns.

A few examples : Dingwall is Inbhirpheofharain, Garve is Gairbh, Achnasheen is Achadh na sine,

Strathcarron is Strath Carrann, and Plockton is Ploc Loch Aillse.

The end of the ride : Kyle of Lochalsh. And from the train station, we can see 2-3 miles across and

view Kyleakin on the Isle of Skye. Board a bus that goes across the newly opened Skye Bridge. Very

close by is the Ceol-na-Mara Bed and Breakfast. Ceol-na-Mara is translated from the Gaelic which

means “Music of the Sea”. A small but cute room awaits us up a narrow, winding staircase. Open the

window ( no screens ) and see how close we are to the water.

After unloading our 4 suitcases, we bus across the Skye Bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh again. Enjoy a nice

lunch and buy some boat-tour tickets for Sunday. Plus, we have to purchase some souvenirs.

Board a city links bus at 4:10 and travel about 9 miles south to Dornie. Time to visit the Eileen Dornan

Castle. Settled by the Norse 1000 years ago. Cross over a stone bridge and start touring. The inside rooms

of the castle are in a state of renovation and repair. Some are open to the public. We wandered in and

around for about 3 hours. Just soaking in 10 centuries of history. What a vacation!

Two men from the Dutch Army were visiting and had brought their bag-pipes with them. They slowly

walked around the island ( only 3 acres), across the stone-bridge and the parking lot. Seemed such a

fitting tribute to the MacDonald clan to play those bag-pipes. And those two men were very good. So nice!


Back to Kyle of Lochalsh around 9 p.m. Then catch another bus to Kyleakin. Janet and Bethany get into

bed about 10, but there is just too much light outside for me. Thought this might be my only chance to hike

to the ruins of the Castle Maol. And what an adventurous hike it becomes. The end of or street ( South

Obbe ) is only about 6 houses away. Then the path winds and narrows and twists and turns and sends you

over and down many rocks and stones and boulders! One stretch is through the water. Fortunately it was

low-tide and I could walk on the rocks and sea-kelp. Finally made it about 10:30 p.m. and took 3 or 4

pictures. Only two sections left. Officially: castle ruins. Archeological work done several years ago found

a leather bag (Viking?) and 12 gold coins. In bed by 11 p.m. and the two girls were fast asleep.


JUNE 19, 2005 SUNDAY

Happy Father’s Day! Breakfast was served at 8:30 : scrambled eggs, ham, tomatoes, toast, milk and cereal

hot tea and coffee. We check out, but can leave our luggage there as we prepare for another tour.

Bus it to Kyle of Lochalsh and board our Seaprobe Atlantis. It is a glass-bottomed boat and we explore

the local islands. Refuges for birds and we get to sea five seals!! What a thrill. Then we’re taken to the

sight of a World War II shipwreck, the HMS Napier. It served as a 500-foot long mine-layer until it was

sunk in 1940. Our 11 a.m. boat ride reaches the shipwreck at low-tide and we can see the top of it. With

the explosion, parts of the ship were blown onto land, 1/3 of a mile away, where it remains after 65 years.

Must have seen ten thousand jelly fish, probably more. Viewed the underwater vegetation, mainly the

sea lettuce and kelp. Also see starfish, sea urchins, and other small fishes. Except for the cold rain, it was

VERY ENJOYABLE.

Back across the bridge to the Isle of Skye once more. Gathered our luggage and met the private taxi driver

Alister at 1 p.m. in front of the youth hostel. Took us about 40 minutes to arrive in the small town of

Armadale. Really wished we had time to visit the Clan of MacDonald Museum. Used our prepaid phone

card to call the Walters’ in Mobile. Janet wanted to talk to her dad on Father’s Day.

The ferry boat ride from Armadale to Mallaig took just 26 minutes. We rode on the Coir’ Uisg’ which

is part of the Calmac Ferry Line. Have lunch (sandwiches) at The Tea Garden in Mallaig and watch the

clocks carefully. The LAST train to Glasgow leaves at 4:10. We made it. Have a five hour train ride ahead

of us, through the mountains and lake districts. More Highland cows, a few waterfalls, countless ponds and
lakes. Very beautiful countryside.

Arrive in Glasgow at 9:27. The sun has just set. Which means 2 or 3 more hours of light outside. Supper

at the Burger King in the Queen Street train station. Then walk about 5 blocks to the Quality Central Hotel.

A luxury hotel in it’s time, built in the heyday of the Victorian period. Have a message at the check-in desk
to call Louise. She was one of the three Scottish Dental students I worked with last summer on the

Methodist missionary trip to Costa Rica. We had a pleasant chat, talking of the previous weeks travels
through Scotland. Then I called and left a message for Emily. Caroline (Caz) had just moved back to

to Ireland, following graduation. Maybe we’ll see each other when we make a return trip.

Looking out the windows from our 16-foot tall room, there was lots of walking and activity on the city

streets below. Went down a few flights of stairs to the bar. The song being played was “I Would Walk 500

Miles”. Seemed oh, so appropriate. Purchased a jigger of Scottish whiskey. First time I had done that in

50 years. I can now say I have had a taste; but don’t think I’ll need to do that again. Seemed to have a

musty, oaken flavor. Just can’t see what the attraction is. Finally in bed at midnight. A long, long day on

our journey.


JUNE 20, 2005 MONDAY

Slept until 8 this morning. After checking out, went right next door to the train station. Starbucks coffee,

fruit and oatmeal cookies and oat-cakes for breakfast. Only waited about 12 minutes, then boarded the

11:00 train for Carlisle. Should arrive about 12:30.

We took the coastal route of the Northern Train lines. Several stops along the way. Finally arrived in

Whitehaven. A harbor city of 25,000 people. Lots of history. A Roman fort was built here in A.D. 128,

next to what is now a church. The first church built on that sight occurred in the 11th century. The “current”

Church on the sight, Moresby, was built in 1822.

Whitehaven was the birthplace of John Paul Jones, founder of the American Navy. Took a taxi a few

miles out of town to the Glenlea House Hotel. What a MAGNIFICIENT view of the Firth of Solway.

Stunningly beautiful! Our second floor room had a balcony.

Decided to hike through the English countryside. Gently rolling hills, farmland, cattle and sheep grazing,

small streets. Awesome scenery. Part of our walk was on the C2C Walking Trail. After two hours, we must

have walked 8 or 9 miles. Vibrant green meadows. So very pretty.

Back at the room for a few minutes to freshen up. Took a 10-15 minute stroll through the country

again to the Travelers Inn and Brewsters Pub and Restaurant. Were served sausage and mash in

Yorkshire pudding, beef in Yorkshire pudding, and chicken nuggets.

From our balcony, we watched the brightest full moon rise, as we also gazed out at the open water.

Could see the Isle of Man, which is half-way across the firth to Ireland. From my bed, I could see the

full moon. Mesmerizing! Had to close the curtains at 11 p.m. or I might not have been able to sleep.


JUNE 21, 2005 TUESDAY

English country breakfast at 7:30. Hot tea, toast, eggs, ham (bacon), tomatoes and black pudding.

Took another train at 9:07 north to Carlisle. Snapped a few pictures of the Carlisle Castle, which is

now used for government offices. Decided on a taxi ride to Birdoswald. Sight of an ancient Roman fort

along Hadrian’s Wall. Emporer Hadrian had ordered a 16 foot tall stone wall to run from coast to coast

in northern England. It was 77 miles long. Designed to keep out the barbarians from Scotland.

Listened to the audio-visual presentation at the Visitors Centre. Remains of the old fort were out back.

Construction began in 122 A.D. And there are some stretches of the original wall which are 8 feet tall.

But most of the wall is just a few feet high now, if any is left. Seems like farmhouses and other buildings

in this area utilized these easily accessible stones. After a couple of hundred years of looting the wall,

not much of the original Hadrian’s Wall is left today. Designated a U.N. World Heritage Site in 1987.

After sandwiches and celery-carrot soup for lunch, we boarded the bus back to Carlisle. Passed

through the small village of Brampton and viewed the Lanercost Priory. Built in 1166, part of the original

structure remains. There is also a cemetery on the property.

A 20 minute train ride took us to Maryport. We walked about 6 blocks through town, passing the

Millenium Park and Church before we reached the harbor. Had a few hours to visit the aquarium.

Enjoyed the “hands on” display where we could gently touch the starfish and sea anemone. Also, in the

large pool where there were small sharks and large fish, we could touch the leathery sting-rays. Fun!

Topped off this little outing with some ice cream and went next door to the public playground.

Bethany liked the zip-line the most.
Asked one of the local guys directions to the train station. A few minutes later, he and his friend

offered us a ride to the station. Saved us quite a few steps. Very nice people around here.

Getting back to Parten Station at Whitehaven, we walked one mile to the Brewster’s Pub and

Restaurant again. A leg of lamb for Janet, I had Scottish highland minced beef pie and Bethany tried

pasta with tomato sauce. Walked through our favorite countryside trail, passed the cattle and a little

wooden bridge and arrived back at the Glenlea House after 15-20 minutes.

About 9:30p.m., with lots of light outside , I walked ¾ mile to the old Moresby Church. With a

church on this sight since the 11th century, the present one was built in 1822. This seven acre area had

once been the westernmost fort of the Roman Empire. Though built in 128 A.D., the only thing left

standing from that period of time is a large stone arch.

There are several hundred graves at the cemetery behind the church. The oldest marker I saw read:

September 17, 1663 William the father and Thomas the son Sirnamed Brittons lies under this stone

Seamen Both And in one ship together This day lost, next found and brought hither.

Must have counted 60 headstones that had fallen and were lined up in a row. These were all leaning

against the inside stone fence which surrounds the church. Found a 1724 stone marker and lots from the

1800s. Newest grave was marked February 2004. At least a dozen marble markers had fallen over and were

just left there, face down on the ground. Many were leaning and will fall “soon”. So disheartening to see

this old cemetery in such a neglected condition. Back to the room about 10:45 and the girls were asleep.


JUNE 22, 2005 WEDNESDAY

Slept a little later today : 7:30. Had another traditional English breakfast about 8:30. Our taxi arrived at

10:15 and within ten minutes, we were at the railroad station. Took a one hour train ride to Carlisle. After

lunch we connected for the 1:24 train to Cheltenham. Should last about 3 and ½ hours. Then dash over the

ramp way and are the last to board the 7 minute ride to Tewkesbury.

Made it to Tewkesbury about 5:15. Caught the 5:23 bus into town. So many half-timbered buildings in

this city. Strolled along the old medieval streets about three blocks until we arrived at our 500 year old

cottage! How quaint. How small. How cute! Downstairs was only 9 x 16 feet with a fireplace. Steep and

curving steps up to the larger second floor (10 x 18 feet). There are many old photographs from this area

posted on the wall. One picture was from this residency, #9 Millbank. It showed old Mrs. Gore and her

nine children. Don’t see how that many people could live in such a small cottage.

Walked 1 and ½ blocks to the Bell Hotel Restaurant. Janet wanted to try the mussels in wine sauce.

I tried something different too: grilled pork chop with squeak and bubble and apple gravy. Bethany

attacked a potato jacket with baked beans and cheese.

Slowly walked the main city streets, overwhelmed at the “oldness” of Tewkesbury. This was the sight

of the 1471 Battle, part of the Wars of the Roses. Enjoyed walking down the tiny brick covered alleys.

One led to the Old Baptist Chapel, founded in 1665. There was a cemetery behind it. Many people named

Shakespeare are buried here. Most graves dated from 1600s - 1800s. Very neglected though. What a

shame. So overgrown with ivy and weeds.

Returned to the room and settled in. Got the windows adjusted. Went outside about 11:15 and met some

of the new neighbors. A very pleasant evening indeed. In bed at 11:30.


JUNE 23, 2005 THURSDAY

Woke up around 9 a.m. Walked a few blocks into town and bought some fresh pastries for breakfast.

Black currant pie, caramel & chocolate crunchy, a Belgian fruit roll, and a couple of chocolate chip crisps.

At 12:30 we boarded the Kingfisher Ferry, across the street from our door. Leisurely boat ride on the

River Avon. Cruising speed was 4 miles / hour. Slow and gentle ride past ducks, swans and a heron. Our

destination was the tiny community of Twyning. At the Fleet Inn Restaurant , we enjoyed another tasty

lunch: chicken teddy bears, steak and ale pie, and codfish. Wonderful view of the River Avon as we had

lunch out on the terrace. Then another leisurely boat ride back to almost our front door step.

About 4 p.m. we walked two blocks to the 12th century Tewkesbury Abbey. 900 years old with massive

columns, built by the Normans. The stained glass windows were magnificent, some dating back to the

1300s. And the Milton pipe organ is a mere 300 years old.

We listened to the boys choir , as they practiced at 4:30. They all wore black robes which had a standup

white collar. What voices!

Surprised to see so many markers on the floor. There are dozens of people who are buried “inside” the

church. I’m told this was common for Catholics in the 1500’s - 1700s. What an awesome place!!!

Back at our tiny little cottage to freshen up. Then up to the restaurant at the Bell Hotel again. This

half-timbered design hotel was built in the 1600s. Spaghetti carabona, turkey & cole-slaw ciabati and

another potato jacket with baked beans and cheese. Lots of iced water tonight. Topped it off with a

chocolate torte and a creamy bread & butter pudding. Yum.

Bethany and I crossed over the foot bridge at the Abbey Mill and walked down one of the footpaths.

Some boys were fishing. Earlier this afternoon, children had been swimming in this spot. Ducks were busy

searching for supper. Watched the water flow over the small dam at the mill sight. Sunset over the large

meadow behind us at 9:30.

The owners of our cottage, Bill and Dawn Hunt, live right next door. They invited us to come over to

their terrace for a night-cap and to get acquainted with us. Very pleasant.


JUNE 24, 2005 FRIDAY

Set the alarm for 6 a.m. Another moving out day. The cottage owner, Dawn, picked us up at 8:15 and

drove us to the Ashchurch Train Station (two miles away). At 8:52 we took an 8 minute ride to Cheltenham.

At 9:12, took the next train to Birmingham. Then another train to Shrewsbury. Our 12:20 bus to Whitchurch

broke down. So we thought it was time for a little lunch. The restaurant was inside the Charles Darwin

shopping mall, next to the bus terminal. Two codfish dinners and a ham sandwich - childrens meal.

The 2:00 bus was on time! Lots of twisty, narrow and winding country roads before we had gone our 12

miles. We were let off the bus about 3 p.m. near Weston-under-Redcastle. Walked, slowly, uphill until we

found some houses and could make a phone call. Sylvia picked us up a few minutes later. We then entered

The Citadel, a castle home which was built in 1820. Stunningly elegant furnishings! 200 year old antique

furniture, two huge grandfather clocks, a giant tapestry. Impeccable décor.

We are staying in the west wing of the castle for two nights. There was a 10-foot tall canopy of pink and

green over our bed, in the master bedroom. Bethany had a small room to herself, which included a fire-

place. The bathroom was very close by, and it was fancy.

Walked by myself about 15 minutes to the local Hawkstone Golf Club for a takeout from their facility.

Three sandwiches for supper: tuna fish with whole kernel corn, sliced ham and dill pickles, and turkey

with cranberry / apricot sauce.

Just relaxed, walked around the castle taking pictures of the gardens, read some, caught up on my travel

diary, and soaked in the experience of an English castle. In bed by 10.


JUNE 25, 2005 SATURDAY

Awoke from our first night in an English castle in the county Shropshire, Weston-under-Redcastle about

7:45. Breakfast included fresh fruit, raspberry preserves, orange marmalade, toast, hot tea, coffee, orange

juice, fried eggs, ham and tomatoes. Ready to go see Hawkstone Park.

After arriving at Hawkstone, Bethany is not feeling too perky. So Janet takes her back to our room. I

spend the next three hours exploring this most fascinating place. This rocky, romantic landscape was

developed in the 18th century around the medieval RedCastle in Weston, in the county of Shropshire.

It was moderately similar to Rock City in Tennessee.

Highlights of Hawkstone included the RedCastle Tower, caves, grottos where King Arthur hid, clefts,

the rhododendron forest, a couple of versions of “Fat Mans Squeeze”. There is a monument to Sir Rowland

Hill, erected in 1795. The Hill family had owned this property for 340 years. Approximately 110 feet high,

there are 150 steps up a narrow staircase to reach the platform. The viewing platform is at the base of the

Hill statue. The scenery up here is stunning. A 360 degree vista of the English countryside. At this vantage

point, you can see 12 counties and Wales. Awesome!!!

I brought Bethany back here a few hours later. We thoroughly enjoyed the RedCastle tower, the rhodo-

dendron forest and were the last two people of the day to climb the monument. Hiked on back to the

visitors center and had to buy several books and souvenirs.

Back at The Citadel castle, Janet was ready for some hot food (no sandwiches). So we walked 10-15

minutes past lettuce fields, cow pastures, fields of hay, stocks (for punishment) by the church and

cemetery and on to the golf course restaurant. Steakburger, pasta bake, and stuffed mushrooms. Watched

some of the Wimbledon tennis action on the television while eating supper.

Bethany made friends with a tabby cat in the parking lot. 15 minutes later we were ’home’ again. Time

to explore the flower gardens at The Citadel. Four acres to wander and stroll through. I called the cows in

the nearby field. Okay, it was more of a moo sound. And surprisingly, they came running to us at the stone

fence. Took a cute picture of 14 of them. Watched the red sun set and we were in bed by 11.

JUNE 26, 2005 SUNDAY

Up about 6:15 and prepare to leave. Get it all together before going downstairs for breakfast. I leaf through

the guest book which is in the entranceway. Dating back to 1999, the Cobbs are the first family from

Alabama to stay here! However, this has been open to guests for 22 years, so we’ll never know if indeed

any other Alabamians have vacationed here at The Citadel.

Taxi arrives at 9:45 sharp, right on time. Have a 12 mile ride back to Shrewsbury. We board the 10:28

train to Wolverhampton. Arrive at 11:05 then catch the 11:12 train through Birmingham and several stops

until we finally reach London about 2:20.

Secured a taxi ride to the Mentone Hotel. Rest a little as we leaf through brochures, pamphlets and city

maps. Walk about 5 or 6 blocks to the “underground subway”. The locals call it “the tube”. Ride beneath

the city and the River Thames to the Waterloo Station.

On the shores of the south bank of the river is the London Eye. It is the world’s largest ferris wheel. Cost

$60 for the 3 of us. The most spectacular views of London. There are 32 individual cars, each holding

up to 25 people. It is 450 feet tall and was built for the millennium.

Afterwards, we walked past Big Ben, Parliament Square, the Jewel Tower, Westminster Abbey, and

tons of statues before returning to the Euston Street underground station.

Find an Italian restaurant for supper a little before 10 p.m. Buffet: lamb and turkey, etc. plus

spaghetti. Very good, especially the dessert. Then returned to our hotel by taxi. Another very long day.


JUNE 27, 2005 MONDAY

Rise and shine at 8 a.m. Have breakfast downstairs: fried eggs, ham and sausage, hot tea and toast,

orange juice, yogurt, grapefruit and tangerines. Ready for another full day.

Walk 6 blocks to the Euston Street Underground Station. Take the tube to the Waterloo Station.

Purchase tickets for the Big Bus Tour. Yes, it is the famous double-decker open air bus. And we are on

top. Have a wonderfully guided two hour tour of the center of London. Two-, three-, and four-hundred

year old buildings everywhere! Such awesome architectural designs. Two thousand years of history

here. Stunning!!

After a lunch of two pizzas and a chicken-mushroom pie, we were back at it again. This time, we take

a river boat cruise on the Thames River. Pointed out to us London’s first bridge, the London Tower

Bridge, the London Bridge, this landmark, etc. It was fun and very interesting.

Took another underground trip; this time to Hyde Park Station. It will be our only chance to see

Buckingham Palace. And the Queen of England is IN today. The queen’s flag flies over whichever

palace she chooses to stay in. A few police were posted at the gate and four guards stood at the entrance

to the palace. With their bright red jackets, they were quite a sight under the two foot tall bear-skin caps.

A huge statue in front of the Buckingham Palace, the memorial to Queen Victoria. 82 feet high, this

large statue of Victoria is surrounded by the Angel of Justice, the Angel of Truth, and Charity. It sits

on white marble and is surrounded by a shallow pool of water. Then we walk a little ways to the Princess

Diana Memorial Walk trail. Back through Green Park, then Hyde Park. Then another subway ride to

Euston Street. Picked up more sandwiches and fruit for supper. After eating, we start to load our suitcases.

Time to start preparations for the trip back to Alabama.


JUNE 28, 2005 TUESDAY

Our last full day in London. Have an early breakfast today, about 8:00. Buy another all day family pass

for the subway. Take the tube to the London Tower Station. We join a 50-minute guided tour of the

medieval era fortress. The Yeoman, known as Beefeaters, conduct the tours as well as guard the fortress.

Learn a lot of history about the place: hangings, prisoners, kidnappings, murders, beheadings, torture, the

chapel, towers, etc. Fascinating to be here amongst so much history.

And then we get in line to see the Royal Jewels. There are swords, crowns, sepulchers, jewels, diamonds,

gold plates and more priceless jewels. Exquisite! Priceless! After several hours here, we take a lunch break.

Then take another tube ride. Have our sights set on the British Museum. This has been free to the public

since 1753. There is an extraordinary exhibition on Egyptian mummies. There is a film presentation

and we use 3-D glasses. Though 3500 years old, this mummy named Nesperennub, was purchased from

Egyptians, by the British Museum, in 1899.

Did not have a lot of time, but saw treasures of Egypt (lots of mummy stuff), Mesopotamia and the near

Middle East. Irreplaceable objects and artifacts. Bethany seems mesmerized in some of the rooms. Just

overwhelming, the amount of treasures on display.

Take the underground back near home and buy more sandwiches for supper. Finish packing and get

in bed by 9:30. It will be an early wakeup call tomorrow.


JUNE 29, 2005 WEDNESDAY

Alarm clock and wakeup call at 5:30 a.m. That would be 11:30 p.m. on Tuesday night in Alabama.

That’s EARLY folks.

Have a taxi pick us up at 7 a.m. and take us to the Euston Street subway. Buy one-way tickets to

the Victoria Station. And finally take a 45-minute train ride to London’s Gatwick Airport. Take a

monorail ride around to the North Terminal. Make our way to international departures. And at last

we find Delta.

We are questioned by security and finally make it to the check-in counter. “What are you in this line

for? These planes go to Atlanta. The flight to Cincinnati has finished its check-in. I will see if they will

open for you?” Wow! Thought our family would be left behind. Fortunately, we were let in and headed

to Gate 49. Purchased some muffins and coffee and water from Starbucks for a quick breakfast. Our

10:15 a.m. flight was delayed by 30 minutes. I’m down to my last 3 British pounds as we board the plane.

Have an 8 hour and 18 minute trip on this plane today. The screen shows us that we have 3975 miles

until we reach our destination. There are three movies on this flight. Have another tasty airplane

meal (marinated chicken). Get caught up on the travel journal.

Eight long hours and we arrive at the Greater Cincinnati Airport. It is actually located in Kentucky,

three miles south of the Ohio River. Find a payphone and call Mobile. Bethany tells Grandma that we

will be home soon.

Land in Mobile about 4:30. Pleased that 3 of our suitcases made the trip with us. The one filled with

dirty clothes didn’t make this flight. So, make a claim in the baggage claim center. The airport shuttle

bus is ready for us at 5 p.m. Home sweet home. Now to make a quick trip to the kennels. Three dogs and

two cats are more than anxious to get home too.

10:15 that night, we receive a call from the airport. Our last piece of luggage just arrived from Cincinnati.

They will deliver it tomorrow. Time for bed. What a trip! Life is good!

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